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Hi - C6 GS dry sump with blower cam, meth, LT's, and A&A TI running 8lbs boost. Makes 730rwhp is running very warm on the street, for example I'll run oil temp of 230-235 on freeway at 70-75mph, temps will jump to 240-255 if I get on it or go up a long incline. Coolant temps stay about 10-20 degrees lower...
Went to two shops for fix.
Shop A recommends: SPAL brushless fans, drilled T-stat, foam around fan shroud to enclose it and force air to be drawn through radiator. Quote ~$1700.
Shop B recommends: Keep stock fan, enclose shroud with foam, custom side mounted oil cooler with 212* thermostat. Quote $1850.
If you have cooling issues at highway speeds, you have issues beyond the fan. If coolant temps are an issue in traffic, the Prospeed dual fan set up is a good mod. Have you cleaned the AC condenser and radiator yet?
If you have cooling issues at highway speeds, you have issues beyond the fan. If coolant temps are an issue in traffic, the Prospeed dual fan set up is a good mod. Have you cleaned the AC condenser and radiator yet?
I can idle all day in 100* temps and be fine with steady oil and coolant temps as fans seem to do there job. Radiator is fairly new and does not appear to be blocked, I'll have to poke around and inspect AC condensor. For what its worth car wasn't running hot till right after the recent cam install, temps were fine with just blower.
Last edited by castlerock_z06; Jul 29, 2019 at 08:17 PM.
Hi - C6 GS dry sump with blower cam, meth, LT's, and A&A TI running 8lbs boost. Makes 730rwhp is running very warm on the street, for example I'll run oil temp of 230-235 on freeway at 70-75mph, temps will jump to 240-255 if I get on it or go up a long incline. Coolant temps stay about 10-20 degrees lower...
Went to two shops for fix.
Shop A recommends: SPAL brushless fans, drilled T-stat, foam around fan shroud to enclose it and force air to be drawn through radiator. Quote ~$1700.
Shop B recommends: Keep stock fan, enclose shroud with foam, custom side mounted oil cooler with 212* thermostat. Quote $1850.
Would you do A, B, or ?
Something is not right. Those oil temps are too high even for a modified car.
As far as I know, the A&A kit still retains the Z06-style front mount oil cooler that the GS has. Just cruising at freeway speeds, you shouldn't see much higher oil temps than before. Can you confirm that your car still has the front mount oil cooler?
While I think there is something not right with your car, I would also recommend a DeWitts radiator and some sort of auxillary oil cooler. My E-force kit cam with a ZR1-style block mounted oil cooler and I also installed a DeWitts at the same time. You could also get a DeWitts that has the internal oil cooler on the drivers side radiator end tank and get the oil lines that connect from the oil pan to that for an aux oil cooler.
With my E-force, DeWitts, and aux oil cooler, my oil temps stay near 195 to 205 and my coolant temp is about 205 to 215 regardless of idling, cruising, or giving it the beans.
Something is not right. Those oil temps are too high even for a modified car.
As far as I know, the A&A kit still retains the Z06-style front mount oil cooler that the GS has. Just cruising at freeway speeds, you shouldn't see much higher oil temps than before. Can you confirm that your car still has the front mount oil cooler?
While I think there is something not right with your car, I would also recommend a DeWitts radiator and some sort of auxillary oil cooler. My E-force kit cam with a ZR1-style block mounted oil cooler and I also installed a DeWitts at the same time. You could also get a DeWitts that has the internal oil cooler on the drivers side radiator end tank and get the oil lines that connect from the oil pan to that for an aux oil cooler.
With my E-force, DeWitts, and aux oil cooler, my oil temps stay near 195 to 205 and my coolant temp is about 205 to 215 regardless of idling, cruising, or giving it the beans.
Have a Dewitts, but I'm thinking a 19 row custom oil auxillary cooler would make big difference. I also drive at high elevation, 6000-10000ft, so the air is thinner and there is less airflow to cool with. Before cam I ran 10-15* cooler at sea level in the Mojave Desert during 110* than I did in the mountains with 85* temps.
I also drive at high elevation, 6000-10000ft, so the air is thinner and there is less airflow to cool with. Before cam I ran 10-15* cooler at sea level in the Mojave Desert during 110* than I did in the mountains with 85* temps.
