Not yet on the 102. Long Michigan winter. Waiting for some Black Friday sales. Just bought the stage 1 E85 fuel system and flex fuel sensor. Gonna be a fun spring!

Nice! I’m looking forward to your results!

Hey Scott. Same to you, bud. We actually have a few bonafide Hot Rods down here, including a guy with a couple of restorodded ******, a C2 with a big block, a Chevelle or two, etc. A friend of mine brought out his immaculate ‘65 GT350 clone Mustang and made a few passes with it at our last event. There’s a ton of turboed and nitroused 4-bangers here though, and that’s typically what shows up on race day, mostly Mitsubishi Evos and Civics. A few of those are very quick and the Evos have the distinct advantage of AWD on our poor track surface. Some of those guys are running 45-50 psi AND nitrous! There’s also a bunch of newer model Mustangs. Theres also a ton of bikes down here, and some of those are very quick. I’m basically the only guy fielding a couple of Chevys, my car and my brother’s.
Here’s a link to a gallery of one of our events on our website. If you browse through those, you’ll get an idea of what kind of vehicles are racing down here.
https://caymanracing.ky/uprising/

Ordered all the stuff for the 8-rib conversion, so I’ll be doing that at some point in the near future. Got a 97.45” green belt and a slightly longer 98” Dayco belt from Rockauto, just in case the green one is too short. The 8-rib accessory pulley kit is on the way from IW. Meanwhile the 3.2” GripTech pulley, which was the first thing I ordered, has been returned to Z-Inducstries by UPS, because they forgot to put a friggin invoice on the packet for international shipment. Pure genius.
Since that’s delayed, I may just pull out the right front fender liner this weekend and swap out the Bosch H/X pump for the ZL1 pump.

Hey Mitch. Sorry to hear that you’re not doing so well. Glad to hear that you’re getting some rain. I’ve been following that thing called “news” on the wildfires over there (most of which is PC bullshit about who said what and why) and it is crazy. Sad too, since California is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been and the people are actually nice.
On the HX pump, I’m even thinking I might rig the BAP to it and see how that works. I’ve mentioned this before and I don’t know if anyone has tried it, but I figure it can’t hurt, unless the damn motor burns up, which isn’t a big deal for me. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, right? I’m sure that it will take a bit of fabricating to get the ZL1 pump to work too, since that’s shorter and fatter than the Bosch.
I’m pretty sure that a flex fuel install and the requisite injector upgrade is in my future as well, but I need to figure out if I have enough fuel system to support that, because I’ll be damned if I’m dropping the tanks to frig around with installing a double or triple pump setup. I’ll throw a cell in the back of it and do a dedicated return system first.
Right now, I need to concentrate on getting the car to hook. Hopefully, the 15” conversion will sort that out. We’re also working hard at the track to rewire the timing system, so maybe, with a bit of luck, I’ll have a timing slip soon. Hopefully, it won’t be too embarrassing.

Which size IW balancer did you go with? I opted for the 8-rib with the oversized “blower hub”, which comes with its own custom sized timing chain cover seal. I also bought the very neat IW crank pinning kit, which is the best and easiest way to pin their balancer. I marked the pulley so I would know how to position the pins so as to avoid drilling right next to the half-holes left by the Magnuson pinning kit (picture below). I would definitely invest in that pinning kit.
You also need to use the IW crank bolt that comes with the balancer. Their instructions specifically state that, IIRC.
I would pull the rack, but that’s only because after having to do it twice (don’t ask), I developed a relatively easy way to take the whole rack out through the top of the engine bay. The gory details are buried in a post somewhere earlier on in this now unwieldy thread.
Glad to hear that you’re going to take that thing to the next level. Don’t worry about the trans, it’ll be fine.

