So I have a 2008 LS3 A6 with about 83k miles.
Purchased the A&A kit and I'm going to be installing first chance I get. I'm going with the 3.8 inch pulley, headers and x-pipe, 60# injectors and no other mods. Wanting 550rwhp and a safe tune - should be pretty doable.
There's a few things I have been looking at potentially adding but can't decide if I need them or not...
First question is about oil and trans coolers... will I need to upgrade mine from stock? I do Auto-X monthly, plus occasionally go to my local 1/8th mile track for a few passes. Outside of that it's occasional instances of spirtited driving on the highway.
If I should upgrade, links to possible upgrades would be appreciated, the more bolt-on the better so I can possibly DIY it.
Next question - some people talk about changing harmonic balancer, is this something I should do while installing the kit? If yes, can you link me a good one that I should install?
(BTW, noob question, but harmonic balancer pulley and crackshaft pulley are the same thing, right?)
Outside of that, is there anything else I should look into that I'm missing?
I'm very excited to go to forced induction and I just want to make sure my build is safe and that I haven't overlooked anything. This will be my first non NA built corvette!

 

oil and trans coolers would be nice but not needed. I believe everyone who has gone with a supercharger will recommend and probably say switching to an aftermarket balancer is mandatory. OEM are failure prone running them stock, much less putting the extra load of a supercharger on it. you have to pin the balancer anyway, so spend the extra half hour and replace it. I went the budget route and got the summit balancer and haven't had any issues.

 

Powerbond race balancers are really good. You will just need to find the proper part number for your application.

As for cooling, I would recommend a DeWitts radiator. More power means more heat. And there should be a DeWitts that is compatible with the A&A kit. And you can get a version of the DeWitts that has an oil cooler in the drivers side end tank. You then use factory GM cooler lines to connect it to the oil pan in place of a block off above where the oil filler is. DeWitts also sells the GM lines.

 

I was looking on Summit, someone else mentioned there was a good one from there but I'm not sure which one they mean. Can you send me a link of the right one?

 

Everything Spaceme1117 said. I recommend a dewitts radiator and the powerbond balancer. You can get other radiators, I believe A&A and Mishimoto make quality options, but DeWitts is the most commonly preferred aftermarket radiator.
An ATI balancer is the more pricy/quality option, but not necessary IMO, particularly for your build. Summit makes one which I think is cheaper than the Powerbond but I’m not sure about reviews in that. Powerbond is prob the most popular.
Youll want to research the correct part number/application for each of these components.

 

I think the proper balancer you need is the DAYCO PB1117SS.

 

If changing to DeWitt’s is the shorter version preferred for an A&A kit? It sure seems logical. I have been researching the A&A also and see several people having problems with the Stock radiator still being to tall after trimming the top lip and dropping the radiator support. Some have even smashed the top row of fins. Any thoughts on this for the OP?

 

I talked to A&A about a Dewitts radiator and they said I shouldn't need it since my car is wet sump. I've started the process and my stock radiator looks like it's in fantastic condition still so I'm hoping to be able to continue using it. Thanks for your consideration, though!

Hoping I don't need it!

 

I installed a full size Dewitts. (08 z51 with A&A bracket and Procharger p1) Only had to do some minor trimming on the plastic shroud (if I remember correctly). I've read the short Dewitts has about the same cooling capacity as the stock rad. No personal experience though.

I have a wet sump and I needed one, and I'm only running 5lbs boost. I live in central Cali so temps reach 110+ in the summer. Vette did NOT like that.

 

Agree. More power means more heat. Get a DeWitts.

And remember, you are not just cooling the engine oil; you are also cooling the trans fluid.

 

I am glad you spoke to DeWitts. My car is LS3 A6 wet sump too, so I guess I would not need it either. I wonder what is different with the Dry Sump setup that they would need it? Must be the radiator sits higher maybe? Good Luck!

 

Radiator sits in the same place.

Honestly, I would think a wet-sump car would be more prone to needing a higher capacity radiator as there is less oil in the system (6 quarts for ls3, 5.5 for ls2). On the dry sump cars, the system holds 10.5 to 11 quarts of oil.

Your car, your decision.

I just think that you might as well while you are doing the work.

 

Just to eliminate any confusion. I am only asking/commenting on the need for DeWitts shorter radiator for C6 supercharger applications. Comment by OP led me to believe that DeWitts told him that the shorter radiator typically is used by people with dry sumps in their cars. I found that comment to be interesting and wondered if anyone had any reason why that would be. I am going to call A&A and DeWitts as well prior to making the purchase so I can make sure I have everything covered. Looks like DeWitts radiators are top notch. I just don't know if short or standard height DeWitts would be the way to go. Ill ask the experts at both places for guidance. Happy Holidays Fellas.

 

Please let me know what you find out.

For context: I talked to A&A about whether or not I should buy the Dewitts Radiator that the gentleman was offering to sell me that sold me his used A&A kit. They stated that it wasn't necessary on my car because my car is wet sump. I took this at face value and didn't bother asking questions, I was happy to hear I didn't need to spend the extra few hundred dollars. I'd love to know what you find out. 🍻

 

The reason why they say wet sump doesn’t require the DeWitts is because they don’t have an oil cooler that must be removed when installing the kit.

 

I have similar set up on my ls2

I purchased a used A&A kit and installed it on my car.

First thing I would suggest is to get an aftermarket harmonic balancer NOW! All the labor to get to the stock one to Pin it, you might as well spend a few hundred dollars and replace the stock balancer while you're in there .... .otherwise you'll spend twice as much WHEN (not if) the stock balancer fails. Just do it now. while you're at it, go with a 10% overdrive 8 rib. that way if you decide to go 8 rib later, your main pulley (balancer ) is already set up. I went with the powerbond . got it from Rock auto for like $275.

as for radiator..... after my install, I noticed my car ran hotter and the fan was CONTANTLY on when cruising on hot summer day (80 degrees +). the oil and water temps were constantly at 230-40 +. I ended up getting a great deal on the dewitts shorty w/ tranny cooler and oil cooler built in. install was not bad and car runs much cooler now. Plus, now I have external oil cooler.

what's your plan for a tune? do you have a local tuner? if not, you can send your PCM to A&A and they will flash a base tune that matches your current upgrades and you will be able to drive it for a whiel to make sure you don't have any issues, leaks, etc before you take it to get tuned.

You will want to look at getting AFR gage (with wideband) and possibly fuel psi.

oh.... you will need tires that grip! in cooler weather (60 or below) i had traction issues. almost lost it a couple times doing 60 MPH rolls with my buddy because lost traction and went sideways. the next day I ordered Nitto nt05r's and it's MUCH better now