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Mantic 9000 clutch issues

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Old Jul 1, 2014 | 11:04 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by FastestBusaAround
I just reread your post - so, you had the same issue as me, but when he reversed the plates, it went away? To be clearer, the issue you had was that the car would shudder bad when releasing the clutch into 1st?
I dislike this clutch when I first installed it. The car was very easy die when engaging. It would not slip easy especially after a long highway drive. I never could understand that reverse would work so wonderful but 1st was a pain. I like it now. I didn't reverse any plates. There is an install choice with the clutch on the pressure plate side. You can install it making contact pad to pad or not pad to pad (staggered). It is installed with pad to pad now. I still get the shudder sometimes. I believe it is part on how I slip the clutch and gas when starting to move now. It acts more like a stock clutch now instead of the fear of it always trying to die when starting to move the car in first.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 07:20 AM
  #22  
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Thanks for sharing - at least I know I'm not alone with the issue!
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 07:39 AM
  #23  
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Oh ok. Not the case with the rxt,only when leaving from a dead start.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 08:22 AM
  #24  
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I just removed a L/W clutch flywheel ***'y, I could drive it but no one else without stalling etc. I had considered the Mantic as replacement & when I spoke with them they said they might take a look at the tune after I installed the clutch, it would have to be emailed as I'm on the other coast. Was not prepared for the gamble & the learning curve for the other drivers. I'm back to a 52lbs clutch & flywheel ***'y.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 09:20 AM
  #25  
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Two things that need to be made clear in this thread;

1, there is no "lightweight flywheel option" from Mantic. All the 9000 twin disc clutches have the same billet steel flywheel.

2, I have yet to EVER have to tune a car differently due to installing a Mantic clutch.



Carry on.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 07:20 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by DOUG @ ECS
Two things that need to be made clear in this thread;

1, there is no "lightweight flywheel option" from Mantic. All the 9000 twin disc clutches have the same billet steel flywheel.

2, I have yet to EVER have to tune a car differently due to installing a Mantic clutch.



Carry on.
You never had to retune a car after installing this clutch? I had to get mine retune for having to seek for idle. This was never mention about the product before buying. I did learn after the fact a retune is almost always needed going from a heavy clutch setup to a considerable lighter clutch setup.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 07:25 PM
  #27  
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Really, is that why the total weight of the Mantic flywheel is about 1/3 of the stock flywheel? If that's not light weight, I don't know what is. It seems I'm not the only one with this issue here...look at post #21. He has the same issue -

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1587265803-post21.html

So, I'm trying to understand why I have this issue - as do some others, if it's NOT a lightweight clutch, which others say has this exact issue. Can you shed some light on this?

My installer called me while he was installing the clutch / flywheel and made a comment about the flywheel being about 1/3 of the weight of the stocker. He warned me that I could have issues such as this...

Tuning seems to have corrected it to a large degree and even you - in another thread, responded to this issue saying I should PM you for the solution, which I did, and which you shared with me, knowing this was a Mantic 9000. Now, I am hearing something different from you...

This is what you posted - in that thread.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...installed.html

2nd post in the thread - but here is the content of your post -

Quote:
Glad you like the pedal feel, as far as the light load situation goes you can take care of that in the tune file. PM me if you would like me to elaborate on that.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 07:27 PM
  #28  
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To the O.P.

Did you reuse your flywheel bolts or use the ones that came with the clutch? I originally tried the bolts that came with the clutch and they were bad. I had a friend that is a GM tech buy some new flywheel bolts and they were bad also. He called into GM support and reported the problem. GM is now looking from where these bad bolts are coming from. The bad bolts act like they are a torque to yield. They will stretch and not reach the proper 75 ft/lbs.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 08:14 PM
  #29  
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Good question - I will have to ask them tomorrow. I didn't do the work myself...but I'm betting they used the bolts that came with the kit.
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 08:43 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by FastestBusaAround
Really, is that why the total weight of the Mantic flywheel is about 1/3 of the stock flywheel? If that's not light weight, I don't know what is. It seems I'm not the only one with this issue here...look at post #21. He has the same issue -

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1587265803-post21.html

So, I'm trying to understand why I have this issue - as do some others, if it's NOT a lightweight clutch, which others say has this exact issue. Can you shed some light on this?

My installer called me while he was installing the clutch / flywheel and made a comment about the flywheel being about 1/3 of the weight of the stocker. He warned me that I could have issues such as this...

Tuning seems to have corrected it to a large degree and even you - in another thread, responded to this issue saying I should PM you for the solution, which I did, and which you shared with me, knowing this was a Mantic 9000. Now, I am hearing something different from you...

