D1sc with shot ! Help
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From: Forney TX
That lean spike in your run is enough to hurt your motor. You're going from too rich to too lean. That needs to be solved for sure. I also recommend capping the blower inlet off, removing the brake booster line and pressurizing everything to 10psi to make sure you don't have any boost leaks. This is something that I do on every car before I tune and I've seen leaks from all kinds of places from cracked intercooler tank welds to stuck BOV's, cracked intake manifolds, torn or holes in silicone couplers etc. I find leaks often enough to justify testing each and every car.
I have a C5 customer that just below maxing out his D1, making 797whp with the graph still climbing because they lifted off the pedal early.
suggestions:
Fix the fuel supply issue
solve the fuel supply issue
get good filter and blower inlet pipe
retune the car
I have a C5 customer that just below maxing out his D1, making 797whp with the graph still climbing because they lifted off the pedal early.
suggestions:
Fix the fuel supply issue
solve the fuel supply issue
get good filter and blower inlet pipe
retune the car
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Offering products from A&A Superchargers, East Coast Superchargers, Mechman Alternators, Mantic clutches, RPS clutches, Kooks Headers, Lakewood, LG, Brian Tooley Racing, Comp Cams, FAST, ARP, UPP Turbo systems, Wiseco, Callies, K1, MAST Motorsports, Haltech and many more. PM me for details.
Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance; May 19, 2016 at 10:28 AM.
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Thread Starter
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That lean spike in your run is enough to hurt your motor. You're going from too rich to too lean. That needs to be solved for sure. I also recommend capping the blower inlet off, removing the brake booster line and pressurizing everything to 10psi to make sure you don't have any boost leaks. This is something that I do on every car before I tune and I've seen leaks from all kinds of places from cracked intercooler tank welds to stuck BOV's, cracked intake manifolds, torn or holes in silicone couplers etc. I find leaks often enough to justify testing each and every car.
I have a C5 customer that just below maxing out his D1, making 797whp with the graph still climbing because they lifted off the pedal early.
suggestions:
Fix the fuel supply issue
solve the fuel supply issue
get good filter and blower inlet pipe
retune the car
I have a C5 customer that just below maxing out his D1, making 797whp with the graph still climbing because they lifted off the pedal early.
suggestions:
Fix the fuel supply issue
solve the fuel supply issue
get good filter and blower inlet pipe
retune the car
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 123
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There is a tensioner on the supercharger side as well you either use the stock Procharger one or the Cartek. I have no doubt the Cartek Billet tensioner is much better than the procharger one as well.
Having a more dedicated blower belt that only goes around the Balancer, Blower, tensioner/idler, and part of the water pump makes a big difference. Tighter wrap around the crank especially is huge. Ideally I suppose you would have a belt system with just the Blower, Balancer, and Tensioner but the water pump really has no other way to spin due to its location.
Take a look again at the diagram and you will see what I mean http://www.cartek.net/v/HPE/FlipDriv...uctDetails.jpg
Technically 3 tensioners in the whole system with flip drive.....#1 right under the blower, #2 under the alternator, #3 Stock AC tensioner (This one doesn't need much tension)
Having a more dedicated blower belt that only goes around the Balancer, Blower, tensioner/idler, and part of the water pump makes a big difference. Tighter wrap around the crank especially is huge. Ideally I suppose you would have a belt system with just the Blower, Balancer, and Tensioner but the water pump really has no other way to spin due to its location.
Take a look again at the diagram and you will see what I mean http://www.cartek.net/v/HPE/FlipDriv...uctDetails.jpg
Technically 3 tensioners in the whole system with flip drive.....#1 right under the blower, #2 under the alternator, #3 Stock AC tensioner (This one doesn't need much tension)
#2 and #3 !?
