Cam/Header, S/C Question...
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 657
Likes: 9
From: Orlando, FL
Where were you HP/TQ wise when you just had the S/C only? That's pretty much where I want to be, hovering around 600rwhp. Think i'm going to skip all the ******** and go right to the S/C, then add the headers/x-pipe on a later date and have it retuned. Seems to be the smart thing to do rather than getting a CAI only to have to sell it later.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 572
Likes: 2
From: Carol Stream IL
Where were you HP/TQ wise when you just had the S/C only? That's pretty much where I want to be, hovering around 600rwhp. Think i'm going to skip all the ******** and go right to the S/C, then add the headers/x-pipe on a later date and have it retuned. Seems to be the smart thing to do rather than getting a CAI only to have to sell it later.
It is very hard to get traction so drag radials are my next mod followed by fuel system upgrade, 3.6" pulley and a retune. can and ported stock heads may follow.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 657
Likes: 9
From: Orlando, FL
If in stages def do ehaust with hi flo cats . Go catless with supercharger . If you are going for marginal power 1 7/8 headers . Buy used cai . Best one to get is halltech . Any one will work 103 and up with tune . Sell stock exhaust and put cash towards tune . Buy all this first stage used . Not new . Especially the exhaust . Some members are realistic with prices on for sale board . If you only want 580 to 600 . Port stock heads with eps custom cam and your there for stage II . Don't need a blower at all
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,955
Likes: 22
From: Lehigh Valley Pennsylvania
No way you get to 580 whp with that set up, maybe upper 400s. To do NA right you will need cam, a GOOD set of aftermarket heads such as AFRs, headers, full exhaust, and a FAST. Add up all the parts to do it correctly and the labor to install it and you are right at the price of a super charger, but will be maxed out. A base kit supercharger will get you 550 whp with way more ability to continue to add hp in the future.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 657
Likes: 9
From: Orlando, FL
No way you get to 580 whp with that set up, maybe upper 400s. To do NA right you will need cam, a GOOD set of aftermarket heads such as AFRs, headers, full exhaust, and a FAST. Add up all the parts to do it correctly and the labor to install it and you are right at the price of a super charger, but will be maxed out. A base kit supercharger will get you 550 whp with way more ability to continue to add hp in the future.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 657
Likes: 9
From: Orlando, FL
On a S/C setup, what size headers would work the best 1 3/4" or 1 7/8"? Is there that much of a difference? I would also want to do an X-Pipe, don't know if I should go with hi-flow cats or an offroad X-Pipe? Anyone have any suggestions? I am PUMPED, my car arrived from FLA this afternoon and is sitting in my garage just waiting for some mods!
Pro
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 572
Likes: 2
From: Carol Stream IL
On a S/C setup, what size headers would work the best 1 3/4" or 1 7/8"? Is there that much of a difference? I would also want to do an X-Pipe, don't know if I should go with hi-flow cats or an offroad X-Pipe? Anyone have any suggestions? I am PUMPED, my car arrived from FLA this afternoon and is sitting in my garage just waiting for some mods!
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Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Go with 1 7/8" so you have upside potential for mor power gains In the future if you made additional performance upgrades. Most tuners will advise you not to use a catted x-pipe with a supercharger because the cats will fail. I've heard this to be true even on stock ZR1 cars.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
My take on this after building, tuning, and owning three different blown LS cars:
1) Headers are a must in my opinion. Ditching the stock manifolds with a blower will allow you to run more timing at a given octane level, and it will eliminate the stock cats. The stock LS2/LS3 cats aren't known to last long with FI. I'd probably do headers before the blower if it's going to be one or the other right now. You don't get the bang for the buck that a blower gives you, but it's laying the foundation to make power.
2) I run high-flow cats on all of my header cars -- not because I need to for emissions reasons, but because I don't like my car to smell like my '68 Camaro did. They really don't cost any power at this level, but they are one other thing to worry about. But unless you plan to run the car REALLY hard at that ~600 RWHP level (i.e. half-mile drag racing), then I don't think I'd be worried about cat longevity. Cats also seem to smooth out the exhaust tone and reduce drone. Both are pluses in my book. With those bullets, it'll probably be a big plus for you, lol.
3) I'd recommend ARH headers based on my personal experience. Pfadt would be another choice now that they're back in business. I've had both brands, and each has things I like over the other. ARH seems to have better quality control, though. Either way, 1 7/8" is what I'd do for a blower car. I can't recommend LG headers, but I've had those too.
4) Really no need for a cam to meet your power goals. An ECS kit with headers should have no problem making what you want. Especially if you're considering meth. I've had two mildly cammed LS builds, and neither one drove like stock. So keep that in mind. Any cam that has noticeable lope is going to change how the car drives.
One of the nice things about a blower is that you can keep the driveability very much like a stock car. My current car has the stock cam still and I'm loving the stealth and manners of it. Seeing all the 700 RWHP cars ECS was building with stock cams made me a believer. If you really want more power, a cam is good for another 40 or 50 RWHP in most cases. The key is finding the happy medium where the car has usable power, and is still simple and reliable. Less is more sometimes.
