schpenxel

Sounds awesome, 1500 people turning out to the event is pretty huge considering. It will be interesting to see what she'll do after you get all the suspension work, etc. completed.

I'm still around, lots of traveling coming up but that's about it. Still going to make it over there one of these years

I was hoping to at least do one or two 1/2 mile events this year but I haven't seen any advertised lately. The company that usually does them around here is only doing them in TX and FL this year (or that's all they have listed on their website anyways) so I'm not sure what the deal is there. Ah well.

CI GS

Finished up the suspension on Sunday by installing some Grant 12” suspension limiter straps in place of my homemade cables, as shown in the picture below. Sorry about the bad angle, which doesn’t show them properly. The bottom picture shows how the spring is hitting on the upper front control arm, even with the suspension drop being limited by about an inch by the straps. This is the only complaint I have with the Vikings, and this probably applies to every coil-over that uses the stock lower mount position. That would not be a problem if they used a bracket that bolted to the stock lower control arm mounting holes, but somehow moved the bottom of the shock inboard by even 1/2-3/4”, so it could clear that curved part of the upper control arm.

CI GS

I managed to take it on a short test drive on Sunday just to feel out the suspension and road test the new setup.
Man, with these spherical bearings, it seems you can feel and hear every imperfection in the road surface. It feels like a race car now. Can’t wait to hear what the wifey will say. The ride isn’t harsher per se, probably because of the coilovers softer springs, but, damn, it’s noisy now! It transmits noise so well through the chassis that I could swear I could hear the oil swirling around inside the damn diff!
It feels nice and tight on the road though, with Vikings recommended street settings. I didn’t get a chance to do a WOT run to check the shifts points with the new TCM adjustments for the 2.73 gears, but the changes I made seem to work well for part throttle. I gave it a couple of quick hits and it can still rip the NT05Rs up pretty good. More on that when I get to test it a bit more, perhaps with the shocks set on kill and with the drag tires and wheels on it.

scottg

Sammy is that spring rubbing on that arm? If not would it rub if you where doing some stress turns on windy roads?

CI GS

Yep, the upper control arm presses slightly against the spring at full drop with the limiter straps on. The limiters prevent the shocks from fully extending (and the suspension from dropping accordingly) by about another inch.
Without limiters on the front suspension, the control arm presses against the spring hard enough at full drop to bend the spring inwards towards the shock body.
In fact, even with the limiters on, when you put the car back on the ground and the suspension compresses, you can hear a loud clunk when the spring releases. I’m very disappointed with that, especially since there’s an easy fix for the manufacturer, which is to design a lower bracket that moves the bottom of the coilover assembly inboard away from the upper control arm. (EDIT: I’ve drawn a very rough sketch of what I’m talking about on the picture below). That’s what they did with the upper mount on the rear coilovers, which have more than adequate clearance between the control arm and the spring.

Chiselchst

Folks (CI_GS),

Would swapping out the Maggie Hx with an Edelbrock Hx improve IAT temps?

IIRC, the HB CAC's are better, but the Edelbrock Hx was better?

Just curious. If I ever pull the trigger & splurge, I plan to mimic Sammy & get the Camaro lid to add to my E85 & cam mods...been looking for a spare hood locally too (to hack up & fit the lid, LOL)

CI GS

Hey Mitch. Not sure about the Edelbrock HX. I had one saved in my wishlist at Summit for a while, but never pulled the trigger. I have no idea what, if anything, it would do for IATs with the stock pump, reservoir, etc.
I appreciate being the inspiration, but I don’t want to be the reason that you’re chopping up your car. Are you thinking of cutting the hood so that the blower sticks out the hood, or what?
But if you do the lid and buy an aftermarket hood, make sure doesn’t have a wide beam at the cowl, because that will hit the back of the lid anyhow. I can post some pics if necessary to show you what I mean.
Honestly, if I were you, I would just go with a cam kit and E85 setup, with the requisite fuel system upgrades, pulley down to the 81-84mm blower pulley, put a 10% OD balancer on it, and let her rip. With the E85, IATs won’t matter that much anyhow. You’ll have plenty more power than you need then.
I spent the day messing around with my front suspension (more on that soon), and preparing the car for an event next weekend. I tried it out at last month’s event, but it couldn’t hook for ****.

chuntington101

Stick a n2o spray bar kit on there if you are worried about IATs! 200shot should cool the intake air down a bit! haha

I'd have a look in the ZR1 section. A good bit of info in the about what are good and bad HEs. A lot upgraded to the magy HE i think. At the end of he alday it's about shifting the heat. You can run as big intercooler bricks as you like but if the alwater inside them is hot they are not much use! You either need big HE(s) to keep dumping the heat to the atmosphere or a large tank to absorb the heat / keep supplying brick with cool water.

The latter (large tank) is good for drag racing as you can ice down the tank. But once it's warm it's going to take much longer to cool down.

TIKT in German did an amazing twin HE setup on their ZR1 that used cheek coolers like the new ZR1.

