I've had my ProCharger with KB BAP on for over 9 years. The last couple of years I've had an intermittent hard start issue that I blamed on batteries which I replaced. Out of the blue the car cranks hard but no fuel pressure. Switch around relays and sometimes it helps and others it doesn't. Seems if the car sits for a short period the fuel pump realy kicks in and pressure's back up. Also the reason for condemming the battery is most often the car will start with my boost pac. Searching for anything. Thanks.

 

Likely it's the wire connecter (loose fitting) in the fuse block at the relay.

Simple check; next time it fails to start wiggle/pushing up that part of the harness going into the fuse block.

I've had to pull mine apart, bend the connecter so it fit snug and add dielectric grease.

 

I've removed the fuse blocks and found my AC compressor relay circuit with a burn mark at one of the terminals and I will hopefully be able to replace that block which also holds the fuel pump relay. I've moved and switched around relays, wiggled everything I can find to wiggle and it's hit and miss if I can ever do any good.

 

What kind of BAP do you have and how is it wired up? I've always an a Racetronix harness so there is really no load being placed on the factory fuel pump relay or wiring. Then I crimp AND solder all my wiring connections to splice the BAP into the Racetronix harness.

Your problem certainly sounds like an electrical or contact issue with the fuel pump/BAP. Maybe the BAP itself. One other nice thing about the Racetronix harness is that it can easily be bypassed for diagnosis purposes.

 

I've got a KB BAP. I turned the control all the way down and it still kicks out. The fp relay is getting hot.

 

Sounds like a poor connection somewhere. That's why I asked how it was wired.

 

I would try removing the BAP and stay out of boost to narrow down the possible causes.

 

Car only runs a couple of mins before shutdown. I've got it in the shop and it appears to be a beat up fuel pump.

 

Hopefully they took the time to diagnose it properly. If you know what to look for and where to check, it isn't hard. I've never seen a bad fuel pump show those kind of symptoms, but anything's possible.

 

From what I've seen there's no indication of any overloaded wires but something definitely drawing enough current to overheat the fuel relay. Car now won't run any longer than 2-3 mins before kickoff. I should get the final diagnosis tomorrow.

 

good luck

 

Turns out you're right. What I thought was a ac compressor relay burned at the fuse terminal block was indeed the fuel relay section. Ordered the Racetronix harness and new fuse block so hopefully when it all gets in the problem is solved.

 

Good to hear. Hopefully that takes care of it.

Just make sure you order the BAP connector kit from Racetronix ( http://racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=PBIC%2D001&Tp=). It's a couple bucks extra and includes the connectors and pins needed to splice the BAP into the Racetronix harness. You could always solder or use butt connectors, but the kit from Racetronix is the way to go for nice OEM style contacts. Also makes it really easy to bypass the BAP if you ever need to.

Also, when you get your harness, swap out the 20 amp mini-fuse that's installed for a 30 amp. The 20 amp fuse popped on me the first time I tested out my competition KB BAP. Just too much amperage draw. Thankfully it was in the shop and I was testing it with my hand held boost/vacuum pump when it happened. Threw in a 30 amp and all is good.

 

The reason your relay is getting cooked is because the fp pos wire (connector) in the fuse block is arcing from poor connection. I fixed mine in 30min and still have the racetronix harness sitting in a box 2 years later.

 

I know it isn't really "needed", but I'd never run a BAP on a C6 without a Racetronix harness. Takes all the load off the factory wiring and relay, makes the BAP's job easier by feeding it voltage straight off the alternator, plus involves zero cutting of the factory wiring harness. Win/win.

 

I assumed the adaptor was included but I see it's a stand alone part. One of the drawbacks to to no phone contact available. I've got an email in so hopefully they get back quick. My harness is already shipped and they've got a $10 min so it won't even accept my order. Just wish everyone still had a phone. Thanks

 

I've been down this road before as you can probably tell. Figured I'd give you the heads up

 

There was no salvaging the block, it had melted the plastic around the pins. Had I known what I was up against that Racetronix harness would have been on a long time ago.