I am ready to begin rebuilding my LS2 after a #7 ring land failure .

Prior to the failure the engine was.......

Stock cid
Stock heads and cam
ProCharger PS1 with 4" pulley and flip drive
Headers 1 7/8"
Marren 60# injectors
Typhoon aluminum intake manifold
Meziere electric water pump
Dewitts radiator with oil cooler

I am considering .....

Forged rotating assembly with 9.5 cr pistons, keeping my stock displacement (?)
Comp cams blower cam and valve train (need suggestions on this)
ARP fasteners
ATI balancer
Yella Terra rockers
Marren 80# injectors
D1 ProCharger
Meth kit (also need suggestions)

I need suggestions on the best timing chain. I cannot go double roller as I cannot space the timing chain cover due to the Meziere pump.

Any other suggestions/advice is appreciated.
I have a $6k budget.

Thanks

 

I'm doing a similar build now.


I would keep the compression ratio between 10 and 10.5:1(stock is 10.9 on an LS2).
D1SC
Dual nozzle Alky Meth
Jam Cam kit from Brian Tooley Racing, this is going in my build but depending on how you want it to drive may not fit your needs.
10% OD balancer. I like my Innovators west balancer
C5R timing chain from Katech.

I dont think rockers are necessary.
Never heard of Marren Injectors. I'd use Injector Dynamics or FIC personally.

 

Hinson Motor Sports is selling the C7-R timing chain and claim that it is way better than the C5-R chain. It would be worth a call to them.

http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-294...ing-chain.aspx

BJK

 

C7R racecars still use the C5R chain. Hinsons C7R chain is just a marketing name as far as I know. I havent used a C7R chain but will be using the C5R chain in my new build.

 

What are you wanting to get out of the build?

Unless you're going all out, I'd try to keep it simple. Forged rods/pistons + stock crank if it's OK. Personally I'd do compstar rods and Wiseco pistons.

ARP fasteners are a given

ATI makes a nice piece. Whether it's needed or not, I do not know. I wouldn't be running the stock one, that is for sure (mine came apart on a base ECS kit in about 5 minutes)

Also not sure the rockers are necessary.

Is decent data available on them? Might consider ID's. Someone on here sells them pretty cheap. PM if you are interested.

Meth kit.. yes. Definitely. The Alkycontrol kit has nice braided lines, no push lock plastic stuff that can come off, so that is what I would (and am going to) get. FSP has a good price on the kit.

 

Thanks all.

I have gotten some good pricing from Hinson on a Lunati crank and rods with Wiseco pistons.

From what I can find out, most steel cranks, even Callie, are forged in China, so I am assuming that is what we are stuck with unless your budget is north of $2500 for just a crank. Mine is not.

Looks like I will also be getting:
Clevite bearings
C7-R timing chain
ARP main and head studs
Comp cam
Lunati springs, steel retainers

The jury is still out on the exact compression ratio pistons, cam specs, damper (although Hinson has a good price on a Powerbond unit) and if I should send the PS1 ProCharger head unit back to the factory for a D1 upgrade or just pulley-down the PS1?

I am also thinking about the Comp Cam trunion upgrade.

I think with the above using the PS1 with a 3.4" pulley ( ProCharger said 14 pounds of boost) , a Meth kit and a conservative tune, I should be in the 650 rwhp range.

Experts, am I thinking right?

 

If they are all forged in China, then you don't have much of a choice.. As long as the final machining and QC are done here in the US before being sent out, then I would be OK with it

I would certainly hope you end up with at least 650rwhp. People are making that on stock bottom ends w/meth.

I have no idea how how much either of those blowers will support though, so I am of little help there.

Is that what you are basically after ultimately, 650rwhp?

 

this is basically what my last setup was, on D1SC with 243 heads and garbage procharger dongle, and random other issues it made 760/700 with 402ci stroked ls2 at just 12.5psi about. Rockers are not necessary, go with stock, you should be able to get away with stock crank but depending on your ultimate goals might want to upgrade while it's apart. Alky Control meth kit should be required imo, helps so much if running on pump gas.

I ended up just upgrading my whole setup to handle much bigger power goals in the future also so I have tons of stuff leftover from my old setup if you want it, I'll make you a good deal.

 

I'd think it would be much cheaper to have ATI rebuild to D1. (same housing) Spinning a P1 to 14psi would be hard on it. The one thing I would definitely do is go with the DP Big Mouth filter. With the engine out now's the time to tip the rad and intercooler.

