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Looking to upgraded fuel system. Opinions on drawing?
planning on eliminating the stock fuel line and system all together. running a line from passenger tank to driver tank to bridge them, then running a 4303 from the driver tank to the rails.
trying to stay with one pump
have considered running the 4303 on a hobbs switch with my a1000 in tank but I’d rather do one pump and call it a day
Looking to upgraded fuel system. Opinions on drawing?
planning on eliminating the stock fuel line and system all together. running a line from passenger tank to driver tank to bridge them, then running a 4303 from the driver tank to the rails.
trying to stay with one pump
have considered running the 4303 on a hobbs switch with my a1000 in tank but I’d rather do one pump and call it a day
goal is 1000whp on e85
I run that exact set up and on c16.im 1120rwhp and the system starts to run out of fuel around 6700 rpm.Magnafuel told me i would have to switch over to the pro race pump to get more fuel delivery but that pump is race only and cant be driven on the street.
Only issue I see with a system like that is gas gauge expects one tank to drain before the other. So may have issues unless you find a way to deal with that. I think someone made a custom one off box to do that, but never think it made it to production. As long you are ok with no gas gauge. Otherwise just run a fore system and be done.
Only issue I see with a system like that is gas gauge expects one tank to drain before the other. So may have issues unless you find a way to deal with that. I think someone made a custom one off box to do that, but never think it made it to production. As long you are ok with no gas gauge. Otherwise just run a fore system and be done.
So my fuel system is setup exactly like this with the exception of connecting the two tanks together. I did it the correct way using the regulator block offs in both tanks. Gas gauge works perfect.
So my fuel system is setup exactly like this with the exception of connecting the two tanks together. I did it the correct way using the regulator block offs in both tanks. Gas gauge works perfect.
As it should, because one tank will drain, then the other. If you connect the two tanks together, they go down at the same rate, and flag a error on the fuel system, which throws a CE light and causes gauge to goto zero.
Mine is similar but Magnafuel recommends a -12 feed to the pump(YES I KNOW THE INLET IS -8) and then a -10 from the outlet to to the Y, That is what I have and then -6s back to the regulator off the front of the rails. And a -8 back to the tank. Zero fuel issues. My factory pump feeds into a T before the Y and there is a check valve to ensure when the Magnafuel is not on that the factory pump is not back filling the tank. I usually manually trigger the Magnafuel but if I forget a Hobbs switch will trigger it and if that fails, it has a backup AFR trigger. Spent wayyyy too much on my long block to burn it up. To be clear- all the stock stuff is still in place.
To add. My main reason for doing this is cost and ease of replacement. The FORE fails and you are screwed. My in tank fails and I can flip a switch and run the Magnafuel which is plenty to support 1500 wheel on its own. IF the Magnafuel fails it takes 25 minutes to swap it and thats with 2 beers. Screw the in tank crap.
I run that exact set up and on c16.im 1120rwhp and the system starts to run out of fuel around 6700 rpm.Magnafuel told me i would have to switch over to the pro race pump to get more fuel delivery but that pump is race only and cant be driven on the street.
Feed the pump with a -12 and make sure its getting at least 14 volts. My car makes well over your number on E85 and has no issues. You will not run out of fuel if the 4303 is setup correctly. Also make sure your tank is vented properly as the pump will create negative pressure and the factory vent cannot allow enough air into the tank to make up for the outflow. Worst cast, add a BAP to the system and set it for 18 volts when the Magnafuel is triggered. The pumps want and need the voltage. It does not hurt them one bit.
I ran a 4303 and got about 2-3000 miles of street miles on their brushed pumps. I hope it does better for you. I have since gone with the Holley VR2 brushless pump which flows twice as much at 14v. I was up to about 1500 before I had to add a 18v booster
I ran a 4303 and got about 2-3000 miles of street miles on their brushed pumps. I hope it does better for you. I have since gone with the Holley VR2 brushless pump which flows twice as much at 14v. I was up to about 1500 before I had to add a 18v booster
Most of the Drag Week / Rocky Mountain Race Week folks have huge success with the 4303 if it is not starved for fuel- IT is continuous duty rated as well. The inlet size and constant voltage are the key to making one live, They will support 1500 wheel with no issue and are cheap. The brushless pumps are excellent too. I can buy 5 4303's for the cost of the Holley pump. And why would you need a pump that is capable of 4000 HP? I am all about overkill but damn.
Most of the Drag Week / Rocky Mountain Race Week folks have huge success with the 4303 if it is not starved for fuel- IT is continuous duty rated as well. The inlet size and constant voltage are the key to making one live, They will support 1500 wheel with no issue and are cheap. The brushless pumps are excellent too. I can buy 5 4303's for the cost of the Holley pump. And why would you need a pump that is capable of 4000 HP? I am all about overkill but damn.
It sounds like a lot of pump, OMG 4000hp which is nonsense marketing because almost nobody makes 4000hp NA, when you get into the details of forced induction applications and higher fuel pressures the supported HP drops fast. In real life that pump on a car running big boost on E85 may only support 1800-1900whp. I've seen guys take that pump out and replace it with an Aeromotive 10GPM which is cheaper, cleaner install, and flows more. I always like a big single brushless pump over pretty much any other fuel pump setup.
Mine is similar but Magnafuel recommends a -12 feed to the pump(YES I KNOW THE INLET IS -8) and then a -10 from the outlet to to the Y, That is what I have and then -6s back to the regulator off the front of the rails. And a -8 back to the tank. Zero fuel issues. My factory pump feeds into a T before the Y and there is a check valve to ensure when the Magnafuel is not on that the factory pump is not back filling the tank. I usually manually trigger the Magnafuel but if I forget a Hobbs switch will trigger it and if that fails, it has a backup AFR trigger. Spent wayyyy too much on my long block to burn it up. To be clear- all the stock stuff is still in place.
Personally my setup uses a AEM Failsafe wideband but there are multiple options out there. I just already had the AEM and you can program it to do many things like activate a timing retard too if the AFR goes above a certain level (trigger a LNC 2000) is the easiest way to pull timing and safe the engine.
. Made a few for some single fuel tank setups, etc.
Fuel system?