This is what you posted - in that thread.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...installed.html

2nd post in the thread - but here is the content of your post -

Quote:
Glad you like the pedal feel, as far as the light load situation goes you can take care of that in the tune file. PM me if you would like me to elaborate on that.


Again I'll do my best to try and explain that it's a tuning issue, I make those corrections in the tune in the first place so a heavy flywheel does not mask an issue.

Good luck with it.
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 09:21 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by needcheese
To the O.P.

Did you reuse your flywheel bolts or use the ones that came with the clutch? I originally tried the bolts that came with the clutch and they were bad. I had a friend that is a GM tech buy some new flywheel bolts and they were bad also. He called into GM support and reported the problem. GM is now looking from where these bad bolts are coming from. The bad bolts act like they are a torque to yield. They will stretch and not reach the proper 75 ft/lbs.
I don't think its a metallurgy issue so much as a variation in supplier issue....

Some OEM flywheel bolts I've seen have a shoulder under the head that helps locate the flywheel....problem being the shoulder in some instances is to long and bottoms out against the crank before applying proper clamping load. Worse yet...some aftermarket flywheels are thinner then OEM at the mounting face which makes the issue more pronounced when using OEM bolts.
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 02:27 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Six-Gun-Todd
I don't think its a metallurgy issue so much as a variation in supplier issue....

Some OEM flywheel bolts I've seen have a shoulder under the head that helps locate the flywheel....problem being the shoulder in some instances is to long and bottoms out against the crank before applying proper clamping load. Worse yet...some aftermarket flywheels are thinner then OEM at the mounting face which makes the issue more pronounced when using OEM bolts.
It is an issue. The original stock flywheel bolts worked perfectly. The old bolts and the new bolts are the same length and size. The new bolts are a slightly different color (more grayish). There is bad supply coming from somewhere. The mantic kit from somewhere (purchased from ecs) not in east Texas had bad flywheel bolts. We got flywheel bolts from the chevy dealership in Tyler, TX that was bad also. We sent the bad flywheel bolts to the GM support that was contacted about this. He also is getting them to correct the service manuals for the torque specs for flywheel bolts between the LS3 and LS7. I forgot which one but states a torque to degree instead of torque to number and the other states a torque to number.
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 10:40 AM
  #33  
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I've been running the mantic 9000 twin in my car for almost a year now. No issues what so ever. I daily drive the car too, as long as the weather cooperates. I didn't have to make any adjustments to my tune for the clutch. I did notice making sure my fluid is very clean, helps with my pedal feel, but thats expected with any clutch.
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 07:21 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by FastestBusaAround
I have the Mantic 9000 Dual disc. I just replaced the stock clutch with this setup, but am having nightmare issues trying to get around the ultra light flywheel issues

When releasing the clutch in 1st from a dead stop, once the engine has warmed up somewhat, the car shudders badly until the car starts to roll. It's not as bad in reverse; in fact it's almost imperceptible.

Doug at ECS mentioned increasing the airflow in the 1st and 2nd gear air tables, which we did and it's a bit better, but nowhere near acceptable.

At least it isn't stalling now, but it shudders badly going into 1st.

Now, if the engine is cold and is running in enriched mode, there's no issue at all. This only happens once the engine warms up.

If I start the car from cold, and idle it without touching the clutch, it will do the same thing once the car has warmed up, so it doesn't seem to be a mechanical issue to me.

I haven't heard of anyone else having this issue -

Any thoughts?

I'm running a YSI putting down over 975 WHP
Ever figure it out? I have a similar issue I believe, I figured it was normal. Dead stop in first shake/shutter the stick it's self hops all around until I get going. I noticed its a lot "smoother" if you take off at a higher rpm.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 09:46 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by zblkr1
Ever figure it out? I have a similar issue I believe, I figured it was normal. Dead stop in first shake/shutter the stick it's self hops all around until I get going. I noticed its a lot "smoother" if you take off at a higher rpm.
Step one: Remove the factory clutch pedal return spring (5 minute job)
Step two: Leave at a slightly higher RPM from a stop and gently ride the clutch
Step three: Enjoy the butter smooth shifting of this clutch at all RPMs. I've pushed mine to 7600 and 720rwhp and it loves it.
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Old May 3, 2016 | 10:45 PM
  #36  
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so remove the spring and dont replace it with anything?
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Old May 3, 2016 | 11:12 PM
  #37  
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Correct
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Old May 4, 2016 | 06:45 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Suprfly
so remove the spring and dont replace it with anything?
Absolutely. It behaves much better without it. The stock spring definitely over powers the lighter pedal throw of the Mantic.

You will be able to modulate the clutch much better.
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