just here for advise and people with actual data to back up opinion.
i live in south Louisiana where it can get 100+ outside and summers are always in 90s.
its already 85 outside and it is tough to keep car cool in stop and go traffic when happens and also when making few pulls on interstate. (220-230F constantly have turn ac off to get come back down)

whats opinions on cooling options
dewitts stock fan
dwittss dual fan
d3pe dual with stock
ragin racing dual fan

need data once info is so random searching.
my car is 08 c6z AHP heads, lg cam, a&A sc kit with 3.6 pulley.
adding ARH headers and meth soon and want get this ironed out before going to tuner.

 

For me the dewitts full size with no coolers, dual spals, (I have racin ragins) works great. But keep in mind it has also to so with setup... airflow to the rad, among other things.

 

Ran stock, ran dewitts dual, run spal 17" now.

Basic duals are a step down from stock. The PWM 17" is a step up from stock. CPR has custom dual PWM setups that cool great in 120+ weather but price is high. Even the 17" setup is high.

Make sure radiator is clean, condensor is clean. Thats step 1. Make sure you have proper airflow to the radiator. Nothing block it. Make sure coolant is fresh and mixed properly. I run 80/20 with 2 bottles of water wetter. Make sure condenser isn't damaged or radiator isn't damaged.

Full size dewitts, with shrouding, and D3 or comparable PWM fan kit should do it.

Tune/etc can also wreak havoc on cooling.

Basically copy Realcanuks setup as close as you can. My setup works great too and AC is ice cold in 120+ weather with no heat issues, but I have $2k+ easy just into cooling parts.

 

Nola la here and I run the d3 fans, stock rad, 160 stat, and fans on high early, and no weather stripping. In dead summer in stop and go traffic more than 5 min, The car will get to 230with ac on and as soon as I click it off it's 220ish. With any movement at all temps drop fast.

 

Dealing with this issue also. I have the A&A kit with the Dewitt's radiator with oil cooler. Highway speeds are fine. But stop and go traffic becomes an issue. I'm convinced the integrated oil cooler is doing more harm then good. Too much load on the radiator and stock fan setup to cool both coolant and oil once it gets hot. I'll be doing the oil cooler block off plate as many others have done on the forums to bring up oil temps, but I'm trying this to take a load off the radiator. Oil temp should stay in check for street use according to others who have done this mod

 

I used to live there down. Ran stock radiator and fans with 160 stat. Had Futral seal the fan setup and it ran cooler and had no real issues except for when the fan connector was bad. Other than that saved a lot of money with some simple weather stripping.

 

by removing the weather stripping?

 

No by using some to seal it

 

ive seen both your cars detoxx and slopac at futural last week when there. he showed me what both of you guys have done and gave me his opinion on it.
what detox is saying is they use weatherstripping type seal from autozone and place around shroud of stock fan. if you look at your fan there is a huge gap between fan and radiator thus fan pulls air from engine bay along with though radiator.

also he said both detoxx and slopac still have issues with the heat, when getting on the gas frequently.

 

Although where I am doesn't get as hot as down there, we do get some very warm and humid days in the summer. I have no heat problems even when pushing hard or sitting in traffic. I don't think its any one thing, but a combination of things that allow for that. Here is a list of things I believe contribute to keeping my temps down.

full size dewitts, with no cooler.
Dual spal fans.
External engine oil and transmission coolers.
Rear steam vents connected. (no idea if helps)
160 thermostat and fans coming on earlier than stock.
Custom work on install including spacing intercooler as far as possible from rad, and reusing the stock fan shroud after modifying it. (I believe a huge help as it directs the air through the rad as it should, like stock.)
Removed weather strip from where hood closes, and opened up the little side vents in the fenders to possibly allow more air flow.
Vent in hood, which doesn't seem to do much in traffic, but definitely works when the car is moving.
Coolant mix is about 1/4 anti freeze and rest water.

I did everything at the same time so I cant be sure what really helps and what doesn't. I believe the biggest factors are space between the IC and rad, and the use of the shroud. Also using a full size rad with no coolers has to help over a cut down or having hot oils run through the rad.

