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Stock 2011 GS Salvage posted here ..... I have a E-Force 1590 kit & a 3.50" pulley on order and would like some opinions on a few things before I get the kit and do the install. My plans at this time are to put a PowerBond PB1117N since I have to pin the crank even though it's 2,400 miles on the oem. Since I am there I have thought about changing the cam to the LS9 since it's a low cost upgrade that can be done using stock springs. I also plan to do the in tank swap to a z06 pump. No plan's to do a full exhaust at this time so that's about it. From what I came up on search's the PowerBond PB1117N is better than the oem, correct me if I am wrong here. On to the LS9 cam I know it's not much of a gain compared to other cams and the 52lb injectors would probably be the limiting factor of the cam swap (opinions) .

XX

I decided after doing some research on the PowerBond PB1117SS and placed a order for one. I also decided that I would like to use the ATI pinning kit over using the pinning kit included in the E-Force kit. If a member has the ATI kit and would not mind loaning it out to me (shipping cost covered) please contact me.

Six-Gun-Todd

A pin kit is really a pin kit....ECS, Procharger, Magnuson, Edelbrock, A&A....they all do exactly the same thing.

Also of note...one of the Powerbond balancers (I believe the eight rib one) does not position the belt in the right position. Spend a bit more and get a good balancer....currently a couple ATI and IW for sale in the parts thread.

XX

I have not seen any info in regards to the Powerbond balancers not having the the belt in the right position. The reason I decided to pin with the ATI kit you are pinning off the side of the crank that allows the pin to slide in the keyway of the HB . This way you can remove or replace with a new HB without having to pin in another area of the crank.

Six-Gun-Todd

I think it was Andy at A&A that told me the powerbond positions the 8 rib to far forward to line up with all the eight rib conversion kits. Still would much rather run the ATI or IW balancer.....you're already in there might as well run something you'll likely never have to mess with again.

Unreal

Yep, the powerbond 8 rib can only be used as a 6 rib as the extra ribs are in the wrong spot.

XX

Thanks for the info guys, I did not see that when I was researching on the PB1117SS. From the info on dayco website this is a 4/6 rib pulley but after going back to check I noticed it is a bit smaller in diameter. The 6 rib pulley groove O.D. on the PB1117SS is 7.33" and the Premium OEM PB1117N is 7.36".

Unreal

Should try to run an OD pulley if possible, Will really help the eforce and fight belt slip issues.

XX

I agree but since cost is a factor along with my end goal I couldn't justify the total cost. The ATI or IW HB would be a 60+% increase in cost without adding a ATI pinning kit @ $124, granted the added cost of the ATI pin kit is by personal preference. Knowing I need to pin the crank with the installation I decided it as a must to change out the OEM with a better aftermarket HB and not having to deal with it later on. What I came up with was either the PowerBond PB1117SS or the Summit SUM-C2501 with both around the same cost. E-Force kit to arrive Wednesday and I am still undecided on the LS9 cam swap, I need to find a bit more info.

Unreal

A quality OD balancer is a WAY better upgrade than a ls9 cam. So if you are debating the cam, forget it and do the IW 10% od pulley.

XX

Believe me I agree a 100%, lowest I found shipped so far is $508.75 IW Part# 843. With the cost of the pin kit around $632...just a hard pill to swallow. May go this route, forget about the cam swap and return the PowerBond.

Six-Gun-Todd

This ^^^^

LS9 cam is only mildly better than a stock LS3.....

XX

Will leave the stock one in. Now I am thinking if I should go ahead and replace the stock timing chain Dampener with a dog bone

Unreal

Only if you are going in there, otherwise leave it alone.

XX

Not going in, thanks guys

Six-Gun-Todd

The forum can be an invaluable tool for knowledge...but it can also invent problems that are minor or even nonexistent. To be honest stock balancers aren't that bad.....I have one with 75k miles on it driving a TVS 1900 LS2 Trailblazer SS that has been beaten to within an inch of its life and it's still true and happy. As well many LS3's never get touched and push into the 600+ whp range and run there for years. Put that baby together....get a good tune....and enjoy

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This is my come to spot for knowledge......Parts are ordered, kinda second guess myself on a lot of things. This morning I caught myself procrastinating on a major tool I have been wanting (two post lift). I told my buddy I should have got the lift first. I have been jacking up and crawling under corvette's since the 70's and it's time to change that.

Unreal

IMO, unless you can get a nice full size 2 post, get a quick jack. They rock. Quick, easy, and lets you do so much. I have both and quick jack is what I use for almost everything. Not worth using the 2 post for most stuff.

Six-Gun-Todd

Good 2 post is a must (space permtting)

I'm pretty fortunate to have a dedicated hot rod shop with two 2 post lifts and two 4 post....once you ditch the creeper there's no going back

XX

Having hands on built my home back in 94 I was generous to myself with ample space in the garage area but back then I did not consider a install of a lift. I built a 38'L x 28'w 1 1/2 story a-frame attached garage and will have to modify it for the height of the lift. My plan is to increase the height for the lift on the drive-thru side by taking out the 2nd floor in that area. Installing the lift in the center of the 38' span will allow me enough room to park a car on either side of the lift when not in use. Here is a few pics when I modified 1/2 the garage into a large paint booth.