Twayneo1

so i just finished my A&A install, and i took it out for a test drive down my gravel driveway. about 15 miles later my radiator fan through a rock into my radiator and it bled out. I am planning on getting a dewitts short radiator to give my self and all the hoses more room. Im wondering about the seal fans, some people say save your money.. I'm concerned if i put the gm fan back up it will throw a rock again. is there any fans out there you recommend that are inexpensive and will work with the short radiator that are sealed pretty tight to prevent rocks from being thrown up by the scraper?

I also have fresh oil down my oil pan, i fear the seal was broken, but ill save that for another day.

Arctic Vette

Dewitts twin spal is pretty damn tight sealed against the rad fins. I would do their fan with the dewitt relay wiring kit. Call them first to ensure it fits the cut down but i am 99% sure it does fit. The D3 has a huge gap in mine between fan shroud and the rad fins which doesnt sit flush at all, it doesnt even bolt up to the oem mounts because the blower hits the D3 upper right fan. D3 needs massive chopping to make fit with blower, doesnt even bolt up to the Dewitts rad, makes working on the car from underneath impossible because fan motor gets in the way, and lastly its about 1 inch above the rad on top.. D3 needs to rotate the way they position the fans from lower left/upper right to upper left/lower right because the upper right fan jams into the supercharger outlet pipe and its a huge PITA with massive cutting to get it to fit.

Id rank 1. Dewitts with relay kit and 2. Flexalite fan w relay (read my flexalite DIY) is a cheaper option but I highly recommended you run their relay kit. I fried my wiring with the Dewitts and didnt know it for a while, so use the relay kit please. I would rank D3 number 1 however after all the cutting and chopping horrible fitment etc. I rank theirs 3rd option due to bad fitment. I do believe the D3 has the strongest fans for cooling though, after having all 3 fans my car runs coolest with D3 and their pwm wiring is excellent which removes the oem fan module junk. Mostly FI cars would be utilizing the D3 fan, it would be smart to ensure it fits with superchargers and the dewitts rad etc. At $900+ it is not a good feeling to chop it all up to look horrible. I have expressed this to D3 but it is probably not going to happen. This is all simply my opinion after running all 3 fans first hand, do what you feel is best and good luck.

realcanuk

Personally I would stick with a full size rad, but if going with cut down I would probably try out the brushless spal setup that Dewitt's was showing at SEMA. It looks super nice.

BlindSpot

I am still evaluating the short FI Dewitts myself, although my install has really settled in and I am confident in the alternative connection I've come up with on the SC intake using the factory rad. And, I only cut the topmost alum radiator structure as A&A suggests (not into the first rows of rad fins). In fact, I like the connection I've come up with better than the recommendation BC it's cleaner, less clamp connections. Coolant temps seem to be in a good range, highest being 205* on some DL pulls.

Glad to hear you're running. I'm into a couple hundred miles now and all mechanicals are performing up to my expectations. I'm now DLing and fine tuning.

Unreal

Full size dewitt and stock fan with shroud. cutdown only if you are trying for 1100+ daily car. no reason to run cutdown. if you need more than the 1000-1100 the stock dongle supports for a race just pop it off and do a velocity stack. if you do cutdown with that pwm fan it can work if you do a ton of other cooling modes but why spend $2k or more in cooling just to almost be as good as full size with stock fan.

ran all possible setups. copy realcanuks setup.

Twayneo1

totally agree, i was less concerned about cooling, more concerned with clearance, i have a gravel driveway that my front bumper scrapers throw rocks in to my engine compartment, i was considering doing the blower fan and raising the radiator mounts back up but I'm just going to order the 112 dollar cheap radiator from radiator express and if it gets damaged i won't feel so bad, I'm going to keep the stock and and put mesh around the openings to prevent rocks from getting in.

EuroRod

FYI....
I have a DeWitts shorty w/ EOC and it would not cool my ProCharged 402.

I ended up using a full size DeWitts w/o the EOC. I have a D1 ProCharger and I'm using the A&A air bridge.

So far, it's doing the job.

If you are interested in the shorty, it only has 200 miles on it and I'll sell it cheap.

Unreal

piping and other stuff doesnt fit then. you made the right choice.

chpmnsws6

https://m.summitracing.com/search/pr...s-wire-screens

I keep multiple rolls of this on hand. It goes in nearly every customers car. Zero negatives to it. If only I could put it on the windshield so I didn't have to replace the trucks windshield annually.

0D3PE

I would recommend to cut the radiator stays and lower them so you can run a full size radiator (OEM base C6 or ZR1 work well, C&R is the best), overall surface area dictates the radiators cooling effort, then I would pair it with our dual spal fan kit. If you are interested in any of that, we are running black friday specials on everything we sale.

realcanuk

That's the trick! I lowered rad brackets. That way you lower the rad without losing any ground clearance.

0D3PE

We pretty much only deal with FI cars thus where our fan development came from, and we would see it all the time, FI cars with big power but cut down dewitts rads with overheating issues. The more power you make, the more BTUs that need to be removed from the cooling system, also most cases, everyones running front mount intercoolers which blocks the already tapped airflow to the radiator (small C6 grill opening), we went back to full size rads and our fan kit, we never have overheating issues now no matter what the ambient and power output.

neverstop

this basically is what I have and cools my 900whp LSX iron block 427 with D1 without issue. I haven't tested it out in >100* heat yet but in the high 80s and low 90s outside my water temp never got >220* in traffic.