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I am putting in a built LS3 into my project vehicle. I just ordered a TVS 2300 kit from Magnuson and am looking for lessons learned. I see most people upgrade to the rear cog set up, which I'll have to order but are there other items I need to be aware of or consider?
Build Summary Highlights:
Magnuson TVS 2300
New LS3 block
Corvette front accesories
Wiseco Pistons - roughly 9.4 to 1
LSA forged crank
Manley Rods
ARP studs throughout
Fully Ported LS3 Heads
Upgraded valve train
LS9 cam (yes I know I am leaving a little power on the table)
Rossler built 4L70
3600 Yank stall
Twin 255 Walbro pumps
E85
Custom IC system
Goals:
1) 650-700 AWHP, not trying to max my set up
2) Ability to drive it anywhere
Agree with Tech. If I were 100% sure of the ability to source quality E85, I'd do 11:1 or higher on the static CR. Minimum 10.5 on a pump 93 LS3. With a 3.6" front pulley and O/D rears, you'll hit your power numbers with ease. Meth would sure help on a build like this. Extra octane is a big safety net.
Fit a bigger heat exchanger (or two smaller ones) if you have room. A higher volume coolant pump along with a bigger coolant reservoir would be a big plus too.
And ditch the LS9 cam thing too. There are a boat load of cams available that will help give you the power you want and keep stock like manners. Better yet, get in touch with Pat G and get him to spec you a custom cam to fit your EXACT needs. The best 40 bucks you'll spend on this project.
The drivetrain is going into my Typhoon. There are a few people that get upset about me modifying a Typhoon so I just call it "my project". Also doing full chromoly suspension with (4) corner AFCO coil overs, big brakes, etc. Should be fun when it is complete.
I have been going back and forth of fuel. The long block is almost done.
I am concerned that the Magnuson kit is only a (6) rib kit. I bought an (8) ATI damper and am potentially looking to upgrade to (8) rib front drive. I am very impressed with TVS performance and hope I can address potential other issues I may be overlooking.
Thank you again for your feedback!
Last edited by Fatal Ty; Jul 25, 2017 at 03:46 PM.
Agree with Tech. If I were 100% sure of the ability to source quality E85, I'd do 11:1 or higher on the static CR. Minimum 10.5 on a pump 93 LS3. With a 3.6" front pulley and O/D rears, you'll hit your power numbers with ease. Meth would sure help on a build like this. Extra octane is a big safety net.
Fit a bigger heat exchanger (or two smaller ones) if you have room. A higher volume coolant pump along with a bigger coolant reservoir would be a big plus too.
And ditch the LS9 cam thing too. There are a boat load of cams available that will help give you the power you want and keep stock like manners. Better yet, get in touch with Pat G and get him to spec you a custom cam to fit your EXACT needs. The best 40 bucks you'll spend on this project.
Regarding the IC, I am planning to use my upgraded Typhoon lower rad with an ice box in the back. Thank you for the feed back!
I had Brian Tooley and Texas Speed spec custom cams for me. After a long discussion with a GM COPO team member I chose to stay with a factory cam. I know I am leaving some power on the table but I should have very good drive ability and not destroy the valve train.
Regarding the IC, I am planning to use my upgraded Typhoon lower rad with an ice box in the back. Thank you for the feed back!
I had Brian Tooley and Texas Speed spec custom cams for me. After a long discussion with a GM COPO team member I chose to stay with a factory cam. I know I am leaving some power on the table but I should have very good drive ability and not destroy the valve train.
Lemme guess here. TxSpeed suggested something in the mid to high 220's intake and high 230's exhaust with .629 lift on the intake and .615 lift on the exhaust. Maybe a 114 lsa or so. Tooley suggested something similar intake and exhaust with a 121 lsa and 4 or 5 degrees advance. An I close?
You could do something like a 222/236 116 lsa (with appropriate advance based on your static CR). Lift in the .590 range. It would outpower an LS9 cam in all realms while keeping perfect manners and good reliability. Just sayin..
Last edited by old motorhead; Jul 25, 2017 at 04:02 PM.
I could talk to you for hours about lessons learned on my build. It all depends on what you're wanting to make and how hard you're wanting to spin the blower. Motorhead is right the more power you build into the motor itself the less you have to stress the blower to make up for it. Id run a minimum of 10.5:1 SCR and meth or E85. And I run a off the shelf level 2 comp cam for a PD blower and mine drives fine and I'm at .661 lift. Have Pat G spec you a cam you won't regret it. As far as belt drives go you're going to want to at a minimum do a cog rear drive. And at the least a 8 rib conversion. With it being a automatic you should be fine with a spring loaded tensioner. As far as porting I'd recommend porting the inlet to 102mm and getting a 4inch mass air and intake tube. As well as the NW102 throttle body.
I could talk to you for hours about lessons learned on my build. It all depends on what you're wanting to make and how hard you're wanting to spin the blower. Motorhead is right the more power you build into the motor itself the less you have to stress the blower to make up for it. Id run a minimum of 10.5:1 SCR and meth or E85. And I run a off the shelf level 2 comp cam for a PD blower and mine drives fine and I'm at .661 lift. Have Pat G spec you a cam you won't regret it. As far as belt drives go you're going to want to at a minimum do a cog rear drive. And at the least a 8 rib conversion. With it being a automatic you should be fine with a spring loaded tensioner. As far as porting I'd recommend porting the inlet to 102mm and getting a 4inch mass air and intake tube. As well as the NW102 throttle body.
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Magnuson TVS2300 - Lessons Learned Please
