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What are you guys doing to keep your corvette’s coolant temps down? In Texas dry heat. Even it being 88° outside my car will get to 237. I tested the theory of a heat extractor hood before buying I removed hood and it still got up to 230°. I have a 3 row radiator and Spal fans on the stock fan harness. Any insight will help thank you.
I have always wondered if the problem lies within the tune. There are so many sporadic people with this issue and lucky for me, my car never gets over 220 in traffic and I am running a stock radiator and stock fan setup without the front shroud. summers here get around 100-105 regularly.
Dewitts came out with an awesome fan shroud that has a Spal Brushless 17 fan. I put that on my car this time around as it was a cheaper then the pro speed dual fan setup.
So far car has never gotten over 195 driving it in traffic in 85-95 degree day. I also only have distilled water and a bottle of wetter water this time around as well.
My car has a short Dewitts radiator built motor, YSI setup
Last edited by WestCyril; May 30, 2020 at 12:45 PM.
Yeah, but you have one of those “heat sink” PD blowers that never makes enough power to overheat!
Must be because the blower sucks all the heat out of the block!
My old PD junk also never gets over 195-200 degrees, even in 95 degree weather and I even threw away my (front) radiator shroud years ago. I have a Dewitts rad, which is great made no noticeable difference to cooling, and a stock fan, which I will change at some point to the 2005 full-shroud model fan module, which seems to be the best bang-for-the-buck cooling mod on these cars.
The biggest problem in these cars is getting air through the radiator and with the centri cars with those big/thick FMICs, it looks like the magical thing is to get the right fan(s) to pull enough air through the radiator.
RK Sport Heat Extraction Hood
Rear Hood Seal Removed
Engine Ice Coolant
Relocated Radiator to Create more gap from intercooler
160 degree thermostat
Dewitts Radiator
Dual Spal Fans that come on earlier than stock
Radiator boxed
Trans and Oil Coolers behind fog light locations with fog lights removed for ventilation
I am out of ideas and the damn thing's temp shoots to 220+ in traffic (with A/C off) or the staging lanes. I have learned to live with it.
Last edited by BIGMAC; Jun 2, 2020 at 07:19 AM.
Reason: typo
RK Sport Heat Extraction Hood
Rear Hood Seal Removed
Engine Ice Coolant
Relocated Radiator to Create more gap from intercooler
Dewitts Radiator
Dual Spal Fans that come on earlier than stock
Radiator boxed
Trans and Oil Coolers behind fog light locations with fog lights removed for ventilation
I am out of ideas and the damn thing's temp shoots to 220+ in traffic (with A/C off) or the staging lanes. I have learned to live with it.
not all spal fans are created equal, some of them are actually worse then the factory fans. The Prospeed fan actually work and a lot of that has to do with the shroud and how they pull air through. 220-225 is perfectly fine though.
I agree that sometimes it has to do with tuning. I basically run my fans at 89% (since I’ve heard that anything over 90% fries the factory connector) for everything over 180* (I think).
I also bought one of these, but haven’t installed it as yet: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cei-102159
I probably will though, since it will allow me to cool the motor and IATs down after a run/between rounds by running the fan with the engine off, once I have the battery on a charger.
The is the 2005 full shroud fan assembly I referred to before: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432739&jsn=472
The later model C6 fans have half the shroud missing, which can’t be good for low speed cooling, which is where these cars struggle to keep cool.
Dewitts came out with an awesome fan shroud that has a Spal Brushless 17 fan. I put that on my car this time around as it was a cheaper then the pro speed dual fan setup.
So far car has never gotten over 195 driving it in traffic in 85-95 degree day. I also only have distilled water and a bottle of wetter water this time around as well.
My car has a short Dewitts radiator built motor, YSI setup
I had a hell of a time getting temps down for my z06 eforce with dewitts radiator and prospeed (D3) fans but there was an inch gap around the shroud. I did find that the wimpy relay they provide was failing constantly and that it must have been a voltage drop point.
. Also the single 10ga ground they included and the little spal fans. 2 10 ga power wires ought to equal 2 10ga ground wires! 2 relays!
The fans soaked up high amps and once I got reliable power from a large solid state marine relay and heavy grounds they worked much better.
