Racetronix Installation Guide - BAP
Problem is around installation, as there are no manuals for reference. I guess their website is having technical issues.
I appreciate your help on how to install. See link for my thread.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1591204114
Last edited by VetteArts; Dec 29, 2015 at 08:21 AM.
ECS bap has 4 wires. Input +, output +, ground and a signal wire to tell it when to turn up the voltage.
Racetronix harness will be installed like unreal already said. Back of alternator on one end, run through wheel well, unplug factory fuel pump connector and plug into connectors on racetronix harness
Near the racetronix harness end that's at the fuel pump there's a 1 pin weather pack connector. Unplug this. Bap will splice in here
When using racetronix harness the input + will basically connect to the wire that's going to be connected to the alternator.
Bap output + will go forwards fuel pump
Negative just get a clean spot on something that's solid metal and screw it down
Signal wire on ECS one is weird. When connected to ground the bap is OFF. When disconnected it's on. Most other Bap's are backwards from this. For ECS one you run wire from signal wire to one side of Hobbs switch. Other wire on Hobbs goes to ground.






https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-fall-19.html
Also, below is a pic of where I mounted the alternator harness up front on the radiator shroud, since it runs a bit long.
Hope all of this helps. If you run into any problems or have any specific questions, just post back on here.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
The racetronix harness is super easy to install. Disconnect the battery first! The positive ring (red) goes to the alternator post. The fuse holder can be installed somewhere in the engine bay with a screw. So to do this remove the rear drivers side wheel and liner. Run the long wire (red) along with the fuse holder to the front (engine bay)using the rocker panel area. You can run the KB BAP long wire (not the controller ****) to the engine bay at the same time. There is like a foam padding that you will see once you remove the liner that blocks the rocker panel. Just remove it for now. Disconnect the connectors to the fuel pump inside the wheel well. Drill a small hole that you can use one of the self tapered screws in the wheel area towards the front and grind the area around the hole to expose the bare metal. Attach the the ground ring (black) of the racetronix harness and using the same hole attach the ground of the KB BAP (black) and finally the relay. You may need a longer screw and possibly a wider washer so the head of the screw doesn't just go trough the ground rings. Also make sure that the connectors from the racetronix harness reach the fuel pump connectors. At this time connect the harness to the pump and oem connector to the harness. If you bought the little weather pack connector from racetronix then disconnect the little connector at the harness. Using the little connector that you bought both male and female you have to crimp to the KB BAP. There should be two red cables from the KB BAP, one thick and one thin. The thick should have the fuse holder. You can cut the fuse holder since the racetronix harness already has a fuse holder. That side (thick red) will connect to the relay side on the harness and the other (thin red) to the side that goes towards the fuel pump connector. Pay close attention to the connector while being crimped to the KB BAP positive cables (red) as the male or female is going to matter. If you screw this part up well you need a new connector. The KB BAP controller is not used and in reality you don't want to lower the voltage at any point. What you do is cut the cables for the controller long enough where you can crimp them together. The other long cable from the KB BAP that was routed to the engine bay needs to be split and each side connected to the Hobbs switch using ring connectors. You can run a vacuum line to the Hobbs at this point. Now attach the KB BAP to the frame towards the front and you may have to test fit the liner just to make sure is not blocking the installation of the liner. Since the frame is curved you may only be able to use 3 out of 4 screws. You should be done at this point, except to install the foam, liner and wheel.
Everything I wrote here is straight from my head so I may have missed something so please review carefully.
Last edited by Pitufina; Dec 31, 2015 at 05:16 PM.
Basically you need a small wire to act as a signal for when the BAP is supposed to come on.
It goes:
Ground<--->one side of hobbs
then
Other side of hobbs<--->boost a pump signal wire on BAP unit
On the ECS BAP if the wire is connected to ground then the BAP is OFF. If it's not connected to anything, BAP is ON
I haven't used the other ones so they may be different.
Last edited by schpenxel; Mar 23, 2016 at 02:46 PM.
very easy install but somewhat time consuming.
I first started with both left tires off.
Unscrew 3 7mm screws to expose washer fluid reservoir.
Unscrew 6 7mm screws of left rear fender liner (look under rocker panel for one of the screws)
I ran the wires from the alternator towards the fill neck of the washer reservoir and down the inner fender well alongside the washer reservoir.
I ran the wires from alongside the rocker panel and stuffed the wire best I could in between bottom floorboard/rocker panel (I got it 70%tucked)
I installed the fuse relay next to the OEM mounted fuel pump harness connector using the provided self tapping screw.
i then took sand paper and sanded down to bare metal the bolt hole where the brake duct attactches to frame. I used the ground wire against the sanded frame and the put the fender liner hole and brake duct support on the same hole. Ground->Fender Liner->Brake Duct-> 7mm
ziptie remaining loose wires inside fiberglass sound deadening bag/inner wheel well
Done.
Last edited by Costa T.; Dec 27, 2025 at 08:08 AM. Reason: Misspell









