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E-Force Install Advice?

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Old Apr 3, 2019 | 12:23 PM
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Default E-Force Install Advice?

So got my E-force kit in on Monday. Going to start the install today. I have everything I need. I just wanted to post and ask if there are any particular things that I need to pay extra attention too or any advice in general?

It is a 554 hp kit and I will be installing a DeWitts radiator and a Racetronix fuel pump upgrade harness at the same time.

I am going to use the Drop-the-Subframe method to get enough clearance to pin the crank. I also purchased a DeWalt 1/2" electric impact to remove the crank bolt. It has about 1000 lb-ft of torque so shouldn't have any problem removing the bolt. Also, going to install an ARP crank bolt instead of TTY bolt.

I will run the stock Edelbrock tune for a couple of weeks but I want to get a dyno tune as I do have headers. The tune is not adjusted for that and Edelbrock won't provide a tune for anything but a stock vehicle.

From what I have read, I will need to also adjust the stock suspension bolts because the extra weight of the supercharger will cause the front to drop about 1/2 to 3/4 inches.

Anything else I need to do?

Thanks.
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Old Apr 3, 2019 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

From what I have read, I will need to also adjust the stock suspension bolts because the extra weight of the supercharger will cause the front to drop about 1/2 to 3/4 inches.
While I don't have an E-Force SC, my Heartbeat SC weighs just about the same.

I don't think my GS lowered more than 1/4" after installing the SC ... Not really noticeable.
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Old Apr 3, 2019 | 07:00 PM
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Mine rubbed a lot after the install with the bolts maxed out, so I put T1 springs in the F&R to get more front clearance and for handling. But I'm a big guy.
Most folks I read reported they were okay with the lower height after the install...

Last edited by Chiselchst; Apr 3, 2019 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2019 | 12:37 PM
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Watching this thread. I'll be installing mine next month
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Old Apr 4, 2019 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Link
Watching this thread. I'll be installing mine next month
Been a bit delayed in starting my install. Hoping to begin this evening and try to finish over the weekend. I intend to take lots of pictures and post them here.

From everything I have read about the install and reviews of the kit, it seems quite straight forward. The kit itself is packaged very well. Came on a pallet in a large box. The large box contained two smaller boxes. One contained the supercharger and rail covers. The other box included everything else.

Will update with pictures soon.
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Old Apr 4, 2019 | 01:01 PM
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Good to hear! Looking forward to your write-up and photos. I've read the manual at least twice and I agree, it seems it should be a straightforward install. Where are you located?
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Old Apr 5, 2019 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe Link
Good to hear! Looking forward to your write-up and photos. I've read the manual at least twice and I agree, it seems it should be a straightforward install. Where are you located?
Indeed, I have also been reading the manual over and over as well as the install instructions for the Magneson and the A&A, mainly the procedure to pin the crank without removing the steering rack.

I am located in northern Kentucky just on the other side of the river south of Cincinnati.
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 05:20 PM
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I honestly cant say the adding the dewitts is a good idea with the oem fan IF you are in heavy traffic often.
On my C5's the Dewitts was great but on my C6Z it didnt work out well at all for a daily driver in the city.
The oem works better in heavy traffic stop and go conditions especially with A/C on. The dual fan upgrade is good but make sure you seal the shroud properly and you have a very beefy relay or even dual relays, solid state if you want to use the computer pwm modulation from factory computer and harness to run the fans AND very heavy grounds.
Furthermore with the bigger fans you may want the HP alternator. See how it adds up?
If I had to do over again I would take the trans cooler out of the radiator and go with a separate trans cooler resulting in more engine cooling capacity in the radiator.
Not sure about your kit but mine is for the LS7 Z06. The water to oil cooler that came with the eforce kit eliminated my oem Z06 factory engine oil to air cooler and now oil temps increased about 20 degrees (or exactly same as coolant temps)
The oil being too cool is just a myth hopefully we don't get into.
I would be VERY careful about who tunes the car! I let people tell me the handheld tuner was crap bla bla bla and I went to two of the supposed best tuners around and my car has never run great since especially cold starts, idle and off idle. All they did was make several WOT blasts and didnt even take the car for a drive around town which is how most of us use the car most of the time.
Sure, I could have brought it back but how many times? For the 30 horsepower it wasn't worth the headache and aggravation. If you go with smaller pulley then tuning may be needed but Edelbrock tech may be able to help first.
I have over 50k miles on the kit and it (the kit itself) hasn't missed a beat. I also spray meth through it.
Congrats and good luck!







