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Looks good to me on a stock thermostat. No worries. I start to ask questions when water gets above 220 in normal conditions and get worried above 245 ever. Oil temps I get worried above 290 and throw yellow flags above 260.
It always makes me nervous seeing the oil temp creep up to the 230F+ range. Water temp rarely goes above 215F with the AC blowing cold. Even when beating on it. I guess these temps are fine.
I have the OEM oil cooler and lines, but have been unable to figure out how to make it fit with the turbos.
My GS EOC ran ~160-185*F with the stock air/oil cooler. Now with the DeWitts EOC (and the air/oil cooler removed), it runs a more consistent ~165*F, and warms up MUCH faster than with the stock GS cooler...very happy with that. Warm up time previously was way long.
I rented a '12 base, and beat on it hard and EOC was never much over ~250*F in mid 70's ambient temps, FWIW.
IMV, oil doesn't need to reach 212*F to "boil condensation/moisture". The aeration, agitation (and localized areas that reach much higher temps) will vaporize all/any moisture/H2O. The Red Line tech - local to me - also has the same view. His opinion was that a min oil temp of 160*F is desired, without the *need* to reach boiling point of water (212*F) for adequate moisture vaporization and removal.
My new DeWitts ECT's run 170-195*F w/ a 160F stat, with air movement at 40 MPH <. Closer to 170*F at 70+ hi-way only.
My opinion, worth what you paid for it...
Originally Posted by Mike's LS3
Same here: Freeway 196*F, A&A, Dewitts and oem T-stat (187*).
Oil temp around 225*F with oil cooler in the Dewitts rad (TOC and EOC).
ECS 1500 kit with built motor and mine gets hot quick. 220-235*F coolant at slow cruise 40MPH in 4th gear with A/C on and 235* oil temp. I don't feel comfortable running the car that hot given the driving parameters. Does the DeWitts EOC make that much of a difference or should i be focusing my attention elsewhere? I don't think a 160 stat will help me because I am already past the point of where the stat is fully open(i think).
yes and all OEM coolers are in place. I read some threads about adding side shields to force air through the radiator. Some people are cutting up the front bumper also which is something I don't think I want to do at this point. Given all the heat, the A/C performance at a stop light is terrible also.
I have a theory that the holes cut in the top shield for charge piping and intake tube are also allowing lots of air to bypass the radiator.
My car has an aftermarket carbon hood also but the cowl area is not cut out. I wonder if adding some holes will help as well.
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