CI GS

I think the better way to inject methanol on one of these blowers may be a methanol spray bar system, downstream of the CACs. But I’m not sure if the methanol would have sufficient time to achieve optimum cooling of the A/F charge though, especially at high rpms, because the intake valve is right there.
The best thing of all would be a N2O/methanol-augmented system. Once you get the jetting sorted, that would make serious power and be safer than just a regular gas-augmented nitrous spray bar system, and you could use the nitrous stream to atomize the methanol, right before it hits the back of the intake valve.
As I think I’ve said on here before, back in the day (late 90s), when I first got into outboard drag racing, there was a guy called Chuck Goodman who sold nitrous kits with methanol augmentation for two-stroke motors. The boats that ran those setups in the DSRA/ODBA Unlimited classes were the quickest and fastest outboard drag boats in the world. His justification for using methanol was the additional fueling, octane and cooling effect of methanol.
Now, I’ve hear guys saying all the time that they use C16 in my standalone to fuel the nitrous system to add octane, but the truth is that with typical nitrous jetting, you’re only adding a very small amount of gasoline to the engine when you activate the nitrous, so it’s just not going to get any significant octane from the nitrous/fuel injection, and nitrous in and of itself increases the need for anti-knock. But with methanol as the fuel augmentation, because of its lower stoich number, you’re adding a significant amount of fuel along with the nitrous, and we all know that methanol is the shitz for dropping IATs and adding octane. Best of both worlds, literally.
So, I’ve been thinking for a while now that I should try to get someone to build me a nitrous/methanol spray bar system. And then I’ll probably need a built bottom end to handle the power...
But, that’ll all have to wait until I can actually get my car to hook, and my blower belt to stop slipping...

ls1wolf

Say no to meth on these rotors.... please do some research...

old motorhead

I believe Sammy is describing a system that injects various concoctions after the blower. None of that stuff would go through the blower.

Just as a side note, I've injected meth and various mixtures of meth and water pre blower (yeah, that stuff went through the blower) with no ill effects. Hundreds of thousands of miles worth.

ls1wolf

Interesting.... I’ve heard from a few of the Eaton folks in the industry and from SCOL to NOT USE meth... apparently your the exception? Beats me

CI GS

There’s lots of folks who have used methanol, or a 50/50 water/meth mixture, injected upstream of the rotors on these blowers. But there has been a lot of debate about if and how that affects the coating on the TVS rotors, but I have yet to see anything concrete on methanol actually causing damage to the rotors.
However, as oldmotorhead is trying to point out, what I was referring to was a spray bar system that injects methanol after the charge air coolers, so it never touches the rotors. Hell, with the engine at WOT and the blower making boost, there’s no way that the methanol could even get anywhere near the rotors.

ls1wolf

Ill still take E85 over meth any day...

realcanuk

Ran water meth through my enforce for a long time with no ill effects.

It's fun trying to push things and see how much you can get out of these PD blowers. I really liked my eforce for what it was, but the truth is if you're trying to push them past a certain level, it gets to a point where it's just easier to go with a centri.

old motorhead

Lots and lots of folks have used it without any semblance of problems. Not just me. The exception would be finding someone who actually DID have problems due to the meth/water.

chuntington101

If you spray post CACs you will still get the octane and in cylinder cooling benifits of themeth! Like the idea of spraying meth and N2O. Is there any reason people don't do this more?

CI GS

Dunno. It’s probably just that it’s harder to get the jetting right, maybe?
IIRC, the way the Nitrox outboard systems worked was that the high pressure nitrous stream was used to atomize the meth.
With the 2-stoke outboard systems, they only did up to like 90hp with gasoline and 200+ hp with the meth. That says a lot right there. And those 2-strokes are far easier to grenade than one of our motors. Ask me how I know.
I’m sure that one of the big name nitrous companies could figure out how to do methanol augmentation with a spray bar system. I bet it would work fantastic. Hell, if they build one, I’ll buy it and test it for them.

chuntington101

I think it would be nicer to see someone you proper injectors to feed the meth rather than just nozzles. You could then add meth for just fuel (no N2O) or to help fuel the N2O as well. Could do a similar setup to like Weapon x are doing in the C7s and have a separate ECU that controls the meth & / or the N2O. This should offer more control and better safety than a normal meth setup.

CI GS

Of course that’s all possible. However, for the vast majority of applications, if you’re only injecting the methanol at WOT, you don’t really need an injector, IMV, unless you want to create a fuel curve based on RPM, Boost, etc.
That is already possible with nitrous, so if the methanol is part of the system, that control will be done by way of the fueling solenoid(s) and the system controller. With the (relatively old tech) NOS Launcher system that I have in my race car, I can build progressive nitrous/fuel curves for each gear, activate/deactivate the same based on MAP or RPM and it even has a wideband control feature with the ability to shut off the system if the A/F mixture goes beyond a programmed lean threshold. So, I’m thinking it would be easily possible to effectively set up a nitrous /methanol spray bar system that delivers a N2O/Meth mixture that ramps in and out wherever you need it.