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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by speedz06
I honestly cant say the adding the dewitts is a good idea with the oem fan IF you are in heavy traffic often.
On my C5's the Dewitts was great but on my C6Z it didnt work out well at all for a daily driver in the city.
The oem works better in heavy traffic stop and go conditions especially with A/C on. The dual fan upgrade is good but make sure you seal the shroud properly and you have a very beefy relay or even dual relays, solid state if you want to use the computer pwm modulation from factory computer and harness to run the fans AND very heavy grounds.
Furthermore with the bigger fans you may want the HP alternator. See how it adds up?
If I had to do over again I would take the trans cooler out of the radiator and go with a separate trans cooler resulting in more engine cooling capacity in the radiator.
Not sure about your kit but mine is for the LS7 Z06. The water to oil cooler that came with the eforce kit eliminated my oem Z06 factory engine oil to air cooler and now oil temps increased about 20 degrees (or exactly same as coolant temps)
The oil being too cool is just a myth hopefully we don't get into.
I would be VERY careful about who tunes the car! I let people tell me the handheld tuner was crap bla bla bla and I went to two of the supposed best tuners around and my car has never run great since especially cold starts, idle and off idle. All they did was make several WOT blasts and didnt even take the car for a drive around town which is how most of us use the car most of the time.
Sure, I could have brought it back but how many times? For the 30 horsepower it wasn't worth the headache and aggravation. If you go with smaller pulley then tuning may be needed but Edelbrock tech may be able to help first.
I have over 50k miles on the kit and it (the kit itself) hasn't missed a beat. I also spray meth through it.
Congrats and good luck!
Thanks for the advice.

I don't get into heavy traffic much so I think I should be okay with the DeWitts and factory fan. If I find that it wants to overheat, I will get the dual fan setup from DeWitts.

As for removing the factory oil cooler and installing the one with the kit, I figured that the oil would run a little hotter. My oil temps have never gone above 155 with the factory front mounted oil cooler so being at 185-195 won't make any difference. Actually, it may provide a slight power benefit. NASCAR pre-heats motor oil for all the cars before their races to 180. They have found that this give maximum power.

As far as the tune, I decided I am going to stick with the stock Edelbrock tune provided. I could spend another $500 for a custom tune but figured it wouldn't really be worth it.

I did start the install this weekend and am almost finished. It took a bit longer as I decided to remove my headers and re-install the factory exhaust as the Edelbrock tune is for a stock car. Added a few hours to the install.

So far the install has been not too bad, just time consuming. Pinning the crank was pretty easy; hardest part is getting clearance. I did not remove the steering rack, nor disconnect any power steering hoses or the cooler. Lowering the subframe, unbolting the engine mounts, and unbolting the steering rack and moving it aside gave me just enough clearance. I actually used the A&A Supercharger instructions for that part.

The Edelbrock instructions while okay could be better. More detail and better pictures would help a lot. And there are a couple of omissions in the instructions that were annoying. Part of it is just the fact that it is my first time doing the install and you just don't know what you will encounter until you do it.

Hopefully, I will get the installation finished up this afternoon.
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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 08:35 AM
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And this is why these forums are so bad. You have to be very careful who you listen too. The amount of bad advice just given is shocking.
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Old Apr 10, 2019 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

From what I have read, I will need to also adjust the stock suspension bolts because the extra weight of the supercharger will cause the front to drop about 1/2 to 3/4 inches.
FYI ..... I just measured the front height of my GS and compared it to what it was before the supercharger install:

