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Venting crankcase pressure?

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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 01:09 PM
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Default Venting crankcase pressure?

I have a ZR1 and when I push it hard it push some oil out of the rear main seal. I'm assuming crankcase pressure is really high. What's the proper way to vent the system? I have one catch can on the car going from valley cover to behind the tb.

Also does this mean the seal is completely shot?
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 01:14 PM
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What you can do is vent off the valve covers to get rid of the excess crank case. Get Ron and them to weld you a -10 OR -12 bung and run it to a vented catch can inside the fender.

Last edited by JMBLOWNWS6; Jul 8, 2013 at 01:16 PM.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 01:37 PM
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Use a catch can and have the the valve covers vent through catch can to between TB to air filter, at high RPM you should get a few pounds of vacuum there so you actually will get the engine sucking the crank case pressure out, through catch can is best to prevent sucking in oils.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 01:43 PM
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Run vented catchcans. I have a RX monster can now but once I get a chance will be swapping to dual vented cans. My friend her makes them so why not?
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 02:56 PM
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I had the same thing happen. I ran a -12 line off the valve cover to a vented moroso catch can and it went away, never had to replace the seal.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by turbotuner20v
I had the same thing happen. I ran a -12 line off the valve cover to a vented moroso catch can and it went away, never had to replace the seal.
I agree, just vent the valve covers... But a -10 or -12 is nuts. I've used -6 and -8 to 24psi using just the factory nipples on the valve covers in the past and its worked great.

People go overboard with the size fittings needed. For most those stock elbows will work just fine.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by breecher_7
I agree, just vent the valve covers... But a -10 or -12 is nuts. I've used -6 and -8 to 24psi using just the factory nipples on the valve covers in the past and its worked great.

People go overboard with the size fittings needed. For most those stock elbows will work just fine.
The original setup was holley valve covers w/ a nipple on each running to a small vented catch can. Then a line running from the valley to the intake manifold through a catch can w/ a check valve (what I would consider the typical boosted dual can setup). At 20psi it still pushed oil. I replaced the driver side valve cover oil cap w/ a -14 to -12 adapter and ran a push lock hose to the moroso can. It was the easiest way to do it, and only required 1 hose on one cover. Maybe could have gone smaller, but it was a good fit for repalacing the oil cap w/ an AN fitting.

And maybe it was -12 to -10... I can't remember. Whatever the moroso can fitting is.

Last edited by turbotuner20v; Jul 8, 2013 at 04:16 PM.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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Had to put a seal in mine because I didn't vent it soon enough
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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Vented oil cap also helps.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 06:00 PM
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not sure a traditional vented oil cap or line off the valve cover works the same on a dry sump car like the zr1 though... haven't messed w/ them too much.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Vented oil cap also helps.
The cap idea concerns me since I do road course the car and could potentially splash oil up that high.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:27 PM
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I vented both valve covers
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by whatcop?
I have a ZR1 and when I push it hard it push some oil out of the rear main seal. I'm assuming crankcase pressure is really high. What's the proper way to vent the system? I have one catch can on the car going from valley cover to behind the tb.

Also does this mean the seal is completely shot?
On a dry sump setup your suppose to vent to the sump and then run a catch can off the sump. This is what ARE had me do. I would run a -10 off both valve covers to the sump and then a catch can of the sump. ARE sells the sump tank alone that is about $850 and there is many benefits to that setup over stock.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by turbotuner20v
The original setup was holley valve covers w/ a nipple on each running to a small vented catch can. Then a line running from the valley to the intake manifold through a catch can w/ a check valve (what I would consider the typical boosted dual can setup). At 20psi it still pushed oil. I replaced the driver side valve cover oil cap w/ a -14 to -12 adapter and ran a push lock hose to the moroso can. It was the easiest way to do it, and only required 1 hose on one cover. Maybe could have gone smaller, but it was a good fit for repalacing the oil cap w/ an AN fitting.

And maybe it was -12 to -10... I can't remember. Whatever the moroso can fitting is.
My catch can, check valve is set up that way. Both valve covers vented to the dry sump tank. Only able to get 15lbs, But no issues with excessive pressure so far. I would of thought it would of showed up running the Mile, It's pretty tough on the engine.
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 09:56 AM
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you need a catch can that will relieve the positive pressure without affecting normal pcv operation.
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