When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It is an A6 car, so it may be ~540-550rwhp now, since it has ported heads and a small cam. Car does not have headers or any exhaust mods. I would have it dyno'd before I seriously consider it. I drove the car, and it runs well. I'm not looking for a 9-second car, or I'd consider something else.
Just looking to see what the power limit is with the E-force blower. Anyone swapped pulleys on one? I live in Texas, so heat is a factor, and I'm well-versed in the understanding that overspinning a blower beyond its efficiency range yields very little positive results power-wise, while compromising reliability.
If you're an average weekend warrior I'd be looking at how much of that potential power is actually "useable" power as well.
Most likely I would put some 345/30-19 NT05R tires on the rear for street use... so that will help. but I completely understand your point. I'd like to know the threshold so I can keep things dialed back a bit for reliability purposes.
Made 780 with the 2.75 pulley but that was on a 402 with heads, cam, headers, meth, etc. On the stock LS2 with just heads and headers I made 620 if I remember right.
Bought this car today. Has the LPE package mentioned above. A6 trans.
Had it dyno'd before I finalized the purchase. 588rwhp corrected.
Gonna add headers/hi-flow cats, smaller pulley, and a larger in-tank pump. Maybe get 620-630rwhp out of it.
That's a really nice looking GS!! Congrats!
I bet you're going to be really happy when you add headers! I would do the ARH 1 7/8" with high flow cats and then pulley it down. You could also do a small "blower" cam that's near stock sounding that will pick you up another 30-50hp.
That's a really nice looking GS!! Congrats!
I bet you're going to be really happy when you add headers! I would do the ARH 1 7/8" with high flow cats and then pulley it down. You could also do a small "blower" cam that's near stock sounding that will pick you up another 30-50hp.
Thanks! Yes, I'm planning on headers w/ hi-flows, and a slightly smaller pulley. It already has the Lingenfelter GT9 cam... which isn't big, but plenty to get it to pull hard to the 6500rpm shift point.
Thanks! Yes, I'm planning on headers w/ hi-flows, and a slightly smaller pulley. It already has the Lingenfelter GT9 cam... which isn't big, but plenty to get it to pull hard to the 6500rpm shift point.
What size pulley is on it now? Beautiful car. After the long tubes, it shouldn't need much other than a little tweak here and there.
What size pulley is on it now? Beautiful car. After the long tubes, it shouldn't need much other than a little tweak here and there.
Thanks for the compliment on the car.
Pretty sure its the 3.5" pulley. So I should be able to go to a 3.25" or so. Hate to go too small, or else I think belt slip will be an issue...not to mention potentially overspinning the blower.
I'm not trying to break power records with this combo. The power needs to be useable. And honestly, it runs really well now. I just know with any blower/turbo setup, exhaust mods are important to maximize the combination.
For it to make 585+rwhp with no exhaust work is pretty darn good, I think. Obviously it has a quality set of heads, and the cam is plenty big for an A6 car set up for street driving.
If you make sure you have the updated stronger tensioner, and use a larger idler pulley,(increases belt wrap at blower pulley) you can run the smallest pulley (2.75) with no slip at all.
I happen to have extras of both if you are interested. I got the info from the engineer at edelbrock while talking with him at SEMA, and he was right. Worked like a charm.
If you make sure you have the updated stronger tensioner, and use a larger idler pulley,(increases belt wrap at blower pulley) you can run the smallest pulley (2.75) with no slip at all.
I happen to have extras of both if you are interested. I got the info from the engineer at edelbrock while talking with him at SEMA, and he was right. Worked like a charm.
This is great info. Yes, my biggest concern was belt wrap. I don't know if I have the updated tensioner or not. Is there any way to identify it compared to the standard one?
I'm going to install a larger in-tank pump, but I do _not_ want to install an alky/meth kit. We have 93 octane here, and I have an excellent tuner locally, that will keep things conservative.
What kind of boost difference is there going from 3.5 to 3.0 and/or 2.75? there is no boost gauge installed, so I have no idea what kind of boost I'm making.
I really don't remember the differences in boost from the different pulleys. I am getting old. LOL.. With the 2.75 I was making about 12.5 ish and then it peaked near 14 at the top. Eforces creep up in boost at high rpm. Then again every combo will make slightly different boost numbers.
The updated tensioner is bigger, but unless they were side by side I don't know how you could tell. If you know the date the eforce was purchased that would probably say because they started including it after a certain date. If you call them they could tell you when.
This is the newer one. The tensioner itself is larger as is the spring.
If you find you need one, and the larger idler which is the most help, let me know. I have them both hardly used.
If you're running a 3.5" now, you're looking at an additional 2 to 2.5psi increase going to the 3.25". Personally, I'd add the 3.25" pulley, long tubes, go catless if you can, and add bi-mode mufflers. They would make for a fun street ride that shouldn't give you a lot of trouble in the future. Probably a good 100+ hp north of stock ZR1 levels. If you don't mind a greater possibility of tearing stuff up, go to the 3.00" pulley. Probably need some extra octane at that point too.
If you're running a 3.5" now, you're looking at an additional 2 to 2.5psi increase going to the 3.25". Personally, I'd add the 3.25" pulley, long tubes, go catless if you can, and add bi-mode mufflers. They would make for a fun street ride that shouldn't give you a lot of trouble in the future. Probably a good 100+ hp north of stock ZR1 levels. If you don't mind a greater possibility of tearing stuff up, go to the 3.00" pulley. Probably need some extra octane at that point too.
Thanks guys.
realcanuck, I do not have that idler on mine, I know that for sure. It would be tough to determine if I have the better bracket.
oldmotorhead, your plan is right in line with what I'm going to do. Not going to go catless... I don't like the smell, and we have emission-police everywhere here in my N. Dallas county. The car has the bi-mode mufflers with the electronic switch...so that's done already. I have no need to make this a radical setup, or I would have gone a different route in the first place. I just want to do the sensible things to an already good setup. Engine 101 says headers are a no-brainer, given the drastically improved intake side of the equation. I'm all about keeping a safe threshold. I'm too old, and have blown up enough stuff in my years of hot-rodding and drag-racing that I've learned all about cutting-edge, and I have no intention of pushing it.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.