Ground to Center of Front Wheel Well Opening

Before Install: . .26.8"
After Install: . . .26.6"
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Old Apr 10, 2019 | 09:08 PM
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You should absolutely get a custom Dyno tune to go with your supercharger this makes no sense to me not to send the extra dollars to yield more power for a custom tune vs canned tune for a blower setup. I am willing to bet you will yield 20-30 more rwhp. Just have it done at a reputable tuner. If they know what they are doing it should take them about 3 pulls to get you a optimum reliable tune.
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Old Apr 10, 2019 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by C6KWJ
You should absolutely get a custom Dyno tune to go with your supercharger this makes no sense to me not to send the extra dollars to yield more power for a custom tune vs canned tune for a blower setup. I am willing to bet you will yield 20-30 more rwhp. Just have it done at a reputable tuner. If they know what they are doing it should take them about 3 pulls to get you a optimum reliable tune.
Indeed. I am thinking that I will get a dyno tune. There is a tuner in my area of northern Kentucky called Skaats Precision Motorsports that I have read lots of good reviews of I will call him tomorrow to see when I could get a tune.
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Old Apr 10, 2019 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo6TA
FYI ..... I just measured the front height of my GS and compared it to what it was before the supercharger install:

Ground to Center of Front Wheel Well Opening

Before Install: . .26.8"
After Install: . . .26.6"
Interesting. Well, I just got done buttoning up the E-force install. My ride height before was 26 1/4 inches; after was 25 3/4 so the kit plus the Dewitts dropped the car exactly 1/2 inch. I did turn the suspension bolts exactly 3 full turns on both sides and the ride height is now back to exactly the before measurement.
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Old Apr 10, 2019 | 09:45 PM
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I would also suggest speaking from experience to have them install a smaller pulley for more boost and power before you Dyno tune perhaps a 3.6” pulley. What size you running now. You will regret it if you don’t you always what more power
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Old Apr 11, 2019 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by C6KWJ
I would also suggest speaking from experience to have them install a smaller pulley for more boost and power before you Dyno tune perhaps a 3.6” pulley. What size you running now. You will regret it if you don’t you always what more power
It is running the standard 3.8 pulley. I may go to a smaller pulley in the future. Right now, I have decided that I am going to upgrade the clutch first to prepare for any future power upgrades.

And I think that my stock clutch may be slipping at full power. The clutch felt a bit soft before and now with the supercharger, light and part throttle up to about 75%, you can feel the increased pull of the car. But when I drop the hammer, the RPM's do rise but the car isn't accelerating like it should and then when I let off a little bit, it feels like the clutch catches. I really need to drive it more to confirm but I am pretty sure. I bought the car with 19K miles on it and I don't know if the clutch was abused or not but I suspect it was.

I know a lot of people don't have any issue with the stock clutch but I want to have no doubt that I can use the full power when I want to. So I ordered a Monster LT1-S twin disk from Tick Performance.

And this will prepare the car for further power increases in the future if I want to go to a smaller pulley, etc.

Last edited by Spaceme1117; Apr 11, 2019 at 02:36 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2019 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by C6KWJ
I would also suggest speaking from experience to have them install a smaller pulley for more boost and power before you Dyno tune perhaps a 3.6” pulley. What size you running now. You will regret it if you don’t you always what more power
So my plans have changed again. Jumped the gun on thinking my clutch was slipping. Turns out my clutch wasn't slipping after all. Inspected my car thoroughly and I also wanted to change out the spark plugs to some NGK TR6IX's. Couldn't find anything wrong with the install and the car idles fine and no codes either. Went ahead and changed out the plugs and when I went to pop off the plug wires on the drivers side, two of the plug boots were just barely resting on the end of the spark plugs. And that was the problem. What was so weird is that the car idled just fine and slight and even part throttle the car also would pull great. But WOT it made the car fall on its face and seemed like the clutch was slipping.

Confirmed the car is pulling great and working great now. The kit definitely adds power throughout the RPM range. It's not a mind blowing difference from before; just feels like the car is much more solid and confidence inspiring.

And I am definitely thinking that I can upgrade to the 3.5" pulley and add a Boost-A-Pump. So going to do that. I think I may still go with the upgraded clutch as it is true, you always want more power.
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