GaragedLS2

The revision of the oil-less turbos have zerk fittings for on site servicing. I believe the intervals are still 50k miles though.

Update on whats going on. I talked to Ryne Cunningham today and he first said my clutch wont hold the power I'm trying to make which is a bummer. I might have to try to sell this one and grab something else. Secondly, they are moving shop and cant accept any appointments at the moment due to that. I will call him next week to get an update on whats happening and try to get an appointment to install the clutch, fuel system, flex fuel setup and tune the car.

Sometimes I just wish I had a garage big enough to install a 2 post lift

Blackonblacksls

You can do all of the above in the garage. On jackstands

GaragedLS2

You have experience doing this in your garage? I was worried about clearance. I talked to Mike at CMS and he said that they dont drop the rear for this project either, which kind of surprised me. I have no problem buying a few extra things to get this done as it'll be a nice chunk to get the clutch and fuel installed by them. I just dont want to start breaking sensors, running into clearances etc.

Blackonblacksls

I did a clutch and trans swap in my driveway once.

Just so I could work on the car little by little after work, and not have to fight traffic driving to and from The shop...

schpenxel

I've pulled the clutch out of mine 2 or 3 times + another time I pulled the torque tube apart.. all on a concrete patio outside. It's doable.

I highly recommend a jack "crossbeam" from harbor freight if you do decide to do it. It does a great job of supporting the rear cradle. Also, their cheapo scissor style transmission jack is good for supporting the front of the torque tube to get it out from underneath the car.

It's basically just H pipe, a few rear suspension bolts, rear cradle, rear brake lines, transmission electrical connectors, torque tube to bell housing bolts, clutch hydraulics connector (total PITA, it's near the washer tank behind the fender). Probably missed some stuff, but it's not as bad as it looks

GaragedLS2

Good to hear that. I'd consider myself to be pretty competent when it comes to cars so it's really not daunting to me, I'm more concerned with having the proper clearance to remove stuff and the proper tools and/or supporting devices.

Its funny you mention the harbor freight trans jack, I was just eyeballing that. Seems like a pretty nifty piece to have laying around and iirc it was like 45 bucks. I'll grab that and an actual trans "jack", maybe a couple more jack stands and tackle this myself. I'd rather invest in the tools for future use than to pay someone for their time. I quite enjoying wrenching on the car anyhow so it's a win/win.

Do you know if the crosstube and the fuel tanks are readily available once the rear cradle, trans and suspension is out of the way? If so, it might make the install on the fore system that much easier.

schpenxel

They are much easier to access with the transmission out of the way. I think I have a picture of it, I'll post tomorrow if I can find it. I need to get to bed before the gf kills me.

I know some shops pull the drivetrain to get clear access to the fuel tanks when installing new fuel systems. Although not required, it greatly improves visibility and helps when trying not to screw up any o-rings, etc.

I almost pulled my tanks last time I had the driveline out just to install some bulkhead fitting in case I ever added a fuel system.. but didn't. It would be much, much easier to do with it out though.

edit: I have also pulled the passenger side tank with the transmission installed, and it is a bastard. I will not do that again. I would rather pull the driveline than pull that tank out blind again. I have scars on my arms (literally) from that one

GaragedLS2

I found a couple pics of clutch installs or driveline removal threads and it seems that with the trans out there is a pretty clear view of the cross tube. From what I've read that seems to be the biggest PITA when removing the tanks. This is making me optimistic in doing that job myself. I need to install the coilovers as well so I'd be removing most of what is involved to take out the cradle anyhow. Guess I'll tear my car apart once I get all the jacks, stands etc. to do it.

Appreciate all the feedback, its been very helpful.

schpenxel

Here's a couple of pictures of mine. The transmission jack at the front of the torque tube will NOT reach the torque tube while it's installed.. but I got it as close as I could then when the torque tube came out the jack caught it and supported it

Couple of things I've learned:
-You don't have to remove complete shifter. Just remove the "top" half with the shifter ****/rod. The box itself can stay
-Don't have to fully remove shocks. Just remove top two bolts where it mounts to the car. You may have to remove them all the way if you need more clearance, but otherwise you don't have to
-Don't have to remove axle-back portion of the exhaust system unless you just need to to have more clearance
-I'm not sure, but I think you can get by leaving the rear sway bar on also, IF you aren't removing the axle-back. Not 100% sure, though.
-You have to remove part of the bell housing which is a total pain. You'll need some flex sockets and a lot of extensions to get to it. There's a wiring harness that is in the way for one of the bolts, so I used a long pry bar to hold it out of the way long enough to get a socket on the bolt. It's a fun one.
-The clutch hydraulic connection is a pain in the ***. Getting it apart I used a pick tool to remove the clip that holds the connection together then it came apart fine. Getting it back together is sometimes more difficult due to how tight it is. The connection is down below the clutch/brake master cylinder. Best access I've found is by taking the driver fender off or at least removing enough bolts so you can swing it outwards

NYOverlord

I'm selling my stock GM LS7 manifolds if anyone is interested for their turbo set up........

satta3

I am installing oil less comps on my C5 right now. Can you tell me how and where you routed your lines. I am running into issues finding a cool enough spot around my headers to bring the lines from.

HELP!

GaragedLS2

I ran the lines up through the passenger side rocker panel and behind the fuse box, into the heater lines. They sit far away from anything hot and with the braided line they sit pretty well up and away from anything vital or moving.

MRc5z

update on this build??

irun4cops

I'm wondering if i could use these turbos on the UPP turbo kit for a c7. Since you have used them, what are your thoughts or advise? Come see the UPP turbo threads on the c7 thread and chime in there as well if you are interested. Or just get back to me here. Thanks

harveyjl

service intervals are 3-5k miles. the grease is only sold through them and it 150 or so. I looked into swapping them out with my precision turbos, but if I have to run water to the turbo whats the difference i will just save the money and keep turbos that use the oil. they still require lines, and then they require grease on top of that. Just my opinion but I hope it works out, cant wait to see the end results.