Hello,

I'm on the edge of buying a Turbo Technology twinturbo set for my 2006 A6 LS2. It is a completely stock engine and I would like to hear your opinions before pulling the trigger. My goal is 600-650rwhp right now, but I bet it will rise from year to year.
What difficulties am I facing and what should I consider? By the way it is a weekend-driven car, appr. 4-5000 miles a year with conservative driving. I may try some amateur drag racing, but it will be used for some fun on the streets most of the time.

 

The LS2 wouldn't be concerned with that power level, i'll take that to 800-875whp no problem, i'm not familiar with the A6 though.

 

Use / New AA Blower Kit
4000$ / 7000$

/end

 

As mentioned above, the A&A kit is the easiest and cheaper way to get to your power goal. But if you have your heart set on the TTi kit, I can tell you that even from the very beginning, those kits were very good for us. Their current kit configuration reflects the solutions to lots of growing pains we found early on. Plan on a LOT of installation time with any proper TT kit compared to a centrifugal. I would order a ball bearing turbo with 3" downpipes and ceramic coating right from the start.

Plan on switching from the LS2 MAF to an LS3 card style element that can be installed in a saddle on the tube between the intercooler and throttle. The LS3 sensor is far more stable and will have more measurement range.

For fueling, you'll probably want to start with a set of Deka 60 injectors and a fuel pump voltage booster at 600rwhp. Once you get serious, you just plan to just jump right to a dual in-tank pump setup with a pair of Ti automotive ethanol friendly pumps. I have my second pump triggered by my boost controller above 4000rpm and 120kPa. -8an feed to a set of billet rails and a 1:1 regulator under hood, with either a dedicated -6an return or use the factory feed line as the return. Fore makes a great complete kit for this.

At 600hp, the LS3/LS7 clutch works ok on street tires. I have the LS9 dual clutch in my car at around 700hp. There are other good streetable options like the McLeod. If you're changing the clutch, you might as well go ahead and put urethane couplers in to replace the factory rubber ones before they fail. This is 10000% easier while the torque tube is already out for the clutch.

You should also make sure your PCV system works in boost. Most kits include a check valve to prevent pressurizing the crankcase from inlet air, but they don't have an alternate path to vent crankcase gases under boost. This should be routed through a separator to the compressor inlets so it's working to keep blowby gases from pressurizing the crankcase at WOT. A vent to atmosphere is not the right solution here. More info in the article I wrote for HOT ROD here: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/bu...mance-engines/

Finally, find a tuner who knows what they are doing. Proper tuning involves more than just spark, injector data, and a MAF curve. You NEED to repopulate the VE model as well as the MAF if you want the engine and trans to both run correctly. Tis takes a little extra time, but makes all the difference in drive quality and safety. I have helped a lot of show owners do this better over the years.

 

Thanks for the answers.
I have a fairly good deal on a TT kit, that's why I would like to choose this route instead of the A&A blower kit, plus it has more room to grow imo.
You just listed the actual TT kit I would like to buy: ball bearing turbos, ceramic coated hot side, LS3 MAF, Deka 60 and BAP.
I have a Z51 package car with the 6l80e trans, trans and engine oil cooler.
So after all is it a drop in set until I'm not pushing more than 600whp? One of my friends said he would change pistons and rods, while also building the trans.

 

That's like 900-1000hp on a stock motor, I don't think it would live long lol

 

LS2 has the same rotating assemble as the LS3, but with thicker sleeves and the obvious smaller bore.
The data is out there of what they can do SBE , either way, neither motor care about 650whp, your limitation will be who's behind the laptop

 

Your friend sounds like he is a C7 / LT1 guy. 600 wheel is the limit on a SBE LT1 because the piston rings become the weak link.

The LS2/3 is a solid soldier when it comes to boost....

I am with the others though, I would just do a nice blower setup. You're right there is more room to grow with a TT setup, but is that your goals? Turbo setups have a lot of moving parts that get complicated.

 

Room to grow? You can go from 700whp to 1100 whp with a single pulley change.

Your idea seem to be made no mather what anyone says because "its a deal" and its ok but dealing with engine compartment heat, exhaust leak, oil return, extra piping, everything become so compact (except if you go low mount or fender mount) that just make no sence if you dont shoot for something over 1100whp...

 

I have a TTiX on an LS3. If 600-650 is your target, don't bother and go with a centri instead. Space constraints, heat, ease of install are all bigger factors than you'd think, plus a blower install is easily reversible if you decide to sell stock or wreck the car and need to pull the kit. Once your target is 900 wheel, I think there is a good case for twins.

 

Heat is a real pita and shouldn't be overlooked as just a small issue to be worked out later imo, especially if you want to actually drive the car on the street.