1) Headers are a must in my opinion. Ditching the stock manifolds with a blower will allow you to run more timing at a given octane level, and it will eliminate the stock cats. The stock LS2/LS3 cats aren't known to last long with FI. I'd probably do headers before the blower if it's going to be one or the other right now. You don't get the bang for the buck that a blower gives you, but it's laying the foundation to make power.
2) I run high-flow cats on all of my header cars -- not because I need to for emissions reasons, but because I don't like my car to smell like my '68 Camaro did. They really don't cost any power at this level, but they are one other thing to worry about. But unless you plan to run the car REALLY hard at that ~600 RWHP level (i.e. half-mile drag racing), then I don't think I'd be worried about cat longevity. Cats also seem to smooth out the exhaust tone and reduce drone. Both are pluses in my book. With those bullets, it'll probably be a big plus for you, lol.
3) I'd recommend ARH headers based on my personal experience. Pfadt would be another choice now that they're back in business. I've had both brands, and each has things I like over the other. ARH seems to have better quality control, though. Either way, 1 7/8" is what I'd do for a blower car. I can't recommend LG headers, but I've had those too.
4) Really no need for a cam to meet your power goals. An ECS kit with headers should have no problem making what you want. Especially if you're considering meth. I've had two mildly cammed LS builds, and neither one drove like stock. So keep that in mind. Any cam that has noticeable lope is going to change how the car drives.
One of the nice things about a blower is that you can keep the driveability very much like a stock car. My current car has the stock cam still and I'm loving the stealth and manners of it. Seeing all the 700 RWHP cars ECS was building with stock cams made me a believer. If you really want more power, a cam is good for another 40 or 50 RWHP in most cases. The key is finding the happy medium where the car has usable power, and is still simple and reliable. Less is more sometimes.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 657
Likes: 9
From: Orlando, FL
My take on this after building, tuning, and owning three different blown LS cars:
1) Headers are a must in my opinion. Ditching the stock manifolds with a blower will allow you to run more timing at a given octane level, and it will eliminate the stock cats. The stock LS2/LS3 cats aren't known to last long with FI. I'd probably do headers before the blower if it's going to be one or the other right now. You don't get the bang for the buck that a blower gives you, but it's laying the foundation to make power.
2) I run high-flow cats on all of my header cars -- not because I need to for emissions reasons, but because I don't like my car to smell like my '68 Camaro did. They really don't cost any power at this level, but they are one other thing to worry about. But unless you plan to run the car REALLY hard at that ~600 RWHP level (i.e. half-mile drag racing), then I don't think I'd be worried about cat longevity. Cats also seem to smooth out the exhaust tone and reduce drone. Both are pluses in my book. With those bullets, it'll probably be a big plus for you, lol.
3) I'd recommend ARH headers based on my personal experience. Pfadt would be another choice now that they're back in business. I've had both brands, and each has things I like over the other. ARH seems to have better quality control, though. Either way, 1 7/8" is what I'd do for a blower car. I can't recommend LG headers, but I've had those too.
4) Really no need for a cam to meet your power goals. An ECS kit with headers should have no problem making what you want. Especially if you're considering meth. I've had two mildly cammed LS builds, and neither one drove like stock. So keep that in mind. Any cam that has noticeable lope is going to change how the car drives.
One of the nice things about a blower is that you can keep the driveability very much like a stock car. My current car has the stock cam still and I'm loving the stealth and manners of it. Seeing all the 700 RWHP cars ECS was building with stock cams made me a believer. If you really want more power, a cam is good for another 40 or 50 RWHP in most cases. The key is finding the happy medium where the car has usable power, and is still simple and reliable. Less is more sometimes.
1) Headers are a must in my opinion. Ditching the stock manifolds with a blower will allow you to run more timing at a given octane level, and it will eliminate the stock cats. The stock LS2/LS3 cats aren't known to last long with FI. I'd probably do headers before the blower if it's going to be one or the other right now. You don't get the bang for the buck that a blower gives you, but it's laying the foundation to make power.
2) I run high-flow cats on all of my header cars -- not because I need to for emissions reasons, but because I don't like my car to smell like my '68 Camaro did. They really don't cost any power at this level, but they are one other thing to worry about. But unless you plan to run the car REALLY hard at that ~600 RWHP level (i.e. half-mile drag racing), then I don't think I'd be worried about cat longevity. Cats also seem to smooth out the exhaust tone and reduce drone. Both are pluses in my book. With those bullets, it'll probably be a big plus for you, lol.
3) I'd recommend ARH headers based on my personal experience. Pfadt would be another choice now that they're back in business. I've had both brands, and each has things I like over the other. ARH seems to have better quality control, though. Either way, 1 7/8" is what I'd do for a blower car. I can't recommend LG headers, but I've had those too.
4) Really no need for a cam to meet your power goals. An ECS kit with headers should have no problem making what you want. Especially if you're considering meth. I've had two mildly cammed LS builds, and neither one drove like stock. So keep that in mind. Any cam that has noticeable lope is going to change how the car drives.
One of the nice things about a blower is that you can keep the driveability very much like a stock car. My current car has the stock cam still and I'm loving the stealth and manners of it. Seeing all the 700 RWHP cars ECS was building with stock cams made me a believer. If you really want more power, a cam is good for another 40 or 50 RWHP in most cases. The key is finding the happy medium where the car has usable power, and is still simple and reliable. Less is more sometimes.