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How many are using a Kenne Bell “Boost A Pump” ? I am considering adding SC and am only worried about this item. 2008 LS3. Are these boost a pumps as reliable as just replacing the stock pump? Or is it just a cheap alternative with no inherent risks? THANKS
I've never heard about reliability issues with the KB BAP, but yes on the old MSD models. Most people use the BAPs up until about 650-700rwhp with meth and at that point add an ECS or A&A Stg 1 fuel pump addition from what I've read.
I've had good luck with the Kenne Bell BAPs. The key to reliability IMO is a solid install.
Pick up a harness from Racetronix so you don't have to cut any factory wiring. Then crimp + solder + insulate all connections. Done.
A Z06 pump is another option for a mild setup. It's just a lot more labor intensive to install, and I don't think it'll support as much power by itself vs a BAP with a stock pump.
From: Providing the most proven supercharger kits for your C5/6/7 609-752-0321
Originally Posted by Pitufina
I've never heard about reliability issues with the KB BAP, but yes on the old MSD models. Most people use the BAPs up until about 650-700rwhp with meth and at that point add an ECS or A&A Stg 1 fuel pump addition from what I've read.
Just had one put on my 2008 ls3. It was starving for gas at 6100 rpms with smaller pulley on heartbeat supercharger. DRM put on the Kenny Bell bap. 3 weeks ago. Got to open it up last week-end. Went fine all the way up to red line No problems. But had to dyno it to make sure it was right and getting enough fuel in higher rpms. At the time of install. You are less than 3 or 4 miles from me. DRM is in Waverly MN About 50 miles one way. " 559 rwhp". Before I was making 514 rwhp before pulling down and stock pump was fine.
I had this same question when I went SC.
I have never read anything about reliability issues and a BAP should take you to 600+.
FWIW i just installed a FP gauge on my car. At idle its 59/60 and WOT through all gears that thing is glued at 55 psi. So i think its doin its job. I made 550 whp on a mustang dyno.
All the KB BAP does is increase the voltage to the stock fuel pump under boost conditions. My tuner said that the stock system is sufficient up to 600rwhp, and the BAP will shorten the life of the stock pump.
My car makes 550 rwhp, and I've been running the stock pump with the ProCharger for 55k miles and 7 years with zero issues.
I do use the RaceTronics fuel pump wiring harness that puts voltage directly off the back of the alternator to the stock pump, which reduces the possibility of voltage drop during high usage occasions.
Just be careful. Had the Heartbeat put on last year. 514rwhp stock pump was just fine plenty of gas getting to the motor. Went down to the 084 pulley last three digits on pulley from magnuson. and at 6100 rpms it was not getting enough gas at 559rwhp and 539 rwt. He then suggested the kenny bell pump only goes on at 3lbs of boost and up. Took three weeks to get it in for the pump. Drove it like a granny for 3 weeks. Tunner said starving for gas can hurt or wreck your engine. Mine is 2008 ls3 12,000 miles on it. 2,000 on supercharger
Yes...that harness. Thats a good idea too. And make sure to get the little in-line connector so you can do the ends of the BAP wires nice and not have to cut/solder wiring.
This one...... Pump boost interface blah blah http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...PBIC%2D001&Tp=
I had one put in one time that was done half a$$ and the wires weren't put together very good. It blew 2 fuses and left me stranded twice. My suggestion is to make sure you take your time and do it right.
I had one put in one time that was done half a$$ and the wires weren't put together very good. It blew 2 fuses and left me stranded twice. My suggestion is to make sure you take your time and do it right.
Yep. Like I said up above: Crimp, then solder, then seal all connections. On my new build, I even went as far as to get a different Hobbs switch that uses an OEM style weatherpack connector.
which Hobbs switch is it, do you have a part number, that's sounds like a good idea for just in case!!
Originally Posted by Streetk14
Yep. Like I said up above: Crimp, then solder, then seal all connections. On my new build, I even went as far as to get a different Hobbs switch that uses an OEM style weatherpack connector.
They make versions with other pressure ratings too. I went with the 2 psi version and was able to set it to activate at 3 psi. I didn't notice this before, but that schematic in the link I gave you lists the different springs and adjustment ranges. Looks like mine is 1.1-3.0 in.hg, and the next one up is 4-8 in.hg.