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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 01:10 PM
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Default Win Lite Wheels

Looking for people's experiences with the billet specialties,Win Lite wheels,getting close to Getting a 17"x4.5" front, 15"x10' rear setup, curious about anyone's fitment,weight of wheel,if it required anything crazy to fit the back , already got a spindle kit,have read the bottom arm needs a little grinding too,no biggie,also im aware I may need a smaller brake kit in the back,also no biggie. I'm mostly wanting to comfirm weight,from research I've seen 13lbs. For the front, 15.4 for the rear,non beadlock. Thanks.
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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 11:06 PM
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I think your best bet is contact Carlisle Racing since they are a dealer for Billet Specialties and have a lot of experience with corvette plateform.
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Al_Scrap
I think your best bet is contact Carlisle Racing since they are a dealer for Billet Specialties and have a lot of experience with corvette plateform.
I have,if I do it I will most likely purchase from them,but the sales guy told me all the different brand wheels are within ounces of each other,kinda a broad term lol
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 08:21 AM
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I’m running the Billet Specialties Street Lites in the exact sizes you want. I looked at the Win Lites myself and had even tried to order a set initially but they were on backorder, so I then ordered the Street Lites instead.

Then, when I got those, I discovered that the 15x10s rears couldn’t fit over the calipers on my Carlyle/Wilwood 15” wheel kit, because the barrel of the wheel was necked down (picture below).
Turns out I should’ve ordered the “F-Body” version of the same wheel, which has a full width barrel. I ended up having a nightmare shipping them back overseas to Jegs, just before the whole world went COVID-stupid, and then had to wait 4 months to get the replacements.

You need to call Billet Specialties yourself and verify that the barrel of 15x10 rears are the same size throughout, like the F-Body Street Lites. They should be able to tell you if they can fit on a Vette with the small brake kit, which you will most definitely need. I’m pretty sure I asked that and they verified it, because after I sent the original ones back and found out they were in backorder, I was considering running Win Lites on the rear with the 17x4.5 Street Lites up front.

But be sure to ask them before you order to avoid any B.S. BS (yeah, maybe they should’ve thought it through properly before they gave themselves a name that initialises as “BS”).
Having said all that, these things look way better than my previous Welds, and they look like fine jewellery and are light as hell. so I’m happy with them.

They fit nicely, albeit very closely, especially on the front, but I’m running them without any spacers. So, if the WLs are the exact same shape inside the barrel as the SLs, you’ll be fine.

On the lower control arms, I’m including a few pictures so you can see what needs to be clearanced for the 15” wheel. Please note that I followed the pictures a saw online and ended up taking off more material than was necessary, which you can see when you’re looking into the back of the wheel with the suspension loaded.


These are the original 15x10s that I got, which I believe B.S. has discontinued now. Can’t imagine what the hell these could fit, other than a 60-70s muscle car with drum brakes...


The front are a very close fit to my stock GS/Z06 calipers, but they clear all the same.


My entire front wheel weight is just under 24lbs with the M&H front runners (biased ply)


These are the 15x10 “F-Body” wheels, which look real nice, especially with the beadlocks. What I love about beadlocks is that I can mount my tires myself, without worrying about some ******* ruining my wheels on a tire machine.



You can see from this angle that the majority of the material need to come off the rear corner of the control arm.


Here’s a close up, but at a not so great angle


This is what my control stems looked like when I finished cutting them


This shows how much I took off.

Last edited by CI GS; Dec 6, 2020 at 08:30 AM.
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 05:23 PM
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Thank you for the pics
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 05:49 PM
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Yeah I thought about the beadlock too,but it's rather expensive and from my experience from my 05 gto stick car without screws or beadlocks the tire never moved,well maybee 2" over 2 years lol,that was with stiffwall slicks,and then a set of QTP ,both cut 1.5's and ran a best of 10.30, I miss that car lol
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Heathmb
Yeah I thought about the beadlock too,but it's rather expensive and from my experience from my 05 gto stick car without screws or beadlocks the tire never moved,well maybee 2" over 2 years lol,that was with stiffwall slicks,and then a set of QTP ,both cut 1.5's and ran a best of 10.30, I miss that car lol
Yeah, I hear you. I think most people buy beadlocks for the look. Would be lying if I said that wasn’t part of it for me too, lol.
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 09:08 PM
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Man my right arm is sore fron all the grinding lol,I'm surprised the angle grinder is taking so long with it being aluminum I figured it would be a cake walk 😆
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Heathmb
Man my right arm is sore fron all the grinding lol,I'm surprised the angle grinder is taking so long with it being aluminum I figured it would be a cake walk 😆
I hear you and feel your pain! The problem with grinding aluminum is that it clogs up the grinding wheel. Mine didn’t take me too long to do, though, even though I cut more material off than I needed to.
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