That's not quite how that works.... as others have mentioned make sure there are no air pockets in the cooling system. I had an ECS kit and when I had the top plate removed the car would run substantially hotter.
excessive oil temp and coolant temp are two different things. As oil or coolant temp rise the other does as well. Although your coolant temps appear to be stable.
Id invest in an oil cooler setup, stock, dewit built in or aftermarket stand alone cooler.
Something is not right. Those oil temps are too high even for a modified car.
As far as I know, the A&A kit still retains the Z06-style front mount oil cooler that the GS has. Just cruising at freeway speeds, you shouldn't see much higher oil temps than before. Can you confirm that your car still has the front mount oil cooler?
While I think there is something not right with your car, I would also recommend a DeWitts radiator and some sort of auxillary oil cooler. My E-force kit cam with a ZR1-style block mounted oil cooler and I also installed a DeWitts at the same time. You could also get a DeWitts that has the internal oil cooler on the drivers side radiator end tank and get the oil lines that connect from the oil pan to that for an aux oil cooler.
With my E-force, DeWitts, and aux oil cooler, my oil temps stay near 195 to 205 and my coolant temp is about 205 to 215 regardless of idling, cruising, or giving it the beans.
I don't have a GS, but my Z51 oil cooler no longer fit with my A&A install.
I believe it was in earlier years. But my 2008 M6 had an external cooler mounted by the AC condenser.
I think the power steering cooler was mounted externally by the condenser, and the TOC and EOC were plumbed through the radiator. I have an '08 Z51 M6 too, and am swapping to a Dewitts soon.
I think the power steering cooler was mounted externally by the condenser, and the TOC and EOC were plumbed through the radiator. I have an '08 Z51 M6 too, and am swapping to a Dewitts soon.
Can anybody else chime in on this?
I am 100% certain that mine had an external oil cooler as I removed it when I installed the super charger. I also had to buy a block off plate to install at the oil pan where the oiler cooler lines were run. Not sure what year the change occured to external.
It's external, but it's different than the external Z06 oil cooler.
I plan to keep it this way though. I didn't like how cool my oil temp ran with the oil cooler. It seldom got above 200° unless it was 100° ambient temps and I'm sitting in rush hour.
It does hit 230-235° daily now, and sometimes up to 250°. But I'm ok with those temps.
Edit: found a bit of detail in another thread.
Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
The power steering cooler on the Z51 has nothing to do with the radiator. It mounts behind the radiator on the cross member just forward of the steering rack.
It looks like this...
Engine oil coolers on our Vettes are either fluid-to-fluid heat exchangers or air-to-fluid. Beginning in 2008 manual transmission Z51 cars had this air-to-oil cooler which mounted forward of the radiator on the driver's side.
A common upgrade to the smaller Z51 oil cooler shown above is the Z06 cooler (below). While the Z51 cooler is only 7" wide, the Z06 cooler is a full 22" wide and spans the entire width of the radiator. It is a direct replacement for the smaller Z51 cooler. It uses the same oil lines as the external Z51 cooler and uses the same mounting holes on the driver's side. You do have to add two holes on the passenger side of the plastic baffle for the mounting bolts...easy enough.
The Z06 radiator DOES NOT have an internal engine oil cooler, only a transmission cooler. The general consensus is that 2005-2007 automatic transmission Z51 cars do not have engine oil coolers...only the manual transmission cars do. The radiator below has transmission (automatic or manual) cooling only.
If your car has both the EOC and TOC it will look like this...
There is another variant which has neither an EOC nor TOC. It is used with the non-Z51 cars that have a manual transmission. It's the one in the foreground.
Ahhhh okay. Thanks for sourcing that info. I replaced my harmonic balancer a few months back and had to deal with the PS cooler on the crossmember. I guess I've never seen the EOC.
Why did you have to delete the EOC when you installed the A&A kit? I bought my car with a Procharger installed (otherwise stock), and now I'm questioning if my oil cooler was removed as well, since I typically see the same oil temps that you're describing (220*+ anytime it's hotter than 85* outside). My oil temp only stays below 210* when it's the dead of winter.
Ahhhh okay. Thanks for sourcing that info. I replaced my harmonic balancer a few months back and had to deal with the PS cooler on the crossmember. I guess I've never seen the EOC.
