Good Evening,

I have a 2006 Vette Base \ Procharger (8lbs of boost) \ Meth injected. My "engine breathing" is as follows: The driver side valve cover with the pushed in PCV valve is blocked off, Passenger valve cover has a tube running to under the car, the intake has a tube running underneath as well. I know there's a lot of opinions surrounding this. I do see some oil smoke under boost, the car does have 100K miles. It's very possible i just have some ring wear, but i thought i would ask you guys if adding a oil fill breather would help.

 

Have you been running with this setup and the smoking just started or is this first use? When you say the passenger valve cover has a tube running under the car, where does it lead to? About the tube to the intake, you mean near the air filter? Or do you mean the port behind the throttle body? Where does that hose lead to? If you had a catch can, I'd say you might just need to empty it.

 

I've had this setup for some time, and it's always had a little smoke under boost. Just getting around to addressing it. The tube from the passenger side valve cover It just vents to the outside world. And yes it's the port behind the throttle body, which also just vents to the outside world under the car next to the other hose.. The port on the throttle body is capped off.

 

I'd do a compression test and, depending on those results, a leak down test before trying to vent more.

 

Thats what i'm thinking too. I'll have to go rent one, i'll try and report back this weekend what i find. Should i be around the 150psi mark?

 

I think around 185 is ideal

 

You need a fully functioning PCV system in every wet sump application which can provide approx 0.5"Hg to 1.5"HG (up to 3" Hg is okay) During ALL Times: Cruise, idle, and WOT.

This is accomplished by using a factory PCV system. The only difference is for forced induction cars you will want to use a Toyota Supra Twin Turbo PCV valve In-line with the OEM Chevrolet PCV valve (or eliminate the OEM chevy pcv check valve) because the Chevrolet pcv valve from N/A Engines are going to leak boost into the crank case.

Here is a diagram showing the correct OEM config for PCV at wide open throttle



The pressure drop inside crankcase during WOT Is what keeps the oil inside the engine during WOT. Without PCV at WOT the engine will blow oil out, through every oil seal, front main, rear main, valve covers, etc... are all pressurized when there is no PCV and will begin to leak oil after significant mileage.
PCV pressure drop at wot is required to reduce piston-ring blow by. Reduced pressure inside the crankcase will reduce the blow-by of the piston and reduce oil smoke blowing out of the crankcase and suction out residual blow by gasses so they do not interact with and dilute engine oil.

For turbo engines (forced induction) you simply attach the PCV crankcase "fresh air tube" to the intake pipe between filter and turbo as I have done here



If you search the internet you will find many LS1 intake manifold owners and many Truck engine owners who claim that the 'factory pcv valve' or 'OEM baffle design" or "LS1 intake" have poor PCV characteristics which cause oil related aspiration issues. This is a MYTH perpetuated by people who do not understand how to measure the performance of their PCV systems and have unintentionally disabled or bypassed or otherwise reduced or eliminated their PCV systems by installing items such as catch cans or aftermarket air filters without measuring the crankcase pressure and correcting for those modifications.

Every performance vehicle needs crankcase pressure monitoring to be successful with modifications to power output. You must measure crankcase pressure just like you measure intake manifold pressure- using a 2-bar map sensor or a gauge which can read inches of water near -2 to 2psi ranges (high resolution around +/- 3psi). Aftermarket ECU Have 0-5v inputs for map sensors. If you are using OEM computer then I recommend arduino read analog voltage from a 2-bar map sensor as a $30 logger for the crankcase.