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Alignment specs your using?

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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 03:43 PM
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Default Alignment specs your using?

I’ve fianlly found a local place willing to do a 4 wheel alignment how I want it, most said only factory specs. I’ve got the front camber spec patriotsix sent me and I PM’d requesting any more info but the question is for your 1/4,1/2 roll set up what specs do you run front and rear camber/castor/tow?

Thansk gents🇺🇸
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 08:47 PM
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I can’t remember exactly what I’m running, but I used the Pfadt chart as a general guideline:




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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 12:05 AM
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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 02:36 AM
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So patriotsix and I have similar builds and usage making around the same power but he’s been in the game much longer, he was kind enough to send me all the specs he’s currently running, I also got some good info from Anthony “Mordeth” a very accomplished road course guy(those guys tend to have the most knowledge messing with this stuff albeit for different reasons) anyway appointment is at 1pm today the shop was real cool and excited to try and dial this in.....when we’re finished I’ll post all the specs we started with and what we ended up setting.
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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 01:59 PM
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What do you want out of the alignment? Straight line traction? tire life? Handling? Stable? That will change a lot of things.

I run the fronts basically according to the pfadt street, and rear with +.5 or so camber, and minimal toe.
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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 02:18 PM
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I had the wheels aligned on my 2011 GS for longest tire wear:

. . . . . . . . . . . Front . .. . . .Rear

Camber . . . . .- 0.5° . . . . - 0.3°

Total Toe . .. . . 0.0° . . . . . .0.0°

Caster . . . . . ..7.8° . . (non-adjustable)
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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
What do you want out of the alignment? Straight line traction? tire life? Handling? Stable? That will change a lot of things.

I run the fronts basically according to the pfadt street, and rear with +.5 or so camber, and minimal toe.
I’d like to not wear the inside of the front tires as much, better hooks on the rear but keep it stable on the top end. I’m at the shop now gonna use the specs patriotsix sent me and see how it goes, I’ll damn sure take any input you wanna throw out though.
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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 02:59 PM
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It is a balance act between stability and traction. Try a setting out, and if you don't like it, can always adjust.
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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
It is a balance act between stability and traction. Try a setting out, and if you don't like it, can always adjust.
Thats the plan right now and I’ll probably lean toward stability over traction since rolls are more what I’m doing at the moment so hooking from digs is down the road when I get a new set of wheels I’ll worry about the digs
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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 07:27 PM
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Rolls or digs doesn't matter. a little toe and negative camber gives it stabiloty. As you zero them out you get better traction bit car may sway or have issues

Last edited by Unreal; Jan 24, 2019 at 07:28 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 07:32 PM
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So here’s what we started with and what we ended up setting, gonna drive on it this weekend and see how it does, if we need need to make any corrections or not. -1.2 is the best they could get the right front. Anyway hope this helps guys in the future I’ll keep updating if I change the specs, I appreciate all you guys who provided info and starting points!! Love this forum🇺🇸
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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 10:32 PM
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on the front I set my camber at -.4, zero toe, caster 6.8 on both sides... on the rear I also zero the toe and get the camber as positive as possible which is still around -.4 to -.6... if the rear suspension was setup like a c6z/zr1 I could just add washers to the upper control arms to get camber more positive... my car drives straight and feels stable at high speeds which is what I want, I'm not really concerned with high speed cornering ability anymore
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