Engine Go Boom
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,119
Likes: 96
From: Asheville NC
Engine Go Boom
I am wondering how many of you are running nitrous safely and how long?
Has anyone here had any issues with nitrous and engine failure?
From what I read a dry shot can lean out the engine and cause damage so I think the fuel pump has to be fooled into sending more fuel when the car is juiced. Wet seems safer but the throttle body could flood with gas and nitrous if a part fails.
You here a lot of guys with no experience saying it really bad but it would be nice to see how many happy, responsible users there are compared to the actual horror stories.
Has anyone here had any issues with nitrous and engine failure?
From what I read a dry shot can lean out the engine and cause damage so I think the fuel pump has to be fooled into sending more fuel when the car is juiced. Wet seems safer but the throttle body could flood with gas and nitrous if a part fails.
You here a lot of guys with no experience saying it really bad but it would be nice to see how many happy, responsible users there are compared to the actual horror stories.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,730
Likes: 93
From: St. Petersburg Florida
There's probably hundreds of threads asking the same thing. Wet will be the easiest. Get a quality kit, I prefer using an electronic controller. I used the NOS two stage with window switch for extra safety. I have mine activate at anything over 75% throttle above 3700rpms and turn off 75rpms before redline. General rule of thumb is pull 2* per 50hp (conservative)
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,119
Likes: 96
From: Asheville NC
There's probably hundreds of threads asking the same thing. Wet will be the easiest. Get a quality kit, I prefer using an electronic controller. I used the NOS two stage with window switch for extra safety. I have mine activate at anything over 75% throttle above 3700rpms and turn off 75rpms before redline. General rule of thumb is pull 2* per 50hp (conservative)
Racer
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 258
Likes: 5
From: Columbia SC
Nitrous gets a bad rep because anybody and there brother can afford a basic kit for $500 with no safety features and throws it on anything and set it up all fast and furious to a button and blow there shiz up. If done correctly wet or dry it is no less safe than any other type of forced induction. All in all things/parts do go bad so adding as many failsafes as you can is the best way to minimize risk.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,730
Likes: 93
From: St. Petersburg Florida
I was curious. It seems like a wet system would be safer but then again their are two solenoids to deal with. If the fuel solenoid fails then the car would get detonation and cause damage. With the dry kit the MAF has to sense the extra air and add the correct amount of fuel. I guess both have their issues.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 12
From: The only state to ever kick another country's ass! TEXAS
I have always preferred the wet kits and done very well with them. That said, I think the dry kit has some good advantages on an LS engine. One major advantage is that you eliminate the risk of leaning out the rear cylinders. The LS manifold just isn't designed for fuel. Don't get me wrong, many do it without issues, but I don't care for it. To me, the best setup for an LS is direct port, but if you don't go dp, dry would be my next choice. You do have to make sure you have enough injector and fuel for the shot you want to run. With a direct port or wet kit you only need the fuel and can add a standalone fuel system if you prefer so you are not relying on the factory pump for the enrichment fuel. Like others have said, set up correctly, nitrous works fine and can be very reliable. I used it for years and still like it, just decided to try a blower this go around.
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 341
Likes: 2
From: Worcester MA
+1 on wet kit. Just make sure you have all safety features. Cheaper to spend 1500 on a great kit and controller than 10+ k on a re build. Also stay with reputable brands like Nitrous outlet or NX.
Also I may be a bit paranoid but I run a shut off valve by my right leg. After a run at the track I shut the valve. This way of the solenoid ever stuck open for some reason I wouldn't have an explosion. I have seen what that can do and it's not pretty.
2008 JSB- mods - air raid intake, XS power headers, Corsa sport exhaust, Lingenfelter 2 step launch, MT drag radials, MGW shifter, Nitrous outlet dual stage plate kit, HSW controller and LS9X clutch kit. 10.8 at 132mph
Also I may be a bit paranoid but I run a shut off valve by my right leg. After a run at the track I shut the valve. This way of the solenoid ever stuck open for some reason I wouldn't have an explosion. I have seen what that can do and it's not pretty.
2008 JSB- mods - air raid intake, XS power headers, Corsa sport exhaust, Lingenfelter 2 step launch, MT drag radials, MGW shifter, Nitrous outlet dual stage plate kit, HSW controller and LS9X clutch kit. 10.8 at 132mph
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 757
Likes: 47
From: Tracy CA
I had up to a 200 shot on a 2008 stock longblock ls3 and stock fuel pump with no issues. Spray worked flawlessly every pass. It was a NX plate system. Would always change the jets out between 50-200. Had it on a window switch coming on at 3000 and off at 6800. I did take the nitrous off but made 105 nitrous passes and never missed a beat.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 8,003
Likes: 249
From: Tampa Fl
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
I like the wet shot better than the dry. The wet shot is less dependent on your fueling system because it act as part of your fuel. unless you want to use a calibration platform to switch your calibration from track days spray and normal driving use, you'd really like the Lingenfelter LNC 2000 units.
Set it up to pull 2 or 3 degrees of timing per 50 shot, and you don't have to switch calibration. I've had really good success with it.
What you don't want to do is spray meth or NO2 before your MAF thinking it will add extra fuel because of the extra airflow, but it wont.
Kyle use 3 degrees per 50 shot for a conservative approach, then after a scan of WOT, check your numbers, maybe you can dial it to two. Id rather waste a bottle starting out at 9 degrees of retarding on a 150 shot, than do a rebuilt.
Spray and pray!
Enjoy
Phil
Set it up to pull 2 or 3 degrees of timing per 50 shot, and you don't have to switch calibration. I've had really good success with it.
What you don't want to do is spray meth or NO2 before your MAF thinking it will add extra fuel because of the extra airflow, but it wont.
Kyle use 3 degrees per 50 shot for a conservative approach, then after a scan of WOT, check your numbers, maybe you can dial it to two. Id rather waste a bottle starting out at 9 degrees of retarding on a 150 shot, than do a rebuilt.
Spray and pray!
Enjoy
Phil