If they are they must have changed their casting recently. They were a GM casting last time I used them.

 

The 265s might be ? The 285s state that they are a "thicker" deck. The aftermarket casting norm seems to be 3/4" except for the All pro lsw-2 that is .900"?

Looking at the cost difference, I think I'll probably go with PRC 285s. Knowing what Unreal pushes through his and what some people have pushed through 4 bolts... I'm comfortable with them. I don't think with a ysi on a stock LS7 or Fast 102 intake manifold I would be able to take advantage of the mast/rhs/all pro etc type heads.

 

They have both. They have PRC ported stock castings and their own casting that is a 6 bolt thick deck head.

another local made 1090rwhp on PRC 260 LS3 heads, 6 bolt heads but 4 bolt block. Same with a Camaro made 1012rwhp on PRC 260 ls3 6 bolt heads, forged 416 ls3 block. No sleeves on either of those.

Stick with stock ls7 intake, fast is a waste.

 

That's good to know


Also with the FAST you would have to consider that it might blow apart depending on how hard you spin that blower.

 

There is the cost difference to consider. I'm running a stock ls7 intake with mast heads and an F2 on a 4 bolt ls2 block that was sleeved. Just make sure you get a thick deck and a good tuner and it will be fine.

 

Well, I've been busy this weekend but I think the gameplan is something along these lines.

ERL 6 bolt superdeck shortblock assembly
PRC 285 Heads with Ti intake valves
Sell the Whipple 2.9 and buy YSI/2200R
Direct Drive and 8 rib or 10 rib
ID 1000s
Methanol Injection kit
Dewitt's Cutdown Radiator

Those things I'm pretty sure about at this point.
What I need to figure out is my fuel and cam.

I have a Ragin' racing stage 1 fuel system, which has twin walhbro 255s. The regulator is in the rear fender, using stock rails/lines. So I can move the regulator up front and run some new lines, etc. With meth I'm wondering if this will be enough or if I should run a boost referenced external, OR scrap the 255s and go with twin 340s? I think I'll try moving the regulator up front first with new lines and see where that gets me.

I also have a Ragin' Racing v1 blower cam which is 224/248 117 LSA .625 lift. The cam is very streetable, you can tell the car has a cam, but it isn't a fender shaker. It might shake at idle with the A/C on, slightly... sometimes. So, I really like that it is streetable. I don't mind if the car shakes at idle as long as it doesn't surge like crazy, which this one does not surge. So the question is, should I go to something slightly more aggressive to make the blower/engine combo more efficient? If I can keep the surge to a minimum. I'm thinking I'll probably stay with this cam, but I wanted to get opinions.

I have a mantic 9000 in the car, so the clutch should be good. I'll try not to hammer on the car too hard from a dig until my wallet recovers from this adventure and I will work on upgrading the driveline.

 

Twin 255s would crack 1000 but not much room to go. I'm running the AEM 320s, cheap and they work great.
Cam is fine. Mine is a 230/246 116 LSA speced out by Pat G.

Mantic 9k is great, I've had zero issues with mine at >1000rwhp.

If you want an 8 rib setup I'll sell you my setup.

 

The 320s look pretty tempting at that price. Dropping the fuel tank, however, does not sound so tempting haha. I know from reading some of your posts you know all too well about that headache.

I think I'll end up doing 10 rib and just be done with it.

 

Good idea. Just was throwing it out there if you wanted.

I talked with several people and they said the 340s aren't that good, to do the 320s. Less power draw, less drop off, and just a better pump.

 

Exactly why I went with an A&A style fuel system. My stock pump is in the tank and I run an external Bosch 044 that is activated by a pressure switch. It also has a return line. The pump A&A sells in their big boy fuel system kit is a Holley pump that is essentially two 255's in a billet case.

 

Sounds like a solid plan OP. All you need now is to let Futral Motorsports handle the rest for you if you don't have a new tuner.

 

I tried to find ur COMBO if u don't mind will u please tell me I want to make about the same power you're making but if I remember correctly... you are under 427 cubic inches n still on an aluminum block but I'm not certain so please help...I know I am upgrading to a 2200r or ysi but didn't wanna do lsx block if I didn't have too....and another question is that rwhp and are u on pump gas??

 

Why the concern about an LSX block? At 1000 rwhp that seems like a necessity to me. If you are worried about the weight after machining your only talking about adding about 70 to 80 lbs. unless you plan on a lot of HPDE events the added weight did not bother me. The safety of the iron block with the option of 6 bolt heads out weighed the weight issue. Just curious what your reasoning for avoiding the LSX block was?

 

I said use aem 320s. The aero 340 suck.

My car is a 427 lsx and was pump with meth.