My plan is to seal the shroud and change to a radiator without a trans cooler then make a remote trans cooler. But that is even more $!
Now I see you mentioning a single brushless fan. (The c7 Z07 has a similar upgrade from GMPP)
. I will definitely look into that.
Does the shroud seal tightly to the radiator?
One issue is the D3 fans do not fit the dewitts very well at all.
Shame to have to spend so much time and money it makes no sense that my car should run so hot in traffic.
People mention the tune and I wonder also if timing is off. The tuner shops spend most of their time WOT on the dyno.
Maybe someone can tell me where timing ought to be at idle when hot.
I have always wondered if the problem lies within the tune. There are so many sporadic people with this issue and lucky for me, my car never gets over 220 in traffic and I am running a stock radiator and stock fan setup without the front shroud. summers here get around 100-105 regularly.
I have a great tuner and already talked to him and has them turning on at Like 192° 25% and it ramps to 90% by like 210
Dewitt’s radiator and a Prospeed dual spal fan set up. Do that and you’ll be 👍🏻
I make 1k+whp and in southern Mississippi 90+ air temps 220-225 max temps I’ve ever seen. That’s traffic and AC on...if I’ve got the belt on lol
definitely going to look into this. I have Dewitt’s and 2 spal fans just don’t know which spal fans. Also have a 416ci with a ysi and a undersized FMIC
Yeah, but you have one of those “heat sink” PD blowers that never makes enough power to overheat!
Must be because the blower sucks all the heat out of the block!
My old PD junk also never gets over 195-200 degrees, even in 95 degree weather and I even threw away my (front) radiator shroud years ago. I have a Dewitts rad, which is great made no noticeable difference to cooling, and a stock fan, which I will change at some point to the 2005 full-shroud model fan module, which seems to be the best bang-for-the-buck cooling mod on these cars.
The biggest problem in these cars is getting air through the radiator and with the centri cars with those big/thick FMICs, it looks like the magical thing is to get the right fan(s) to pull enough air through the radiator.
gonna try this when installing the new FMIC I got coming in. It’s larger than the A&A FMIC I have now and thicker so I will try to find a way to mount that in a laying position
I'm running ECS 1500 with a vented hood, prospeed fans, full size dewitt, straight distilled water, and cut some sheet metal side panels to try and deflect air to the intercooler/ rad.
Haven't seen over 210 in Houston yet.
I also upgraded the alternator to a mechman 170 amp
RK Sport Heat Extraction Hood
Rear Hood Seal Removed
Engine Ice Coolant
Relocated Radiator to Create more gap from intercooler
Dewitts Radiator
Dual Spal Fans that come on earlier than stock
Radiator boxed
Trans and Oil Coolers behind fog light locations with fog lights removed for ventilation
I am out of ideas and the damn thing's temp shoots to 220+ in traffic (with A/C off) or the staging lanes. I have learned to live with it.
I would have thought that moving the eoc/toc out of the radiator would have made a big difference....that is my plan even though I have no cooling issues
I had a hell of a time getting temps down for my z06 eforce with dewitts radiator and prospeed (D3) fans but there was an inch gap around the shroud. I did find that the wimpy relay they provide was failing constantly and that it must have been a voltage drop point.
. Also the single 10ga ground they included and the little spal fans. 2 10 ga power wires ought to equal 2 10ga ground wires! 2 relays!
The fans soaked up high amps and once I got reliable power from a large solid state marine relay and heavy grounds they worked much better.
My plan is to seal the shroud and change to a radiator without a trans cooler then make a remote trans cooler. But that is even more $!
Now I see you mentioning a single brushless fan. (The c7 Z07 has a similar upgrade from GMPP)
. I will definitely look into that.
Does the shroud seal tightly to the radiator?
One issue is the D3 fans do not fit the dewitts very well at all.
Shame to have to spend so much time and money it makes no sense that my car should run so hot in traffic.
People mention the tune and I wonder also if timing is off. The tuner shops spend most of their time WOT on the dyno.
Maybe someone can tell me where timing ought to be at idle when hot.
It may be be that low idle timing might contribute to higher temps, but that’s not something I’ve ever tested myself, so I don’t know for sure. I can tell you that I’m running ~20* of base timing at idle, but I’m sure if that helps keep temps down.
Being boosted, fighting heat
