Hello all,

I've got a dead EBoost2 solenoid on my hands and I don't want to pay the higher price for a turbosmart relabeled standard 3 port solenoid. However, I'm just not sure if I've found the right part on Grainger that's a direct replacement for the Turbosmart part number.

Can someone with experience with this exact problem give me any advice here?

Turbosmart part:
http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?id=41
(scroll down to the TS-0301-3003 item)

What I think is the proper Grainger item for half price: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ING...J52?Pid=search

Is this a drop-in replacement for the turbosmart part?

If I could just see the other side of the solenoid (so I could see the other two ports), then I'm pretty sure I'd know!

Thanks for any insight you can give!

 

I have a brand new unopened never used 3port solenoid that I got with my Eboost2 that ill sell you for 75$shipped. Im using 4port solenoids with my setup.

 

lnterested in the feedback on this piece as well...if it is a comparable replacement I will buy one as a spare since the heat from the engine compartment has taken a toll on mine.

 

Snyper, thanks for the offer but for $38 bucks from Grainger... It's a no-brainer....

TTZ06vet,

I'll let you know Tuesday if this was a direct replacement. (I ordered one to see)

 

Thanks!

 

Just reporting back to anyone interested that may do a search in the future... The solenoid above *is* a direct replacement for the EBoost2 solenoid!

The physical port configuration is different (2 on one-side and 1 on the other as opposed to one on each side of the eboost2 solenoid (except the back side has no ports on eboost2 solenoid)) but this is no problem at all. It still mechanically functions the same! Good to know if ya need to save a few bucks in case your solenoid(s) ever fail!

 

Ed thanks for taking the time to verify this for us.

Off topic: a lot of people have PM'd me in the past about where my solenoids are mounted so I am going to post a pic in this thread to make it easier for people when they search. No heat issues in this location and everything is tucked in neat and tidy

 

Ed...how did you know your solenoid was bad? Did it stop working completely or just produce less boost?

 

The valve that is sold by Turbosmart for the EB2 is made by MAC. That's not the same valve but should work I guess. I've never used anything other than the MAC valves.

 

Taylor,

The solenoid I mention *definitely* works. Thanks for letting me know that MAC makes the actual EBoost solenoid! That's great info for this thread.

TTZ06 vette,

Yes, my boost was all over the place - that's how I knew. (that and I tested the actual solenoid )

 

put this in file, good thread

 

Good Info Ed.Too bad they are not available here in Canada.

 

Hi, I've a t3 Garrett 50trim 48ar hot/42ar cold on a stock Honda Accord auto tran (with jdm f22b swap). For boost control, I'll be using the eboost 2 Controller, Synapse 44mm (with small valve seat and lighter spring) and synapse bov (recirculated).

I want to start with 4 psi and gradually go upto 5 to 6 psi. 7 psi will be the cutoff. Is this do-able with the small valve seat (with the copper seal) and lighter spring, if my exhaust is producing very little back pressure and the log manifold's wastegate port is centered to allow for even exhaust port gas escape?

I see that in the synapse instructions where it says to connect the wg to a selenoid it mentions to use only port C. However, for lowest psi (4psi) one must use Port C & D which produces the lowest boost pressure (when not using the selenoid). Can I tee both C and D to port 2
of the selenoid or must I under all conditions connect selenoid only to port C (and leave A,B and D vented to atmosphere)?

I don't have the large valve seat or the heavier spring (did not come with the wg). Is it possible to achive 4 psi with the smaller valve seat? What valve seat/spring (blue or green) do you recommend that I use for my low boost application?

Also, for the low boost that I'm running, will using the Turbomatic e-boost 2 (sorry, I'm am assuming you're familiar with eboost 2) be of any benefit. Of cause, I'm not going to be doing boost by gear, but will add e-boost make for a safer and more accurate boost contol setup (despite the low psi requirements)?

 

despat. set your wastegate at 4 psi and forget about the eboost 2 until you're ready to make more power.

I don't know enough about your valve seating to advise you. I'm sorry. Good luck and get ready to replace a transmission!

 

despat I replied to both your PM's in detail. Good luck

 

Thanks for the encouragement and warnings... You're right about me been (stubbornly) bent upon using it on my puney setup. I know it's a crazy way to go about with all the headache of wiring and selenoids and settings, and I almost went for the hallman Rx, but got eboost2 instead. I just want to be safe and not overboost.

I have another question, but first let me introduce to you my setup:

Turbocharging my HOnda Oddy 97 jdm f22b

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



I've managed to buy all the parts and wanted to run this by some of you experts (incase i forgot something or need to change something).

My Honda oddy 97 recently underwent a swap (jdm f22b sohc 2.2). No oil leaks or problems (check engine lights) of any sort. Car run with a chipped p75(chrome).

I'm planning on boosting from 5 to 7 (maybe just 5 to be safe)? Is that being too safe (cause I've seen some people on stock to 9-10).

Already installed EGT, BOOST, OIL PSI and WIDEBAND LM1, water temp guage, RPM guage

Now for the parts i have



Turbo basemap (chip I got burned from a guy (naly) on ebay)
T3 Garrett 50trim 48.ar hot/42 cold
STI Log manifold (with wastegate port in center)
Johnney Racer IC (2.5" x 5" x 35") already installed
Wastegate dump pipe and elbow
Synapse Synchronic 44mm (with smaller 40mm valve seat)
Synapse BOV
Eboost2 EBC
B&M Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator and Guage
Walbro 255
350cc brown top Injectors


Exhaust (in order from front):
2.5" downpipe with 5 bolt flange
2.5" 6" long flex pipe
6" piece of pipe with O2 bung and wb bung
Cherrybomb turbo muffler 2.5 to 2.5" (replace cat)
Cherrybomb Vortex 3" in/3"out Muffer
Downpipe to the end.

I've got a chip burner, laptop burner and oshrich cable (for turning purposes)

Just want some advice and opinions on this setup. I don't want to go fmu or synapse missing ling way (not safe, though practical according to my mechanic).

pic:

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/...110904_001.jpg

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/...110904_005.jpg

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/...110904_002.jpg

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/...0904_004-1.jpg

http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/...110904_003.jpg





Question;

Does it help if the jpipe (dump pipe) is made so that it gets fatter from the flange down. Currently, My j pipe (downpipe) is exactly a "J" even (1.5" and same as the wastegate port). Also, I could port the wastegate port on the log manifold.

Thanks