 

It is a low mount TT kit, the turbos are positioned where the factory cats originally are. I live in Europe so buying a blower kit from the USA is nearly double the original price. This TT kit is around $4k with BAP, injectors, everything except the LS3 MAF.
I see the points you guys mentioned and I agree with you. You are right, but that's only because unfortunately a blower kit is not an option for me. It is twinturbo or nothing, because TT/blower kits are extremely hard to find in the EU.

 

I would like a blower much better, but I am in Europe, and with taxes, shipping etc a full kit would be well over 10k. This TT kit is less than half of that. So it's whether I buy this TT kit or I don't put anything on the car. That is the reason I am asking, to know if it is worth the extra hassle.

 

I say go for it. If it was twins or nothing for me I’d go turbo all day.

Definitely take the heat management issue seriously, it can make driving the car not very fun at all (coolant temps etc)

 

If your heart is dead set on a turbo, I would sell your C6 go with a different car that is more turbo mod friendly. As already stated, there is going to be a lot more install work, heat, cost, etc for a power level that is easily obtainable with a roots or centrifugal S/C. It's a tried-and-true combo with the C6 platform. I came from the Toyota Supra world and currently have a Duramax, so I am a big fan of turbos. Unfortunately, the C6 really isn't a good platform for a turbo build.

 

Twins have MAJOR advantages over a sc set-up.
Zero belt slippage.
Zero pully changes.
Zero re-callibrations after pully changes.
TT = Cortex = Boost by gear, rpm wheel speed etc etc.

The C6/LS makes an EXCELLENT platform. Extremely reliable if done correctly. Ie, don't cheap-out nor cut corners.

Do it once ie fuel system, engine upgrades etc and call it a day. Otherwise it will only get unnecessarily costly.

Lastly, whatever your budget is; double it.

 

Which specific parts are privy to heat/stress from a sc vs not compatible with a turbo on a 6???

 

I owned a high horsepower Supra. I know full well how much heat turbos put out even with the hot side ceramic coated. That was with an inline 6 with a single turbo. Running two in a C6 bay or tucked in the fenders is going to get very warm. Just my long tube headers roasted the starter solenoid causing the terminal to break off. I am also not the only person to have had this problem, so I can't imagine having two snails in that engine bay. I guess if you mount them under the car but having turbos down underneath my car on a daily driver is not something I want to do. Not only from a road debris standpoint but also knowing that heat is going to travel up through the body. Once again, it already does with just headers. Sure, you can insulate the floor pan, tunnel, etc but at that point I am back to there are better platforms to turbo. Don't get me wrong. I prefer turbos over s/c by a very wide margin. With that said, I would never turbo a C6. I looked long and hard and most builds that I read through were full of a lot of trial and error, frustration, and high costs. I wanted to go back to turbo. I am also not saying a turbo C6 is not a hella nasty car either, but based on the OPs power goals, turbo is a lot of work and coin vs s/c. It just depends on how bad he wants it. In my opinion, at that power level the juice is nowhere worth the squeeze - just my opinion.

 

Supra and C6 platforms are miles apart.
My TT LS2/6L80e runs so cool in fact, I have inline thermostats to help oil/tranny warm-up prior to entering external coolers.
TONS of successful C6 tt builds out there.
A LOT of this might builds as well and support has been excellent from those I've personally seen.
Reliability isn't cheap no matter what boosted application one runs.
Major auto MFG's run tt vs sc systems. WHY do you think that is?

BTW, if you're headers melted your starter, how is this better by slapping a sc on an LS2, with headers?

 

First the OP already said he no other choice since he is in Europe, so this discussion is mute if he stays C6. But I will respond to your comments.

I have owned both the Supra and C6, so I am pretty familiar on the differences between the two platforms but thanks for that. Regarding headers, it's called Swainstech coating - issue gone for $550 plus shipping. And yes 650 rwhp can be very reliable with a S/C for a hell of a lot less money and headaches than a turbo build. To say otherwise is ludicrous - but you do you. And no, there are actually more V8 performance cars with S/Cs from the factory than turbos. Turbos are primarily used to offset displacement, reduce manufacuring costs, and improved fuel economy by most manufacturers' vs being used primarily as a performance/horsepower adder. But yes, there are turbo-based performance cars, but few V8s. TONs of C6 TT builds out there? Yeah ok.... in my 14 years of C6 ownership they have literally been busting from the seams vs S/C builds.....

If you want to advise a $$$ turbo kit and the associated install headaches vs a S/C for a 650 rwhp then go right ahead. I never would because it's a colossal waste of money at that power level. Now at higher power levels, I could see the benefits to avoid belt slip and the power needed to turn a big blower, but no way at 650 rwhp. I tap out wise one - you win. Go celebrate your Internet victory. But I know you will have to respond to further prove me wrong, so let me have it