I got started installing the FI kit today. Didn't expect to get much done, but surprisingly, the install is going pretty quickly. I don't know if I will have time tomorrow, but I'm projecting another half day (plus) I'll be done. I am not in a rush and have no timeline (nice part about being retired).

HB is pinned, most of the prep work is done for the intercooler, just need to get the radiator asy spaced out and the horns reloed, then I can finish up the lower end work. Top end I've started in a lot of places. Just need to prep the water pump, change injectors and plugs, and blower install, then a lot of hose, pipe routing and install. Then I'll start the tune journey. I already have my start tune built and ready to install.

All in all, a nice kit. No glitches or rework. Good design, makes it easy. Hats off to A&A! Here is where I left it end of today:

 

It's all downhill after getting the crank pinned!

 

I feel like a veteran with HBs. I've done a few of them and I have the routine down pretty well. In fact, did mine about a year ago and replaced with a powerbond, just didn't pin it then.

Not only that, but I set my four post lift up as an alignment rack too, so I am completely self contained. I won't check alignment until sometime down the road after much tuning. I have the HBs down to a science where I can change them w/o removing the rack.

 

Interesting use of the floor jacks. They are sturdy with half of them not on the lift?

 

Yes, as solid as if on the floor. The pic might be a bit of a distortion, but the actual contact point on the frame transfers weight vertically pretty close to the center of the ramps. this distributes the weight out across the bottom of the floor jack and the contact patch for the jack rails covers about 2/3rds of the rail lengths. the front rollers of both jacks are on the ramps. Because of the counteracting scissor positions, this creates a larger triangular support structure across the complete width of both ramps. It wasn't setup in the pic, but I also have a bridge pan I can position under the front carrier and I could place a middle safety jack stand if/when doing heavy mechanical work under the car. But for this project, I am mostly working in front and not underneath the car.

I've done some pretty heavy work with this setup. I built a complete Factory Five Roadster from the chassis up using this setup. I've even rigged it to completely remove the body of the FF myself just using the lift, which is normally a 3 person job on the ground. Believe me, at my age, I'm not into dangerous.

 

I will be starting my A&A install in the next few eeks and also will be installing the Powerbond at the same time. Any tips or care to share your method of changing out the balancer?

 

So, let me answer this with the areas of focus that either make this job easy or miserable, then I'll expand with detail, some will be helpful, some not. So the job is easy or hard based on:

1. A lift
2. Type of wheel puller you have (assuming you're removing a factory HB)
3. The type of breaker bar you have
4. The way you lock the flywheel to get/attain the correct torque on install as well as break loose the old bolt.

So, first, locking the flywheel. Most everyone pulls the starter then uses a lockdown tool that can be purchased on Ebay and other places. I don't pull the starter, instead go to the opposite side, next to the oil filter, there is a plastic inspection plate that, removed, exposes the flywheel. Here I made a jerry riggged tool that I use to lock the FW there and saves removing the starter. My toolmaking background helped me tool this up, but I wouldn't show it to anyone, the experts here would eat me alive. LOL. BTW, I've only done manuals, so I do not know if the inspection plate is there on an auto.

Next, in disassembly, most remove the steering rack out through the passenger side opening when they loosen the front carriage assembly and shim it open. I go the opposite way. With the rack all disconnected and the ABS unit unbolted I slide the rack part way out the driver's side, then raise it and use a wire hanger to hold it up above the area I need to reach the HB.

Next, if this is a factory HB, you have to use a three legged wheel puller. I have one that is probably older than I am, it is stout and wide, so it needs little clearance to clamp onto the factory HB. Can't help with where/what to get today, maybe Harbor Freight. Or rent one.

Finally, the breaker bar. I have air tools but nothing strong enough to break the old bolt loose. Instead, I have a huge 3/4 inch breaker bar and I use an iron pipe to make it about 30" long. The bolt is no challenge to this setup; however, without a lift, you won't get the ground clearance to swing the wrench. Lastly, you need a torque wrench that can handle over 200 lbs of torque, but you can rent those.

Worst case, you'll do this the traditional/long way:

Flywheel lockdown tool
Wheel puller
Maybe a high powered Pneumatic gun
Torque wrench.

BTW - if you do a search either here or google, you'll find detailed steps, even a youtube if I remember correctly.

Good luck on it....Come back here, there is plenty of help.