 

It all depends on his final goals which he hasnt stated. If you want 650rwhp a forged rods/pistons/p1 can do it. If you want 800+ you want something else entirely.

DP bigmouth is a good upgrade.

 

Mr Big ran big power through a P1 and is clearly capable of it but the blower is out now so now's the time. My P1 has been in for 10 years but I often thought about that upgrade.

 

Agreed. Would upgrade if I wanted more power than the p1 and had room in the budget.

 

I'd certainly do the D1 upgrade if you can swing it, it will run better and you'll have room to grow. 600-650whp is fun but believe me you will want more, on Nt05r tires my c6 hooked up 2nd gear 100% and so 600whp wasn't as "fast" feeling as I had expected although obviously a mean street machine. I'd think with that small of a blower pulley and assuming you have a 6 rib belt setup, that you'd probably have some belt slip issues, so you should be able to make more power with a D1 and much less pulley, I guess you could also just keep the P1 and put a 100 shot on it? cool the intake charge, crazy torque and cheaper?

the big intake upgrade is a great one and seems like you can do it cheaply if you just get the parts and do it yourself, a lot of guys have shown >40whp gains just from a bigger/better intake but also I spoke with someone at procharger just earlier today and they stated they thought a lot of high rpm belt slip issues with P1 and D1 setups on corvettes is from the restrictive intake and that guys who upgrade to a much bigger intake often see their belt slip issues go away and they gain as much as 2 psi of boost, so not just for hp reasons but for reliability and belt issues I'd recomend it.

I was having some minor belt slip issues with a 3.9" pulley (and 8" crank pulley) on my setup and am having the corner of my dewitts radiator cut right now so that I can run a huge 4" intake setup

 

Alright, alright, alright......

Pulled the trigger on my parts today. Here's the list......

Lunati 4" forged stroker crankshaft. Should work out to 408 cid
Lunati H-Beam rods w/ARP bolts
Wiseco 20cc dished forged Pistons, 4.005 dia and a 9.6 compression ratio
Power bond steel balancer
Melling hi-volume oil pump.
CompCams trunion upgrade kit
Lunati .660 dual valve springs w/steel retainers
Marren 80# flowed and matched injectors
CompCam blower cam
Kooks 1 7/8" headers
Meziere electric water pump
Dewitt's radiator w/ EOC
Textraila clutch, flywheel kit including new hyd TO bearing
Cleavage H-series main, rod, and cam bearings
ARP main studs and heads studs
C7-R timing chain
ProCharger D1 w/ Intercooler
Meth kit ( to be determined)
Flip Drive

With a mild blower cam, meth, and 12 pounds of boost, I hope to see 650 rwhp
Probably be looking at a better fuel delivery system, too.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and advice.

Comments welcomed.

 

650rwhp won't be a problem, that's for sure. 12 psi on a 408 is no joke.

I would consider going slightly higher on the compression ratio. Maybe 10:1 or even a little bit more than that.

Nice crank/rods/pistons. Most of this parts list is overkill for 650RWHP, but you'll at least be good to go if you ever want to turn it up some more.

How much did that clutch cost and how much HP (or torque rather I guess) will it handle, if you don't mind me asking? I am in the market for one and have been eyeing the Mantic 9000.

Can you post a part number for that balancer? Just want to make sure it's not the one I got that I ended up sending back.

Keep us updated with pictures!

 

The balancer is an all steel unit from powerbond. Hinson Motorsports have it on their website. It comes with a taller outside rim rails and stock diameter. It is also keyed, as is my Lunati crank. It is suppose to be a good alternative to the ATI ???
I am going to keep the 9.5 Wisecos, as I can always crank up the boost on the D1.
Should have all the parts in a week or two, and I will post some pics.
I bough the clutch from Corvette Garage, a forum vendor that I have a history with. It is a Z06 clutch and flywheel, and with pilot bearing and new hydraulic TO bearing, I think the cost was in the $800 range. As I don't drag race or do burn outs, etc, this clutch should be all I need. Heck, the stock clutch went 76k miles and was still grabbing smoothly when the piston failed. The only reason I am upgrading is the motor is out of the car and now was the time to do it!

 

 

Sounds good.

9.5:1 will be fine and will still vary depending on how much heads are milled, etc. Might as well change the clutch while it's out. I'm afraid to go too crazy on mine as I don't think it will last very long

Is someone else doing the assembly?

I, too, like "Cleavage" bearings

 

Damn spell check. Yep, a new clutch, flywheel and TO bearing is on the way.