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Always, always compare the tune from your car/pcm to the stock one before doing ANY tuning by yourself.
The trick is of course to have something to compare and pro shops can easily do this, since they build new cars among others and have access to stock tunes. Tech II is another option. And HPT repository does this as well, as long as you make sure there's enough identical stock tunes..
I agree and had compared my tune 1000 times to a stock one from the HP repository. Probably the only thing I never compared was the codes being on or off since I never had a code come up in 5 years. Why the original tuner would shut them off is beyond me, but lesson learned on that one. Check EVERYTHING
I agree and had compared my tune 1000 times to a stock one from the HP repository. Probably the only thing I never compared was the codes being on or off since I never had a code come up in 5 years. Why the original tuner would shut them off is beyond me, but lesson learned on that one. Check EVERYTHING
Yep.
For other folks: if you just select "compare" (in HP Tuners) and "view comparison log" it does NOT show the difference between DTC codes.
Check the difference from the Engine Diag -section. Always.
I've had something similar happen two times in the last few weeks. It's been right after a quick stab of the throttle but not quite WOT. SAH, STC, REP and CEL. Code is P0606 which is PCM failure. After restart everything is clear except the CEL which I clear with scanner and all is well.
Last edited by marathon; May 12, 2015 at 11:54 AM.
-->I recently used this thread (and the associated other ones) to help with my own reduced engine power p2138 p1516 p2135 p0122 p2101 etc
issue I had on my 05 c6. To (hopefully) assist others I will post my experience...
My C6 was running great till about a month ago when I would get the dreaded (and very common) reduced engine power code associated with a bad throttle body, pedal sensor, etc. With past experience of working on my 04 Silverado 5.3 I assumed it was the throttle body and replaced it. No luck. same issue. so I researched for hours and found this technical bulletin by GM: SB-10028831-8729
One part of this bulletin states:
Verify that after market equipment is not electrically connected to any of the APP sensor signal or low reference circuits or to any other ECM/PCM 5V reference or low reference circuits. Refer to Checking Aftermarket Accessories in SI.
I thought for a minute and realized that I replaced the radio, speakers, and radio interface(the box used in-between the car radio plugs and the new stereo) the same week the issues started. Now I thought to my self how would that effect anything the the engine wiring? its a great question, really. Well taking a leap I replaced the new Radio interface (Crux SOCGM-17C Wiring Interface) that was just installed and re-installed the prior aftermarket radio interface (PAC OS-2bose I believe). This fixed the issues created.
Now doing more research I found one wire that potentially may be the culprit: I found in the wiring schematics that the radio does actually have a dark green / white wire # 817 on the schematic connecting the radio to the instrument cluster to the radio back thru the fuse box and back to the ecm. The wire is labeled VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and I believe is somehow the reason for my issues.
other notes to consider: The PAC interface seems to be built better and it came with better instructions than the Crux interface. I only used the Crux because crutchfield recommended it for my install.
the bulletin also states to "Locate the IP to body harness connector , which may be located in and around the left hand kick panel area or inside the IP. Depending on the vehicle and model year, refer to Wiring Systems or Power and Signal Distribution in SI. Note: Some examples of potential water leaks are: A-pillar seals, sunroof drain lines (if equipped) and windshield/cowl sealing."
I inspected this connector and found no issues on my C6
I fought this headache for years at first it would happen randomly and seemed to be more pridominat when I would sit at a red light on a hot day and go to take off then boom R.E.P.
Service active handling.... I did everything from clean grounds to checking my main fuse box connection.... it drove me bat #@$! Crazy. Then towards the end it would do it almost every time I would drive it. So I replaced my throttle pedal because I already had a tpis 102 throttle body and didn't want to buy another 600 dollar throttle body after this one was only a year or 2 old. I even had my tuner try and alter the tune to get it to stop.... finally I bought a NW 102. Put it on and haven't had a problem since..
Old post I know, but are you saying that replacing your throttle body fixed the service active handling? I have tried everything under the sun to fix the SAH, even had it with a GM master technician for months...
Old post I know, but are you saying that replacing your throttle body fixed the service active handling? I have tried everything under the sun to fix the SAH, even had it with a GM master technician for months...
look up issues with the active handling and c6 corvettes on the nhtsa, I left my steering wheel sensor connector unplugged in order to disable active handling for good. Traction control and abs still works. My advice is to not use it. There’s also a recall in the same connector.
Old post I know, but are you saying that replacing your throttle body fixed the service active handling? I have tried everything under the sun to fix the SAH, even had it with a GM master technician for months...
PM me if you need help going through it. I can help you isolate the problem.
