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Iron or ls2 block

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Old Jun 29, 2021 | 06:35 PM
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Default Iron or ls2 block

I still get to decide between a iron or aluminum block 6.0s will be stroked to 402 and make 1200whp eventually my buddy makes 1200whp on stock ls7 sleeves are aluminum 6.0 block sleeves allot thicker than a stock ls7
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Old Jun 29, 2021 | 09:39 PM
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Punctuation is your friend....


If I were going to build a 1200hp street engine, I’d use a Darton sleeved Aluminum block.

Good luck with your build.
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Old Jun 29, 2021 | 09:42 PM
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Iron. Aluminum motor has a lot more “flex” at those power levels.
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 10:06 AM
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Don't need a stroker for 1200hp unless you have money burning a hole in our pocket. For 1200hp on a budget skip the 6.0 and get a 5.3L, gen 4 5.3L aluminum will be a good bit lighter than the iron block as well.

Originally Posted by playtoy
Iron. Aluminum motor has a lot more “flex” at those power levels.
Siamese bore gen4 aluminum 5.3L are plenty strong, multiple have run 7 sec 1/4's and made a good bit more than 1200hp.
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 08:32 PM
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Alreayd ordered a 402 rotating assembly for 1100-1200whp it’s either a Gen 4 6.0 like a ls2 or a iron ly6 6.0 I just want something I can beat on for a year on the street
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Old Jul 9, 2021 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 08zr1
Alreayd ordered a 402 rotating assembly for 1100-1200whp it’s either a Gen 4 6.0 like a ls2 or a iron ly6 6.0 I just want something I can beat on for a year on the street
LS2 will certainly handle it especially for only a year and be a good bit lighter. Most of the stock block stroker setups need to be gone through anyways after a year or more of abuse, they are rougher on the piston skirt.
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Old Jul 10, 2021 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by skydaman
Siamese bore gen4 aluminum 5.3L are plenty strong, multiple have run 7 sec 1/4's and made a good bit more than 1200hp.
Not saying it can’t be done. Been there done that got the t-shirt. Im just saying for longevity I would not use a factory made aluminum block at those power levels.
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by playtoy
Not saying it can’t be done. Been there done that got the t-shirt. Im just saying for longevity I would not use a factory made aluminum block at those power levels.
He did say for only a year. But still some iron blocks have more problems than the aluminum ones, between thin cylinder walls and the non siamese bore iron blocks have been known to crack between the cylinders. Depends on blower vs turbos as well, seem a lot more main bearing wear from a blower yanking the crank snout around.
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 10:43 AM
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It’ll be a LY6 or ls2 I think are my options with a f1x if I do go this route
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 11:26 PM
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I did this a few times with Darton Sleeved AL blocks 402/408 and 427. Worked well for me for a-1200long while, but not for a lot of others that I know of. So its hit and miss. ANYONE telling you 11-1200 rwhp cars on stock blocks are unicorns. I've herd it all seen it all and its all BS. I'm just telling you the truth. Can it be done sure. Is is smart if you want to enjoy your car any? NO! I do love the Dart AL SHP blocks but pricey, but if you want reliability its my first choice. Now if your going to harp on budget then you can do all the stock AL blocks you want and lets compare your reliably. But hell what do I know only been doing this **** for ever and I beat on my car regularly so if you don't beat on it much then you might skate by on a stock small CI blocks. GL just my .02 of TRUTH.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 09:59 AM
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Always allot of variables and I appreciate your input but motortrend them selfs have done 1950hp on a four bolt my buddy has a lq9 408 with over 20k miles and he’s at 1300+whp with a rear mount turbo. If it last 20k miles I’m happy
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 10:10 AM
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I'm no expert but would go iron. I understand aluminum flexes something like 3x as much which puts huge stress on everything else. The irons blocks were way overengineered to go 100's of thousands of miles in commercial vehicles which are beat on every day - they are tough.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by GX427
Always allot of variables and I appreciate your input but motortrend them selfs have done 1950hp on a four bolt my buddy has a lq9 408 with over 20k miles and he’s at 1300+whp with a rear mount turbo. If it last 20k miles I’m happy
Is that engine dyno? If so matches up with the relatively realistic limit of 1400-1500whp from a stock block that a few have reached running deep in the 7's. I agree stock block has easily held 30+PSI from a GTX55 94mm.