 

I don't have issues with heat. My only issues now is I have a radiator leak. Prior to that no problems with overheating.

 

vented hood to allow heat to escape should drop temps 10-20F

 

Doesn't do a thing when sitting in traffic.

 

I saw near zero difference with a vented hood. May drop temps quicker when moving, but hood off, vented, sealed, sitting at idle it doesn't matter.

 

Is anyone running A&A's newest radiator setup? I just got my kit and it's a custom Griffin (spelling?) radiator with a notch at the top to give more room for the intake dongle and other top mount parts. Definitely thicker than my Dewitt's. I'll take pictures if anyone is interested but i haven't seen much in terms of people using it yet. Also, since it's got the notch up top, the D3 fan setup probably won't fit, which I really want.

 

hmm most of my problems come at idle and the under the hood heat just cooking around the headers, at least on my old setup, I can't imagine a hood would not help vent some of that heat.

 

I think everyone's problems are at idle. I only have an eforce and still have the same issues.

On the z06 I took the oem oil cooler out and installed the newer style oil to water cooler, that took a hot plate out of the row of coolers up front.

Meziere electric water pump makes a nice difference and reduces belt stress, may add a couple hp/improve throttle response too. I have used them for 10 years now and they work well.

Like Unreal says...clean condenser and rad. very good chance the condenser is dirty. I just got a new one after cleaning was tedious.

sealed fan shroud so the air must be drawn through the radiator makes a nice difference.

More powerful fan like the 17" pwm Unreal mentioned is best and worthwhile. Looks like GM performance parts is offering one for the C7 Z06 that is priced right but you need to make it fit.
I have the D3 duals and you can feel the draw all the way up front at he heat exchanger although greatly diminished by then.
The single 17" mentioned (17" pwm) may draw less power and that is a big deal. I cant get enough power at idle to run the D3's to full speed with all the other crap...working on that but if i cant spin the fans I cant cool well.

May need to go with overdrive crank pulley which will spin accessories, alternator and even oem waterpump faster...but then upsets the balance of the supercharger pulley and who knows what else...such fun!

There are some very cool water pumps with computer controls that vary pump speed according to temperature and maybe even less load (too long in coming)
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/davie...ic-water-pump/ this tech is here and ill bet it is worthwhile. The controller might even control fans which may also be an upgrade.

A debate about whether a thin design oem or slightly thicker radiator then stock is better at idle along with just trying the improved fans first instead of going with the thick radiator. I would try it that way had to do over again but I bough the dewitts first thing. One thing for sure is that doesnt do the trick so dont buy the radiator alone it wont cut it.
In fact, it has been said that you NEED HP fans to draw through the thicker radiator and the return is diminished due to reduced airflow. I did see some benifits from the Dewitts though.

The Dewitts didnt change peak temps but maybe 5 degrees but ill take it. Delayed the rise to peak temps in traffic by nearly 40 minutes...enough time for most of us to get out of traffic...not me though. That is likely due to increased coolant capacity.

It may certainly help to eliminate the added heat from radiator by using remote coolers like realkanuk mentioned and letting the radiator do its job cooling only the engine. Has to help I'd think.

Some very good stuff on the forum about how these guys increased airflow by moving the heat exchanger, cutting the bumper (or something like that) spreading apart the heat exchangers and more.

I'd like to see how just the better fans (sealed shroud) and electric water pump do with a 160 thermostat, clean condenser/radiator.


Good luck man.

 

I've run the gauntlet with DeWitts. A great product, but you have to match the components with the engine to achieve the coolant temps you want.
My first setup was a stock LS2, headers and a P1 ProCharger. I used a full height DeWtts with EOL. I also use a Meziere electric water pump. This setup worked fairly well. My current setup is a 6.8 liter, D1, hedders, cam, etc and I started with a DeWitts shorty with EOC. Big mistake. I now run a DeWwtts full height, and an external EOC located over the brake cooler inlet. Works great.