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Nitrous setup questions

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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 11:27 PM
  #1  
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Default Nitrous setup questions

I have a 2010 GS Mn6 with Full exhaust, Cam, intake and tune. I have purchased a nitrous kit and accessories, but have a few questions about the setup. The car will be tuned after the install.

I have purchased the following

Nano 3000
NX 90mm plate kit
nx nitrous controller
KB Bap (no adjustment ****)
Purge
fuel PSI switch
nitrous filter
switch panel
nitrous gauge
solenoid bracket


I'm looking to spray 50-75hp this year and 100-125 once I get a clutch. I will more than likely install a lingenfelter Lnc-2000 once I up the shot. Until then, I will have my tuner pull 2-3 degrees for the small shot.

I am going to purchase the racetronix fuel pump harness part# FPWH-008 for the BAP. This biggest question I have, is how do I get the BAP to only active on nitrous?

I have read countless threads, but everyone seems to do it different. What else along with harness do I need to make this work when the nitrous is activated?

Lastly, are there any other items I need to make this system work and or easier to install (ie more relays, wires ect.)

Thanks to B. Shafer (nitrous express) for the good deal and smooth transaction.


Mike

Last edited by MikeSVT04; Feb 16, 2017 at 11:30 PM.
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 05:43 AM
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Should be able to use a hob switch to turn on the bap when you spray.


Just throwing it out there spending all this money and getting tuned for a 50/75 shot is a waste of time. Just go 150 shot off the bat the engine/clutch will be fine esp if your tune is on point.

I would also buy a bottle warmer.
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 09:55 AM
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Sell the BAP and other fuel upgrades and get a standalone if you can. With a standalone you also have the luxury of using higher octane for safety. I used VP 109 and 116

Also, you probably will not even feel a 50 shot. Spray 100-150.

I had a very similar setup to you and had a great time with it, good luck.
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by GS_DAN
Sell the BAP and other fuel upgrades and get a standalone if you can. With a standalone you also have the luxury of using higher octane for safety. I used VP 109 and 116

Also, you probably will not even feel a 50 shot. Spray 100-150.

I had a very similar setup to you and had a great time with it, good luck.
Unfortunately, the standalone is out of my budget right now. Maybe down the road.

I have no doubt the 50 shot will be marginal at best, but I don't think the ls7 clutch will take much more. I run drag radials and often go from a dig. I may go 75 if the clutch holds.

I will stick with the bap for the time being. Just need to figure out how to get it to turn on with the nitrous.

Last edited by MikeSVT04; Feb 17, 2017 at 10:35 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason.
Should be able to use a hob switch to turn on the bap when you spray.


Just throwing it out there spending all this money and getting tuned for a 50/75 shot is a waste of time. Just go 150 shot off the bat the engine/clutch will be fine esp if your tune is on point.


I would also buy a bottle warmer.

I thought the Hobbs switch was for boost? I have a nano kit, so no need for the warmer. I would like to spray 100-150, but the ls7 clutch would be way past its limits. I'm in no hurry to make power.

I have never owned a nitrous car, so learning how it works and starting out small seems logical to me. Although, everyone says that will be short lived.
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 02:43 PM
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Should be able to connect the relay from the solenoids and the BAP to the same trigger switch so when you arm the nitrous it kicks on the BAP as well.


Stock pump should be good for a 100 shot without the bap.
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 06:29 PM
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The 12v wire that energizes the nitrous solenoid goes to the thinner red wire on the Racetronix relay so they both go on at the same time. Usually a hot lead (+12) is run to 1 side of the relay or solenoid and the ground is switched ON/OFF
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by NJ_phil
The 12v wire that energizes the nitrous solenoid goes to the thinner red wire on the Racetronix relay so they both go on at the same time. Usually a hot lead (+12) is run to 1 side of the relay or solenoid and the ground is switched ON/OFF
Ok, great thanks.

i figured it was easy.
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