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you will need a cartek blower bracket in order to use the tensioner labeled #1, it is not part of the flip drive
Melting Slicks
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I'm using a&a's secondary drive and it works great, it's similar in design to the flip drive but it uses an auto tensioner instead of a manual tensioner so you won't have to adjust it once installed... cartek's blower bracket is really nice and I was going to get one when I switched but they would not answer the phone and I wasn't going down that road again lol... I believe 8 rib is the biggest you can get with their bracket though, as far as I know there is no 10 rib option... I'm glad they didn't respond because I am very happy with everything I got from a&a
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From: Forney TX
You can try something as simple as cutting a circle out of a piece of wood and clamping it in with a T-bolt clamp into the silicone coupler that holds the inlet pipe to the supercharger. Remove the air line from the brake booster, leaving the check valve on the booster and use an air compressor with a blower nozzle to blow air into the hose. Watch your boost gauge if you have one or get another gauge to watch the pressure. Unless your lifters don't bleed down, easily enough, you shouldn't blow any air out the exhaust.
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You can try something as simple as cutting a circle out of a piece of wood and clamping it in with a T-bolt clamp into the silicone coupler that holds the inlet pipe to the supercharger. Remove the air line from the brake booster, leaving the check valve on the booster and use an air compressor with a blower nozzle to blow air into the hose. Watch your boost gauge if you have one or get another gauge to watch the pressure. Unless your lifters don't bleed down, easily enough, you shouldn't blow any air out the exhaust.
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From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
You can try something as simple as cutting a circle out of a piece of wood and clamping it in with a T-bolt clamp into the silicone coupler that holds the inlet pipe to the supercharger. Remove the air line from the brake booster, leaving the check valve on the booster and use an air compressor with a blower nozzle to blow air into the hose. Watch your boost gauge if you have one or get another gauge to watch the pressure. Unless your lifters don't bleed down, easily enough, you shouldn't blow any air out the exhaust.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 123
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That lean spike in your run is enough to hurt your motor. You're going from too rich to too lean. That needs to be solved for sure. I also recommend capping the blower inlet off, removing the brake booster line and pressurizing everything to 10psi to make sure you don't have any boost leaks. This is something that I do on every car before I tune and I've seen leaks from all kinds of places from cracked intercooler tank welds to stuck BOV's, cracked intake manifolds, torn or holes in silicone couplers etc. I find leaks often enough to justify testing each and every car.
I have a C5 customer that just below maxing out his D1, making 797whp with the graph still climbing because they lifted off the pedal early.
suggestions:
Fix the fuel supply issue
solve the fuel supply issue
get good filter and blower inlet pipe
retune the car
I have a C5 customer that just below maxing out his D1, making 797whp with the graph still climbing because they lifted off the pedal early.
suggestions:
Fix the fuel supply issue
solve the fuel supply issue
get good filter and blower inlet pipe
retune the car
You said that i should remove my filter then block the inlet of blower , then remove the hose that connected with brake booster and blow it with the air ? This way can make me find leak in Intercooler ? Clamped ? ...etc
Last edited by Bojwayes; Jun 7, 2016 at 11:21 AM.
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St. Jude Donor '15
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Now i will change the injectors seals its (siemens 60lb) i think the stock injector seals will fit ? , and now what can i do with my head unit leak ?
This isvvideo of leak you can check .
http://e.top4top.net/m_159sn4t0.mov
Last edited by Bojwayes; Jun 8, 2016 at 10:38 AM.
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From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
I'm no expert but the bubbles around the head unit don't seem like a big deal to me. That's nothing compared to how much air you're moving while in boost..
Last edited by schpenxel; Jun 8, 2016 at 09:23 AM.
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From: Gilbert AZ
Should not be leaking there though. Seen that on the last F1R I did. Needs to be taken apart and a new seal put in there. Should be a big oring that seals that.
Finding and fixing stuff like that is why some cars make 700rwhp and others 800. It is the little stuff that adds up. Contact procharger and tell them your D1SC is leaking like that and they should warranty it/fix it.
Finding and fixing stuff like that is why some cars make 700rwhp and others 800. It is the little stuff that adds up. Contact procharger and tell them your D1SC is leaking like that and they should warranty it/fix it.
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