gn4life

Picked up a 2012 Grand Sport M6 last month. Already a little bored with the car due to it being 100% bone stock (3rd vette. Other 2 modded and faster).

My issues with the big Centri setups
- I love the way the car handles and I don't want to impact the handling by putting extra weight towards one corner of the car
-The car will see a lot of time in Arizona heat when not in Ohio.
-I would like to occasionally track day or road coarse the car

My issues with Twin screw positive displacement set-ups
- Hood clearance. I want to retain my stock hood. The lines and look of a wide body c6 are perfect to me. I'm not even willing to go ZR1 hood to accommodate a LSA setup.
- Have heard very bad things about the E-force LS3 kits
- Typically the under hood units lack the gains and peak #s of the centrifugal set ups for similar prices. Seem under powered in comparison

So are there any under hood setups that can hit all my sweet spots???
1. Daily drive with close to factory LS reliability
2. No running hot or heat issues after multiple spirited street runs
3. capable of 700+ RWHP
4. Capable of track days or road course without ending earlier than a stock car due to heating issues
5. Are the Magnuson heartbeat kits any better than the edelbrock e-force kits even though its the same blower core?
6. Fit under stock hood

Open to all suggestions and tips. Thanks in advance guys.

Unreal

Build a 416/427 NA motor and enjoy. Realistically a blower is not for you with those requirements. Extra weight of a centri on one corner makes no difference.

Or sell it and buy a zr1. Far far far cheaper and better option.

gn4life

Thanks for the time and input man, much appreciated . I had wanted to stay SBE but I guess at $8gs + i'm in some budget built N/A motor territory as an option. Buying a ZR1 is not an option. I wanted an Inferno Orange,Atomic Orange, Carlisle blue, or Jet Stream blue car. I don't have the patience to wait for one of those at book price in today's CRAZY used car market. I'm also moving and buying a house and a ZR1 is more than 2x the price of what I paid for this mint Grand Sport. I am already seeing BASE model C6s with more miles and autos going for as much as I paid for this Inferno Orange 40,000mi Grand Sport 6speed. So I would be scared to double my note or spend an additional 30gs plus of my liquidity right now. I'm also not a big fan of the ZR1 larger cowl/hood scoop. Otherwise I would just go LSA kit on the Grand Sport and notch the cowl and buy a ZR1 replica hood. LSA would be the best option if I could tolerate the hood. wanted to keep this car as stock looking as possible though. In love with the stock Grand Sport appearance.

So you don't think a centri impacts the cars handling what so ever ??? Not challenging you, I honestly don't know and assumed it would throw some things off. Any 1st hand experience with them on a C6?

Turbo6TA

Both the Magnuson Heartbeat and the Edelbrock PD superchargers fit under the stock Base, GS and Z06 hoods with no modification to the motor mounts or engine cradle.

gn4life

yes , they fit but I know the edelbrock e-force has a lot of nay sayers. Not sure if it can make the power I want and was told it was not good for tracking at all. Was wondering if the heartbeat was similar or better since I think they both use the tvs 2300.

MRSUPRA

Easiest way to 700rwhp is ECS (or a@a) supercharger, headers and meth. It will turn your boring GS into a monster.

As for keeping it cool on a road course, that’s another dilemma someone else will have to answer.

Garymorris

A maxed out heartbeat will do 700whp but not sure you'd want to road course it hard. Any 700whp blower car will struggle with heat on a track.

Spaceme1117

1. Both the centri kits (ECS, ProCharger) and the PD blowers (Edelbrock, Magnuson) will drive like stock and have factory reliability as long as you don't go crazy on power.
2. Supposedly the centri kits run cooler than the PD's but both will heat soak. Plan on upgraded cooling to go along with the extra heat you will be generating. The Edelbrock kit includes a block mounted oil cooler similar to the ZR1 cooler.
3. Both kits are capable of 700+ but the centri kits have more potential than the PD's.
4. Not sure on this one as I have never tracked my car. But again, I think this is more a question of heat dissipation capacity.
5. The Magnuson has a larger surface area heat exchanger. Supposedly the IAT sensor is in a more accurate location versus the Edelbrock. But people love to badmouth "the other guys" stuff.
6. As far as I know all these kits will fit under a stock hood. And even if there is rubbing, there are options such as frame spacers or shorter engine mounts.

