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So yesterday morning car started making a wierd noise. Sounds like it has an old school PD blower. Drove it around for 2 days, no real issues driving besides the noise. Car still drove good. It was my only car so I had to get to work. Finally got my mustang back so now trying to figure out what is going on.
Took the blower belt off and started it up, noise gone so it is from the blower side. That leaves water pump, blower, tensioner or idler. All of them spin freely, no play, nothing weird when spun by hand. Not sure what to do next to try to figure out which one is the culprit. Hopefully it is idler or tensioner since those are fairly easy, if it is water pump that is going to be a pain, and if it is the blower I'll push the car off a cliff.
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The whiney noise was never there until yesterday morning at a stop light
Yah, sounds like it has an old school 8-71 installed. Super loud and annoying. I guess I'll have to put it back together and use a stethescope or something to figure out where it is coming from. I do have new tensioner/idlers for the 10 rib waiting to go on but I don't want to put them on just to pull it apart if it isn't one of them.
Yah, sounds like it has an old school 8-71 installed. Super loud and annoying. I guess I'll have to put it back together and use a stethescope or something to figure out where it is coming from. I do have new tensioner/idlers for the 10 rib waiting to go on but I don't want to put them on just to pull it apart if it isn't one of them.
It does sound like a steering pump with no oil but you have ruled that out.
Like you said, run the car and listen with a stethoscope or a long screwdriver with one end on each pulley and the other end in your ear. Shouldn't be hard to pinpoint that way.
You might also get an infrared heat sensor gun and point that thing around. Seems like something making that kind of noise would also be generating some extra heat.
It isn't PS pump because with the direct drive blower belt runs water pump, idler, tensioner blower and separate belt runs PS and Alt. Pulled blower belt off, noise goes away. PS pump is still spinning so it isn't that. No signs of heat. If it was the blower or water pump I doubt you would see heat damage or get a good reading just because of how internal it would be.
Will do tonight. Like I said, all 4 items spin freely, no binding, no wobble. Compressor wheel has no play/etc. Everything appears to be fine. I'll get the belt back on.
If anything needs to be replaced then it is all coming apart for the 10 rib and ECS cog DD mod.
Yah, and that is just if it needs new bearings. Matt was just telling me they sent one in and rebuild was $1500 because it needed a new case. Lame.
Since I have the 10 rib kit sitting on shelf with 2 new idlers/etc I'm thinking I could swap the 10 rib blower parts on with new idlers/etc and then just run the 8 rib belt on it with the 8 rib crank pulley. That is if I can't tell with a stethoscope.
That scope will tell you a lot I think. I had a alternator making all sorts of racket, but when spun by hand it was smooth as glass. It seems the torsional inputs form the engine being driven really made it sing. I'd guess its the gear mesh in the blower, but I hope not. What a rip for a rebuild with such low miles. If these cars were easier to turbo everyone would do it
Last edited by slow ride; Apr 23, 2014 at 04:18 PM.
Water pump is the hardest actually. Have to take blower off and a lot more to do water pump. Plus not big on replacing it if it seems fine.
Scope should tell me. I'm betting it is the blower too at this point but just hoping it isn't. What sucks is since the Ysi is a "RACE" blower they have no warranty and rebuilds have no warranty. I could always try to rebuild it myself too.
When poking at it at lunch noticed the bolt that holds the tensioner idler was a bit loose, so hopefully that was it. Had to pull blower to remove that and tighten, then put it back together and see if noise is gone. Going to put the 10 rib spacers and idler on since it is off anyways.
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