Wideband Recommendations!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
I'd also recommend getting a roll of that heavy duty red double sided tape. SLP does give you a little with the pod, but mine had problems staying firmly in place at first. I ended up adding a strip to just about every contact edge of the pod, and it's been rock solid since.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Thanks street. I have plenty of that 3m double sided tape. Stuff is incredibly strong. Just have to make sure the surfaces are perfectly clean and free of oils, to allow it to stick.
Cant wait to install it. I am just going to run the wires out the back of the pod and down the dash as best as I can without having to pull the dash. I have the worst luck with those clips, so I try to avoid pulling trim held on by clips at all costs.
Cant wait to install it. I am just going to run the wires out the back of the pod and down the dash as best as I can without having to pull the dash. I have the worst luck with those clips, so I try to avoid pulling trim held on by clips at all costs.
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Thanks street. I have plenty of that 3m double sided tape. Stuff is incredibly strong. Just have to make sure the surfaces are perfectly clean and free of oils, to allow it to stick.
Cant wait to install it. I am just going to run the wires out the back of the pod and down the dash as best as I can without having to pull the dash. I have the worst luck with those clips, so I try to avoid pulling trim held on by clips at all costs.
Cant wait to install it. I am just going to run the wires out the back of the pod and down the dash as best as I can without having to pull the dash. I have the worst luck with those clips, so I try to avoid pulling trim held on by clips at all costs.
also, on the clips.. GM is making the plastic parts thinner and thinner but has been using the same clips for years if not decades. The clips take more force to separate now than the plastic can withstand in a lot of instances. I've destroyed quite a few panels trying to get them off.. plastic rips, clips are still in place
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
I've removed that instrument panel trim bezel on both of my C6's. It's not hard at all to do, and I've never had problems with the clips breaking. They're a metal clip, and that trim bezel is plenty strong. I don't think you'll be getting the wires hidden without at least popping the panel a little loose on the left side.
For the wiring, I wrapped everything up really neatly with electrical tape and zip tied it up to the factory wiring up near the OBD port, before having it cross over to the passenger side fuse box area. Get a metal coat hanger or similar to feed the wires across behind the heater box.
There are plenty of good spots to mount the PLX module by the fuse box. I just used more of that 3M tape to stick it on, then one of those mini fuse-taps to feed it key-on power. The only thing I'd be careful with is the ground -- you'll want a really good one for accurate wideband readings. I actually ran mine out into the engine bay and secured it to one of the factory ground posts on the frame. And as always, I crimped + soldered + shrink wrapped all my connections.
Hope that helps
For the wiring, I wrapped everything up really neatly with electrical tape and zip tied it up to the factory wiring up near the OBD port, before having it cross over to the passenger side fuse box area. Get a metal coat hanger or similar to feed the wires across behind the heater box.
There are plenty of good spots to mount the PLX module by the fuse box. I just used more of that 3M tape to stick it on, then one of those mini fuse-taps to feed it key-on power. The only thing I'd be careful with is the ground -- you'll want a really good one for accurate wideband readings. I actually ran mine out into the engine bay and secured it to one of the factory ground posts on the frame. And as always, I crimped + soldered + shrink wrapped all my connections.
Hope that helps
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Streetk14,
Thanks for all the suggestions.
What fuse did you tap to power the PLX module? If I remember correctly, I already have like 2 fuses tapped in there (one for curb alert, and another one for the fuel pressure sensor). Can I just piggy back of one of those?
As for the ground, where exactly are the factory ground posts on the frame located? I may do that. I have the Fuel pressure sensor and Meth system grounded to a spot behind the dead pedal on the frame I believe.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
What fuse did you tap to power the PLX module? If I remember correctly, I already have like 2 fuses tapped in there (one for curb alert, and another one for the fuel pressure sensor). Can I just piggy back of one of those?
As for the ground, where exactly are the factory ground posts on the frame located? I may do that. I have the Fuel pressure sensor and Meth system grounded to a spot behind the dead pedal on the frame I believe.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
Streetk14,
Thanks for all the suggestions.
What fuse did you tap to power the PLX module? If I remember correctly, I already have like 2 fuses tapped in there (one for curb alert, and another one for the fuel pressure sensor). Can I just piggy back of one of those?
As for the ground, where exactly are the factory ground posts on the frame located? I may do that. I have the Fuel pressure sensor and Meth system grounded to a spot behind the dead pedal on the frame I believe.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
What fuse did you tap to power the PLX module? If I remember correctly, I already have like 2 fuses tapped in there (one for curb alert, and another one for the fuel pressure sensor). Can I just piggy back of one of those?
As for the ground, where exactly are the factory ground posts on the frame located? I may do that. I have the Fuel pressure sensor and Meth system grounded to a spot behind the dead pedal on the frame I believe.
There are a number of ground points on the very top of the frame rails that run right next to the engine. The one I used was on the passenger side kind of near the dry-sump tank. I'm sure you could find other good spots on the frame to ground it, but I just like using factory ground points when I can. With our battery being in the trunk, I figured this was as good as it was going to get. I tune my car using my wideband, so accuracy was something I was after.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Streetk, finally got the plx afr system in.
