Folks-I know I could search through and probably find a lot of this ****, but prefer to see if some of you can help. I have a 2011 Z06 and it has been in the shop way more than home. It is soon to come back and I will make a decision on it's future. Here are a few questions to see what I need to do or get a guided opinion since most of you have dealt with most of these concerns; Keep in mind I have never had a corvette before this one and am used to the CTSV's.

1.) Heads-I am attaching the current heads as this was a N/A build. I am going with PRC 285's as he wanted to get the compression down just a bit as the FED heads are heavily milled. So, -5CC piston now instead of -20 wiseco forged. Compression will sit at 10:7:1. Any one with experience on how these heads will run with V3 TI and getting a 6 rib 3.47" pulley?
2.) This car has ZR-1 rims. Michelin run flats (I despise them and a culprit) 335/25zr20 in rear. 285/30zr19 in front. I can't find a replacement outside of more run flats. I assume I will have to change rim size? I know I will in the rear for any traction, so a 17" drag radial? I have 19" MT drag radials for the rear of my CTSV-maybe they would work as I will have to look at the lug pattern? I put new Toyo tires on CTSV and they spin like hell from a roll, so not impressed with them, but seem to work for many
3.) Ride-Outside of tires the car looks to have been lowered. Any suspension parts that would help smooth it out a bit?
4.) Trans (6060) shifts fine. Can't get it in reverse after it warms up and I think that's a cable issue. It makes a "tree leaf in the HVAC fan noise" when in 2nd or third. Not bad, but anyone? 1st, 4th on and no noise. The noise is very low and have to listen for it
5.) Heat in center, as I know that's normal, but do they make any material to install to reduce?
6.) Any tips on a better ride would be appreciated and I know this is limited info somewhat.

I must really like this car and spending money on it...

Thanks

 

I forgot to mention this engine us Darton sleeved now which prob doesn't matter. Bored to original 427.

 

1) Which fuel? 91-93 octane this pulley would be agressive at that compression ratio, you probably need a meth kit.
2) 17'' wheel and 26'' tire below 800whp, 28'' tire up 800whp
3)You can raise the car with factory leaf spring bolt. https://www.corvetteforum.com/articl...ette-for-free/
4) You dont have cable but a shifter rod. First thing to do is remove the center console and check for proper aligment and if your shifter rod bolt is not loose C5 show in video but same thing on C6 5)https://rpmoutlet.com/product/design...-complete-kit/
6)Its nearly 20 years old car, new shock and aarm bushing help a lot.

 

​​Appreciate the info. It is flex fuel with meth kit. Typically run E85. Car only has 22k miles, so I will start with some adjustments. That and no run flats might do it, but only tire in that rim size was the same run flats.

 

Where are you looking for tires? I see many non-run-flats at tire rack in 335/25/r20

What type of tires are you looking for also?

Cheers,
Kyle

 

Its been over 6 months since it's been in shop, but I just took a quick look on my phone. I am seeing 3 brands, but all are run flats except for continental extreme contacts? Maybe its my zip code that limits me, but i wouldnt think so. I am looking for something that will ride a little better and get at least a little traction.

 

Sorry, I am seeing the issue now, searching for a full set with the 285 fronts included. There is that conti set you mentioned. If I bump up the rears to 345/25/20 this set also seems to be available. I couldnt comment on the fitment though. Best of luck!

 

Appreciate the input. I assume run flats for most due to little sidewall/rim damage. I went by my local tire shop (They match any internet price) and Conti looks to be it. I will do some research on them. Probably look to see if another size could work too. I will be getting some 17"s w/DR's for the rear for pulls here and there.

 

Your having problems with reverse for two reasons. The first is the bolt on the clamp that connects the shifter to the shifter linkage that goes back to the gearbox. (The shifter is two parts, the upper half is what you consider the shifter to be, the second half is the lower box). The box has a shaft in it that connects to this linkage and if it's not torqued properly and secured with Red Loctite it will come loose on you. It is very hard to tell but what's happening is the bolt is letting the clamp loose a tiny bit, just when your trying to get into reverse. The shaft will slip inside the collar that the bolt is tightening. It will only slip at the very edge of it's travel because that is the area where most force takes place. If you mark the shaft and the collar you'll be able to see it slip, right at the end when your reaching for reverse. The same thing happens to first gear as well, it's usually one or the other. As the box wears you'll eventually have this problem even with the bolt and clamp secured, this is due to wear in the box.

You can tighten and secure that bolt and solve your problem, usually for a while but the second issue is that the box portion of your shifter is worn out. Not just yours, they pretty much all are. If you upgrade your box it will eliminate a lot of rattle, slop and vagueness in the shifter. The box is responsible for most of the slop, vibration, rattle, etc. and the shifter not so much.

If you want to address the box I have two different options, fell free to shoot me an email or PM if you have any questions, I'm happy to answer anything I can, this is an easy one and you'll like the way the shifter feels much better afterwards. I hope this helps check one issue off the list.

Here are a couple pics of the box that lives below the shifter and the shaft that connects the (stainless steel) shaft from the box to the linkage.



Linkage with clamp and bolt that likes to loosen up.

Shaft from box fits into linkage, secured with clamp.

Upgraded box.

Shaft from box shown without clamp.

Shaft slippage.

 

Thanks for that detailed response and that helps! That's what makes these forums worth it. I will have this checked while in the shop.