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Really don't want to do those, as they would be dead just on the drive there. Gila Bend is 90 miles away from me. I also don't know how much better those would hook on a unprepped surface.
Must be a tall tire you're running for those kind of speeds in 4th. My car was good for maybe 160 mph at with a 6800-6900 shift point.
I'm almost thinking you'd want something like a Hoosier drag radial, though I'm not sure what 15" sizes they come in. Hell, maybe even something like an ET Street.
Sounds like you could solve most if not all of the issues with a tire swap. But I admit I know nothing about the models mentioned.
That being said, there are some other changes you could make. Alignment is very important. You want zero rear camber. And maybe a smidge of toe in for the rear. When the rear squats the toe starts to go outwards. Which not only makes the car darty, but will not power down as well. You will have to experiment with what settings are best.
You've got your sway bar settings backwards. You want a soft rear bar. This will help the rear suspension articulate more. Again, aiding power down. A stiffer front bar will resist the front from twisting, making the rear also less likely to twist. Aiding in power down.
Coilovers may help if you can run soft spring rates. Most kits are stiffer than stock rates and will not help in this venue.
Really don't want to do those, as they would be dead just on the drive there. Gila Bend is 90 miles away from me. I also don't know how much better those would hook on a unprepped surface.
You need a friend to bring the tires and jack so you can do a wheel swap there.
I could do that, but rather drive. If the ET pros are the only way to hook better, I'll do that once these wear out, but for now I'll wear these out. Plus with all the new MT/Hoosiers coming out, I'm not going to swap tires until all of those are out.
Dead hooking 2nd on any tire with over 900whp is tough. Suspension and road surface are the two main things imo. Nice brushed concrete will help out like no other. Other than that I would go ahead and put together a waste gate and simple boost controller and setup a boost by gear. As all you need to do is get down to the power at which 2nd hooks. Should be around 850ish on those big 15s. I've also heard good things about those x275s. Gl also hit up randy and ragin racing. He has the setup I'm talking about.
You are the only person ever to say that about sway bars. Every straight fast line car is stiff rear, no or super light front.
Tires are already best as I can get besides the pro, and alignment is already spot on.
What an engineer at Pfadt racing told me when I was setting up my suspension was a little positive camber (so when the suspension loads up it will be at close to 0 camber).
run a big rear sway bar and set it as stiff as it goes to get the rear to load evenly
No front sway bar (so the front comes up as quickly as possible.) Although in a roll race I'd run the stock front because you're not trying to get a killer 60ft.
As far as suspension I've heard of people with stock suspension and shocks dragging a##. I personally went stupid with it and on m&h 17s mine dead hooks 2nd with over 950ft pounds of torque from a PD blower.
Thats running Polly motor & trans mounts, adjustable coilover with drag rated springs, spherical control arm bushings, chromoly adjustable swaybars.
I am like you I have nowhere to really use the power I have and I am not a fan of the drag strip.
Already have a bit of postive camber.
Already have poly/solid mounts.
Already running stiff rear bar, no front.
One of the reasons besides all the cool people was being able to really beat on the car and make WOT passes topping out 3rd/4th. Driving to work gets boring.
I'm surprised that your car had that much trouble hooking. You're probably making way more than 900 at sea level. I had no problem hooking at 850/800 with a 295/45-17 in the half mile.
Also, when you're on that quick pace in you videos, rev the car to 6000rpm, dump the clutch at 20-30 MPH and do a rolling burnout. You will be surprised at the difference in how they hook for a street race.
I think a lot of it was it rained all night. 1st 3-4 runs runway pavement was still dark black from the water soaked into it. Didn't dry off until later afternoon.
Look at the pavement from early in the day (right before racing that heads/cam 600rwhp z06 built by CBI/DSteck).
Like I'd said, I really think the track condition/prep is huge on these kind of events. Track looks pretty damn wet to me in that ^^^ pic.
And as for the tires, I meant something like a real bias ply ET Street. I'd even think a Hoosier DOT drag radial would be a step in the right direction. They do make a 325/50/15.
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Roll racing is the street car wave of the future IMO, we have sponsored a few events local to us and not only was the turn out huge, but the carnage afterwards was not!
Bring 100-150 high HP late model cars to the drag strip for a day and 20% of them will leave broken or not run an appropriate ET for the HP, that's reality.
Just a few things that have worked for us, not saying it's the only way, just a few things we tried and seemed to have good results.
1, stiff rear sway bar, soft rear springs so they "goosh" a little. without any sideways load the sway bar is not doing a whole lot anyway if it is set up correctly.
2, front sway bar light or removed so the nose lifts easy putting the weight on the back tires better. Adjust the coil overs to not top out too quickly or that can be an easy point of wheel spin at the moment.
3, do a burn out, or ideally use tire warmers but that's getting a little crazy for these events.
4, align the car how you want it to plant the tire best. Meaning if you look in video's and see your car squats 1.5" under a hard launch and lifts the front suspension to basically max, align the car that way. Weigh the back of the car down and raise the nose of the car on the rack and set your rear suspension to 0. Basically making it a straight axle car. The difference in alignment from being squatted down is huge, especially when using 15" spindle kits because technically the geometry of the suspension is not correct anymore.
This type of racing is still pretty new here, so we are learning as we go too, but those items seemed to of made the biggest difference. Good luck out there and be safe.
Any website to go to, to see if there are any area events?
