What are you guys using for a torque value for ARP head bolts? I'm about to swap mine out one by one (so toi don't compromise the hg) and I know they don't require the factory torque to stretch sequence/specs. Thanks

 

Go to the ARP website and look up the instructions for the particular kit you have

 

I believe the torque spec's are on the package maybe?

 

You can look up the instruction with the tightening sequence on the ARP website.

 

There should be an instruction sheet with torque specs and head bolt tightening sequence in the box.

 

Instructions should be in the box, but I did 3 steps: 25 ft/lbs, 50 ft/lbs, and 75ft/lbs. Dont forget to use the ARP lube on the bolt heads and washers

 

Good advice. That’s way to do it, following the sequence per the ARP instructions.
And of course, make sure that you clean the threads in the block properly:
If you don’t have or don’t want to foot the bill for an expensive thread cleaning tap, just do what I did and take a stock head bolt and cut two grooves down the length of the threads and make it into a cleaning tool. Just make sure there’s no burrs on the threads from making the cuts.
To get the bolt holes clean, use BrakKleen or other similar solvent and some big-*** medical swabs to wipe out the gunk, then finish by blowing them out out with compressed air. You want those bolt holes clean and completely dry. The new head bolts should thread in easily by using your fingers. Test every bolt hole and once your happy with them, then you can start assembly.
Another thing you want to do is to make sure that you install the washers the correct way round and try your best to only put the ARP moly lube on upper side of the washer, so that the lube is between the underside of the bolt-head and the washer. The idea is to provide a sort of “bearing surface” between the washer and the bolt, by ensuring that the washer “bites” on the head and does not rotate, so that it doesn’t gall the aluminum cylinder head. So, make sure that you wipe off any lube that gets on the down side of the washer.
It’s tedious, but necessary. I think I spent a whole day and went through a whole roll of shop rags and two or three cans of brake clean when I was doing this, lol.

 

More good advice. I also use an old bolt when i do this job. Also using a large plastic straw duct taped to your small shop vac attachment ensures that no water or debris is left in the bolt holes after you are done chasing them

 

Instructions? Bah!

Torque until one snaps, then remove it, and replace it, then torque them all to 5ftlbs less.

 

Then again, there's that!

 

sounds about right for the ls1tech Chinese head stud threads