Originally Posted by inspector12
I did this a few times with Darton Sleeved AL blocks 402/408 and 427. Worked well for me for a-1200long while, but not for a lot of others that I know of. So its hit and miss. ANYONE telling you 11-1200 rwhp cars on stock blocks are unicorns. I've herd it all seen it all and its all BS. I'm just telling you the truth. Can it be done sure. Is is smart if you want to enjoy your car any? NO! I do love the Dart AL SHP blocks but pricey, but if you want reliability its my first choice. Now if your going to harp on budget then you can do all the stock AL blocks you want and lets compare your reliably. But hell what do I know only been doing this **** for ever and I beat on my car regularly so if you don't beat on it much then you might skate by on a stock small CI blocks. GL just my .02 of TRUTH.
I tune multiple cars running in the 8's for years with stock blocks, unicorns in the wild Same cars cruised for thousands of street miles.

The real truth is, it all breaks. I've seen DART, RHS, LSX blocks give up smoke just as easily as a stock one, spending more doesn't make you immune to detonation and other issues. I've seen a brand new pair of Frankenstein heads give up smoke on the first pass, racing will find the weak point in anything. To me its simple, determine your budget and have fun at that level because having to worry about breaking stuff because you spent too much sucks.



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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by acroy
I'm no expert but would go iron. I understand aluminum flexes something like 3x as much which puts huge stress on everything else. The irons blocks were way overengineered to go 100's of thousands of miles in commercial vehicles which are beat on every day - they are tough.
If they were built the same that may be correct, but as previously mentioned the aluminum blocks have substantially more material between the bores. Iron blocks will work, with a weight penalty just depends if that's worth it to you or not. Basically talking a tenth due to weight alone.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 02:31 PM
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I’m getting to a point I might just throw a stock ls7 in reliability and California bullshit laws are just getting worse
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by GX427
I’m getting to a point I might just throw a stock ls7 in reliability and California bullshit laws are just getting worse
Ohh man, I'd rather move!
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Old Aug 3, 2021 | 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by skydaman
Is that engine dyno? If so matches up with the relatively realistic limit of 1400-1500whp from a stock block that a few have reached running deep in the 7's. I agree stock block has easily held 30+PSI from a GTX55 94mm.



I tune multiple cars running in the 8's for years with stock blocks, unicorns in the wild Same cars cruised for thousands of street miles.

The real truth is, it all breaks. I've seen DART, RHS, LSX blocks give up smoke just as easily as a stock one, spending more doesn't make you immune to detonation and other issues. I've seen a brand new pair of Frankenstein heads give up smoke on the first pass, racing will find the weak point in anything. To me its simple, determine your budget and have fun at that level because having to worry about breaking stuff because you spent too much sucks.
Well just like you I've built a lot of cars and the over all fact is that there are WAY more that break than live at those levels for any length of time. I call them unicorns cause for every one you find that lives, I can find 20 that didn't lol. And like I said I've made huge power on 4 bolts but I won't ever recommend it for someone else. Especially if they are paying a shop or someone else to do the work. If they are a DIY then they know who's doing the work. Same as I have done for years. So I never said it can't be done but its just not common for them to live long and prosper like spock said lol! GL with what every yall do guys.
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Old Aug 3, 2021 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by inspector12
Well just like you I've built a lot of cars and the over all fact is that there are WAY more that break than live at those levels for any length of time. I call them unicorns cause for every one you find that lives, I can find 20 that didn't lol. And like I said I've made huge power on 4 bolts but I won't ever recommend it for someone else. Especially if they are paying a shop or someone else to do the work. If they are a DIY then they know who's doing the work. Same as I have done for years. So I never said it can't be done but its just not common for them to live long and prosper like spock said lol! GL with what every yall do guys.
I do see a lot of people get greedy with them and they eventually give up smoke, but the whole engine is less than a set of LS7 rods which is the beauty of it. I agree if you are paying big $$ shop rates skip the stock block junkyard stuff, but its enjoyable for the guys that want to get dirty, crush beer in the garage, and go fast without spending a ton of money.
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Old Aug 22, 2021 | 08:04 PM
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what's the theoretical "reliable" limit of an LS2 block when shoving all the boost through it?
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Old Aug 23, 2021 | 09:05 PM
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My properly built engine using an LS2 block is still running perfect after 7 seasons. A few at 780 rwhp and 14 lbs boost, and about 5 summers at 1000 rwhp and almost 20 lbs boost. When properly tuned and maintained they can last very well.
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