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My build for 2018

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Old 02-19-2018, 10:46 PM
  #41  
Tech
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Checked PTV but the gap was so large I didn’t bother getting a good measurement on it. Both heads are on and I threw my old push rods in it.

I mocked up the lower part of secondary drive and everything looks kosher. I’m getting close to stabbing it back in. Perhaps I’ll get it back in the car this weekend.

Last edited by Tech; 02-20-2018 at 09:27 AM.
Old 02-20-2018, 09:48 PM
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I was in the middle of a sentence tonight, telling my wife a work story, when it dawned on me that I didn't torque my chain damper bolts. I literally stopped mid sentence, talking about something completely unrelated, when it hit me.

So I pulled the pan, front cover and oil pump and lo and behold, they were already torqued to the correct spec. Is 37 too young for dementia?

Old 02-21-2018, 09:14 AM
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jayyyw
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Originally Posted by Tech
I was in the middle of a sentence tonight, telling my wife a work story, when it dawned on me that I didn't torque my chain damper bolts. I literally stopped mid sentence, talking about something completely unrelated, when it hit me.

So I pulled the pan, front cover and oil pump and lo and behold, they were already torqued to the correct spec. Is 37 too young for dementia?

Better safe than sorry. It's happened to me before and I'm only 31.
Old 02-21-2018, 09:18 AM
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schpenxel
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I forgot the timing chain damper altogether on mine

Except I actually really did forget it, had to pull front back apart
Old 02-21-2018, 10:53 AM
  #45  
g23crawler
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Iv had mine apart 3 times in the last couple weeks and I still seem to forget something. And im only 22, maybe I need a new hobby.
Old 02-22-2018, 07:45 AM
  #46  
Mordeth
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Originally Posted by Tech
Pushrods are a hair under 7.600". I've read Johnson 2110 lifters should have 0.035" to 0.050" preload. I have a set of 7.650" pushrods from my last engine. I'm debating trying those first since it's not that big of a deal to swap them out later. Thoughts?
With my Johnson 2126 (not the short travel version) I set the pre-load to ~.042". Aluminum head will expand slightly with heat and take up some pre-load. I spoke to Johnson directly about this and they said anything between .035" - .045" is perfect for 2110 or 2126. I used Trend 3/8” .135” wall pushrods. My final measurement came out to: 7.925”

By the way, awesome build so far and I am enjoying the updates.
Old 02-22-2018, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Mordeth
With my Johnson 2126 (not the short travel version) I set the pre-load to ~.042". Aluminum head will expand slightly with heat and take up some pre-load. I spoke to Johnson directly about this and they said anything between .035" - .045" is perfect for 2110 or 2126. I used Trend 3/8” .135” wall pushrods. My final measurement came out to: 7.925”

By the way, awesome build so far and I am enjoying the updates.
Those are the same numbers CamMotion gave me too. If I were to order new, I’d probably do the same you did.
Old 02-22-2018, 10:50 PM
  #48  
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More pictures from the past couple of days. Got the front and pan put back together. I mocked up the secondary drive and slid the balancer on. I’m not quite sure how to orient the power steering line so the fitting on the rack mates up. It seems like the hose end should be clocked differently. Maybe it’ll make more sense when the motor goes into the chassis.

I decided to paint the alternator bracket black but I’m still undecided about the he throttle body and water pump.




Old 02-22-2018, 11:11 PM
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Looks great ! Only thing I would change is I clocked my alternator so that the plug isn't sticking straight up like that. Takes a minute and very easy.
Old 02-22-2018, 11:34 PM
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Looks awesome! Hope you remembered to put the front seal on!!!
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Old 02-23-2018, 12:16 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by realcanuk
Looks great ! Only thing I would change is I clocked my alternator so that the plug isn't sticking straight up like that. Takes a minute and very easy.
I’m considering that. Looks like my sticker is in a different spot than yours. That will probably have to go also. Do I just meed to remove the plastic on the back to get to the case screws, remove them and rotate?
Old 02-23-2018, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 1MEANGS
Looks awesome! Hope you remembered to put the front seal on!!!
Ha! I wondered if anyone would notice. I did install it though.
Old 02-23-2018, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Tech

I’m considering that. Looks like my sticker is in a different spot than yours. That will probably have to go also. Do I just meed to remove the plastic on the back to get to the case screws, remove them and rotate?
Exactly what you said. Very simple to do.
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Old 02-23-2018, 08:29 PM
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Alternator bracket color change. Reclocked and destickered alternator.
Old 02-23-2018, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Tech
Alternator bracket color change. Reclocked and destickered alternator.
Old 02-24-2018, 11:35 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Tech
Alternator bracket color change. Reclocked and destickered alternator.
Looks nice!
You just need some black Holley valve covers now...
Old 02-24-2018, 11:36 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Tech

Ha! I wondered if anyone would notice. I did install it though.
Hope you didn’t do what I did and install it backwards!

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Old 02-24-2018, 11:09 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by CI GS
Hope you didn’t do what I did and install it backwards!
Me too


I’m having trouble remembering if LS7 steam vents have similar gaskets as the Gen 3 engines. The crossover tube itself is o-ringed so I thought maybe not.
Old 02-25-2018, 08:22 AM
  #59  
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Just orings.

Remember the alternator grounds through that bracket, so if you painted it make sure to clean/clear the surfaces it touches and between the block and bracket.
Old 02-25-2018, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Just orings.

Remember the alternator grounds through that bracket, so if you painted it make sure to clean/clear the surfaces it touches and between the block and bracket.
Thanks

Last edited by Tech; 02-25-2018 at 12:11 PM.


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