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Ok, I'm looking at taking out my LS2 and getting a iron block thrown in. As of right now, my options are a lq9 stroked, a Dart Next, one of the GM Bowties lsx's, or not going iron, but just forging my LS2.
My goals are long term reliability for 900 whp and cost.
I'd appreciate any feedback anybody has for me before I do it.
People on the forum had good luck with the lq9 and lsx... Haven't heard much about the dart next yet but @ that price level you'd prolly be better off with a solid ERL set-up over a block without a lot of testing yet... Iron is stronger block but it will retain more heat over the aluminum... IMO the more stock parts you can use the better as far as reliability goes... If I was building my motor I'd prolly stick with a stock block build... They are tried and true! Seen stock blocks go 8's and make well over 1k to the wheels...
You really need to do a lot of research. On the internet you'll find people will tell you LS2 will hold X amount of power. I have found a lot of ppl on LS1 tech push LS2/LS3 to 900whp and 6 to 12 months later you'll find a blown engine thread. Sure, some have held up for 2+ years but you just have to understand there are risks.
In my mind, you should either go for ERL Sleeved block(Alum) or RHS or perhaps Dart LSNext iron but that one doesnt come with billet main caps if i remember and but the time you factor all that in it adds up $$. In my mind both LS and LSx blocks from GM dont have the best cylinder sleeves especially once bored out to hell.
Schwanke offers a nice little iron 370ci short block which would be my choice if i went iron/budget setup.
You really need to do a lot of research. On the internet you'll find people will tell you LS2 will hold X amount of power. I have found a lot of ppl on LS1 tech push LS2/LS3 to 900whp and 6 to 12 months later you'll find a blown engine thread. Sure, some have held up for 2+ years but you just have to understand there are risks.
In my mind, you should either go for ERL Sleeved block(Alum) or RHS or perhaps Dart LSNext iron but that one doesnt come with billet main caps if i remember and but the time you factor all that in it adds up $$. In my mind both LS and LSx blocks from GM dont have the best cylinder sleeves especially once bored out to hell.
Schwanke offers a nice little iron 370ci short block which would be my choice if i went iron/budget setup.
Ive seen a few RHS blocks crack too... It depends how much you want to spend, any block / build can break with a ****** tune! You can build a whole short block for the price of just the RHS block or ERL but if you got the money then go for it lol
Ive seen a few RHS blocks crack too... It depends how much you want to spend, any block / build can break with a ****** tune! You can build a whole short block for the price of just the RHS block or ERL but if you got the money then go for it lol
Are you referring to those ppl on Yellowbullet with cracked RHS blocks?
Yes, you're totally right, you can f**k up any block but might as well get better parts and hope it lasts longer...
Then again, tune itself is another huge key for the blocks longevity
Are you referring to those ppl on Yellowbullet with cracked RHS blocks?
Yes, you're totally right, you can f**k up any block but might as well get better parts and hope it lasts longer...
Then again, tune itself is another huge key for the blocks longevity
well i did see some RHS problems on yellowbullet but also ive seen them in person, you just dont hear about it on the forum sometimes it just gets kept on the DL lol
well i did see some RHS problems on yellowbullet but also ive seen them in person, you just dont hear about it on the forum sometimes it just gets kept on the DL lol
Good to know, im just curious if anyone have had issues south of 1000whp. Something tells me those yellowbullet guys are pushing ton of power on them
I guess it all depends on the budget too. If you have the budget, just do an ERL block. LSX is a bit less and would be my next choice. I haven't seen any issues with the newest LSX block. It is on rev 3 or 4 and has changed a lot since the early ones with core shift issues.
I still think for 900 I would just do a ls2 block unless it was a mile car or road race car/etc. If it is just street and 1/4 mile I wouldn't have an issue running a stock ls2 block.
I appreciate all the replys. I've been quoted 7700 to remove, stroke, reinstall, and tune my LS2. I've also been told I could get at least 1000 for my stock block and get a iron block for 3000 with forged rotating parts already. So, I'd like to change out the the novi 1500 for a YSI some day, but I don't want to have to redo any engine stuff because of the new power. I like to build for future projects. I m pretty certain I will be able to get 14 to 15 pounds of boost out of my novi. and with the other parts I have I should be able to get 850 to the wheel but I'd like 900 to 950
My take is a little different. Up to ~1000 RWHP a cheap LQ iron short block is my choice. That way, if it blows up you're not out too much. I have seen just as many ERL/LSX blocks fail as built stock blocks. IMO the only reason to go aftermarket is to move to six bolt heads once you reach or exceed the amount of power a four bolt head will handle, which isn't going to help the longevity of the short block, just allow you to clamp the heads down better.
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