My current setup is an Edelbrock E-force on a 2011 GS, 6-speed manual. I added a number of upgrades mainly for cooling. Cordes larger coolant reservoir, large Edelbrock heat exchanger, phenolic spacers between the heads and supercharger unit, Monster LT1-S twin disc clutch, Hinson short motor mounts, Kooks ZR1 headers, Aeroforce gauge with wideband AFR, and dyno tuned. I am at 600 hp at the crank, 520 to the wheels. I also added a BAP and fuel pump wiring harness.

If I were to do it again, I would likely go with the Magnuson as it definitely looks better under the hood. But I have no regrets on the E-force.

Edit: Forgot to add that when I did the E-force install, I also upgraded to a DeWitts radiator. Excellent upgrade especially for boosted applications.

old motorhead

If you use all 700 hp on any kind of open road course, you'll have heat problems....no matter the blower choice. That's 150 hp north of ZR1 territory and it has coolers all over it.

A pulley swap on a Heartbeat is a 5 minute job. A tune for a 750 hp Heartbeat will be just fine at 600 hp. Just swap pulleys if you know you're going to be under full boost for long periods of time. 600 hp on a road course would be a hoot for sure. If you got serious, and had a bottomless wallet, I'm sure you could rig it to live at higher levels. The Heartbeat is good at cooling down quick after getting out of boost. I made three dyno runs on mine in the span of two minutes. IIRC, the last run was 15 hp less than the first. That's not bad. That was at 630ish rwhp on a Mustang dyno. 9.5psi with mild cam and bolt ons. Also, the air/coolant heat exchanger doesn't block near the air flow that the big air/air h/e's do. With a Dewitts radiator, mine could idle in 95 degree heat with the a/c blowing cold for long periods of time. Coolant temps would get over 200, but nowhere near the point where the a/c compressor shuts off.

Flex fuel is a must in my view if you want much more than 650 with a TVS blower. Meth helps a little, but it's not worth the risk and hassle in my view. You get the added octane, but very little cooling.

You'll wear everything out around the blower before you have trouble with the blower. I did run a TVS2300 to failure, but it took over 250K miles. I'm pretty sure the only maintenance on that blower was one oil change.

Unreal

A trackable 700rwhp blower setup, either PD or centri will cost far more than a zr1. Probably looking at $20k in mods to get there, if you are doing most of the work yourself.

D-Dub2013

I have had both PDs and Centri's and much rather street drive a centri blower. At cruising RPMs when not in boost it will drive like stock. You won't notice the extra weight in one corner while driving. Although I did adjust my front passenger side lower bolt a bit so it sat level. No big deal there. PDs definitely heat soak worse that centri's, but 700hp cars of any kind get hot. The factory cooling system just isn't adequate to keep up, especially on a track. I would plan on upgrading it as well no matter which you go with. PD systems generally cost more and make less power too.

Huskerman

A&A Ti 3.8 pulley Centri set up with LT headers and x pipe with Meth injection will get you over 600 rwhp on 91 octane with a stock LS3 engine. Stock Radiator and clutch...... Tracking it will require some major cooling inputs..... Cam and Corn and a clutch probably to get up in the 700 club....

Andy@A&ACorvette

I'm working on a supplementary radiator setup for our systems. It'll be a cooler with a fan that "tees" into a heater hose and mounts in the left front fender. We sometimes run oil coolers and trans coolers this way and it works well.
Going back many years, I had an 86 IROC Camaro with a 513-inch big block, Brodix heads, solid roller, etc. I couldn't keep it cool in the summer. I added this extra radiator and it fixed it completely.
I also just bought a batch of big Spal PWM fans and will be designing my own fan shroud. I have some ideas on how to get more air to the fan than some of the present designs.

LilNutSac

I'd never heard that one before. You are aware that the driver isn't centered in the car? Is that okay? Or do you have an identical twin that you go everywhere with?