Does it matter which exhaust bank I put the O2 sensor in?
Also is there anyway to have the DM6 gauge output boost as well, say from the dashlogic?
Does it matter which exhaust bank I put the O2 sensor in?
Also is there anyway to have the DM6 gauge output boost as well, say from the dashlogic?
Last edited by pikkashoe; Dec 10, 2014 at 01:32 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Ok guys, need some help.
Got under the car today to check out the headers. I have PFadt headers with high flow cats that have been gutted.
On the driver side bank, there are 2 bungs, one in front of the cats, and one behind, both have o2 sensors in them.
On the passenger side, there are 3 bungs, 2 in front of the cats, one does not have anything it, and then another bung after the cats.
Both bungs behind the cats are on top of the pipe, so basically almost impossible to access without dropping them.
So I am guessing the wideband O2 goes into that one unused bung on the pax side? The cats are gutted.
Got under the car today to check out the headers. I have PFadt headers with high flow cats that have been gutted.
On the driver side bank, there are 2 bungs, one in front of the cats, and one behind, both have o2 sensors in them.
On the passenger side, there are 3 bungs, 2 in front of the cats, one does not have anything it, and then another bung after the cats.
Both bungs behind the cats are on top of the pipe, so basically almost impossible to access without dropping them.
So I am guessing the wideband O2 goes into that one unused bung on the pax side? The cats are gutted.
Last edited by pikkashoe; Dec 10, 2014 at 06:38 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Ok guys, need some help.
Got under the car today to check out the headers. I have PFadt headers with high flow cats that have been gutted.
On the driver side bank, there are 2 bungs, one in front of the cats, and one behind, both have o2 sensors in them.
On the passenger side, there are 3 bungs, 2 in front of the cats, one does not have anything it, and then another bung after the cats.
Both bungs behind the cats are on top of the pipe, so basically almost impossible to access without dropping them.
So I am guessing the wideband O2 goes into that one unused bung on the pax side? The cats are gutted.
Got under the car today to check out the headers. I have PFadt headers with high flow cats that have been gutted.
On the driver side bank, there are 2 bungs, one in front of the cats, and one behind, both have o2 sensors in them.
On the passenger side, there are 3 bungs, 2 in front of the cats, one does not have anything it, and then another bung after the cats.
Both bungs behind the cats are on top of the pipe, so basically almost impossible to access without dropping them.
So I am guessing the wideband O2 goes into that one unused bung on the pax side? The cats are gutted.
Are there any bungs that wouldn't be horrible to get to?
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Ok everything is almost done. Today I will install the o2 sensor. The gauge and SLP Pod are installed. and wired.
Now Im stuck trying to figure out where to get 12 v power for the AFR Module.
I currently am using the heated seats fuse for my fuel pressure sensor and curb alert. (fp is piggy back)
Another fuse in there is being used for the Alky control system, i believe its the HVAC Fuse.(i may be wrong).
Not sure where to tap now for the AFR. Can I piggy back onto the Heated seat fuse. Not sure if thats a good idea to have 3 different things running off that fuse.
Any ideas or suggestions? Are there any other 12 v switched fuses I can use?
Thanks
Now Im stuck trying to figure out where to get 12 v power for the AFR Module.
I currently am using the heated seats fuse for my fuel pressure sensor and curb alert. (fp is piggy back)
Another fuse in there is being used for the Alky control system, i believe its the HVAC Fuse.(i may be wrong).
Not sure where to tap now for the AFR. Can I piggy back onto the Heated seat fuse. Not sure if thats a good idea to have 3 different things running off that fuse.
Any ideas or suggestions? Are there any other 12 v switched fuses I can use?
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Sorry jet stream, I didn't take any pictures of the install.
It was pretty straight forward, just a pain in the butt sometimes (running o2 sensor wire thru the firewall was no fun).
I did end up having to pull the dash trim to get the wires run, there was no way around it. That was nerve racking, felt like the trim was going to crack every time I pulled on it.
I ended up just disconnecting the Fuel Pressure sensor and using the heated seat fuse for power.
So far so good, looks awesome. Thanks for the recommendation Streetk.
Jetstream, if you need help during the install, just private message me and I will help you out.
It was pretty straight forward, just a pain in the butt sometimes (running o2 sensor wire thru the firewall was no fun).
I did end up having to pull the dash trim to get the wires run, there was no way around it. That was nerve racking, felt like the trim was going to crack every time I pulled on it.
I ended up just disconnecting the Fuel Pressure sensor and using the heated seat fuse for power.
So far so good, looks awesome. Thanks for the recommendation Streetk.
Jetstream, if you need help during the install, just private message me and I will help you out.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 277
Likes: 29
From: Gretna, NE
I got my PLX gauge in the mail earlier this week. I'll probably have to refer back to this thread once it comes time to install. I'm just going to wait and do everything at once when I install my NX kit.