Why did you have to delete the EOC when you installed the A&A kit? I bought my car with a Procharger installed (otherwise stock), and now I'm questioning if my oil cooler was removed as well, since I typically see the same oil temps that you're describing (220*+ anytime it's hotter than 85* outside). My oil temp only stays below 210* when it's the dead of winter.
I deleted the EOC for the A&A kit because it got in the way of one of the components. At this point I can't remember which part of the AA kit that was affected. You can relocate the external oil cooler if you choose, ECS even sells a kit for it I believe. However, I wanted it gone to raise oil temps. Here is a short thread with a small amount of info on it. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
Are you seeing 220° at highway speeds, or in traffic? That's a good temp in my opinion, but with the oil cooler it would likely be lower than that. I'm guessing your EOC was deleted. You can check if there is a block off plate on the driver side of the oil pan, or if there is still a line running from it. I tried to find a quick pic online for what to look for but came up empty.
I deleted the EOC for the A&A kit because it got in the way of one of the components. At this point I can't remember which part of the AA kit that was affected. You can relocate the external oil cooler if you choose, ECS even sells a kit for it I believe. However, I wanted it gone to raise oil temps. Here is a short thread with a small amount of info on it. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
Are you seeing 220° at highway speeds, or in traffic? That's a good temp in my opinion, but with the oil cooler it would likely be lower than that. I'm guessing your EOC was deleted. You can check if there is a block off plate on the driver side of the oil pan, or if there is still a line running from it. I tried to find a quick pic online for what to look for but came up empty.
I'm gonna have to check on the EOC when I get home. I'll push 220* in the winter on some spirited canyon runs (California). I've barely driven it this summer so far (on blocks doing work), so I can't say off the top of my head what oil temps I'll get. Once it's back on 4 wheels next week I'll have to see. I know 240* was NOT hard to achieve though during late Spring - only a few freeway pulls and it was HOT. So, I'm switching to the Dewitts. After this thread I'm guessing my EOC was deleted as well.
Last edited by theandrewo; Aug 1, 2019 at 02:45 PM.
Hi - C6 GS dry sump with blower cam, meth, LT's, and A&A TI running 8lbs boost. Makes 730rwhp is running very warm on the street, for example I'll run oil temp of 230-235 on freeway at 70-75mph, temps will jump to 240-255 if I get on it or go up a long incline. Coolant temps stay about 10-20 degrees lower...
Went to two shops for fix.
Shop A recommends: SPAL brushless fans, drilled T-stat, foam around fan shroud to enclose it and force air to be drawn through radiator. Quote ~$1700.
Shop B recommends: Keep stock fan, enclose shroud with foam, custom side mounted oil cooler with 212* thermostat. Quote $1850.
Would you do A, B, or ?
out of the 2 choices, Shop A....Then if you want later on, just add a small spal fan to the existing oil cooler, or go with a larger row oil cooler with fan...Also did the shop that did the install adjust the fan speeds at all , or is the high speed still set to come on around the 230's range ? Casper Electronics has a plug and play harness that lets YOU control the fan speed from inside the car via a small switch you mount. You can command the fan to come on when you want at either a 1. Low setting or 2. high speed setting, or just let the switch set in the middle position for stock ECM control of the fan. I bought one for my FI setup that pushes almost 670 to the wheel. Shop B does not sound like a deal at all for what you get. For less than both of those prices , you can go with a fan and dual core radiator set up ( DEWITTS ) designed exactly to fit your car. Ideally that is your best option, especially when they run their 10% off sale.
Last edited by renegade123; Aug 2, 2019 at 10:22 AM.
As a follow up: I went with oil the oil cooler, also removed fog lights to allow more airflow through oil cooler. Took the car up a steep grade (5500ft elevation to 8500ft) which previously had the oil hit about 245* while holding a steady ~2000rpm. With the new oil cooler in similar air temps the oil peaked at about 200*. A week later I took the car on a 3000 mile drive. Going from Denver through the Rockies, 100*+ desert in Utah, Arizona, and Las Vegas. The oil stayed in the 180* to 190* range cruising in 6th at about 75-80mph. Hottest it got was about 215 after an hour of horrible 95* bumper to bumper California traffic. I can now run AC full blast (unlike before) and drive aggressive and not overheat. Very glad I did this. See attached pics.
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Cooling problems, which option would you do?