Went with the 10% over 8 rib. I do not want t do this again so in prep for future mods I went with the 8 rib. Been reading horror stories all morning about how to do the install. I really should have done this when I did the cam.... ugh

i need to find your install write up now

I went ahead and installed the BAP on the HX pump tonight. It was pretty easy - hardest part was figuring out where to put it. I ended up deciding that the only place to mount it was under the right fender where it meets the cowl, behind the HX coolant tank. Once I figured that out, it was just a matter of making a bracket to mount it and everything else after that was pretty straightforward. I tested it by turning the key on to run the pump and then bridged the Hobbs switch wires, and I could hear a noticeable difference in the sound of the pump and the flow of coolant through the HX tank. I’ll see how it works at the track this Sunday, if the weather holds.
EDIT: For clarification, I’m using the Hobbs to only activate the BAP when under boost, since that’s the only time I would really need it, other than after a burnout or so. During normal cruising, my IATs stay just about or slightly above ambient. If it looks like it helps, I may re-rig it in the future for manual activation so that I can run the pump at higher voltage during and after a burnout and throughout a run.

That’s a very interesting setup. I’ve heard of other systems that use the A/C to cool the HX coolant. Those Aussies are bloody awesome, mate! Without them, there wouldn’t even be a Heartbeat blower, among other things.
I would need to know some more about it before I pulled the trigger on one, though, and I would need to know for sure that it wouldn’t compromise my air conditioning, because I’m not giving up any comfort in this car. I already have a race car that I got sick of sweating my *** off in. At our track, we mandate that all A/ C systems have to be turned off. I cannot understand how it would be possible to run the system “in race mode” on track without condensation dripping from the car. And then there’s the fact that when you go WOT, the AC compressor trips out, for good reason. I know what it sounds like to grenade one of those suckers. Did that in my old 1998 Z28 and it scared the living **** out of me.

Thanks Scott. If it does collect condensation under the lid, that would be an added benefit - water injection!
I’m going to stick with the BAP and some chemical cooling until I can upgrade the fuel system and injectors and go Flex fuel on this b!tch. All I want to do is get the 8-rib setup on it, but USPS appears to be playing games shipping my IW pulley set all over the US (it’s been through the Chicago facility 3 times now!) and I can’t even get hold of Z-industries since UPS returned my pulley last week because they hadn’t included an invoice. Who would’ve thought it would be so goddamn difficult to ship a bunch of pulleys? Rockauto on the other hand, fedexed my belts out the same day and I had them in my hand by the end of the next day. Man, I love those guys.
BTW: Guess what temp it is outside right now? Yep, 85 frickin degrees.

Yep, I’ve seen that after shut down heat soak effect as well, and I’ve always thought what we need is something like the “turbo timer” system that the turbo 4-banger guys use - a system that runs our HX pump and the cooling fan for say, 4-5 mins after you shut off the car. That way, the HX system will prevent the CACs themselves from being heat soaked by the radiation of heat through the manifold. That way, when you restart, the HX can instantly bring the IAT back down. I have to say though, that with the larger HX reservoir, during the time between when I restart my car in the pits and drive to the start line, the IAT drops significantly to right around what the coolant in the tank is at. There’s many ways to ‘skin the cat’, so to speak. But the best way is definitely to simply inject methanol under the lid (as opposed to at the TB) and/or run E85. Watch that space. I just need to get my damn pulleys so I can (hopefully) get rid of the belt slip first.

I had no problem with belt slip with the 90mm pulley and stock balancer, which made right around 8.5psi with the stock cam. It wasn’t until after I stepped up to the 10%OD balancer and the 81mm/3.2” pulley that I started experiencing belt slip. Max boost I’ve seen it hit (momentarily) was ~13.5 psi after doing the 102mm throttle body (which netted me ~1.5psi). Since changing the heads to the CNC ported ones, the boost dropped back down a bit, by about 1 psi from what I can tell. But it’s all over the friggin place: fluctuating between 11.5ish to 12.5 in the higher RPMs. If I can get it to stabilize at 12.5 psi, I’ll be happy.
I’ve been trying to contact Z-Industries all week to find out where the hell my new 3.2” 8-rib is. I’ve made one or two calls every day at different times and sent them online messages, to no avail, ever since UPS shipped the pulley back to them because they didn’t include an invoice. They sent me an apology message last Friday and said they would ship it back out, but I have not been able to get hold of them ever since. They don’t even have a voice mail service. Not sure what to make of that...