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I've seen several references to the use of needle bearings instead of bushings. I understand how the bearings benefit shaft rotation .... but what about fore/aft motion? Are you sliding metal on metal? Maybe I don't understand the application. Everyone else uses nylon or other high quality plastic.
I've seen several references to the use of needle bearings instead of bushings. I understand how the bearings benefit shaft rotation .... but what about fore/aft motion? Are you sliding metal on metal? Maybe I don't understand the application. Everyone else uses nylon or other high quality plastic.
Your picturing that correctly, the shaft slides on the bearings but is also riding on Polyurethane bushings that I make.
New pricing for the boxes is $145.00
Still includes Two-Day Priority Shipping
Delrin or Polyurethane Torque Tube Bushings
I'm sorry for the increase, I am doing everything possible to keep pricing as low as I can without sacrificing anything. Thank you for understanding, i appreciate everyone's support. Have a great weekend.
Your picturing that correctly, the shaft slides on the bearings but is also riding on Polyurethane bushings that I make.
IMO .... you should be using Garlock style or other low friction bushings vs needle bearings. Needle bearings are not designed to accommodate fore/aft motion.
IMO .... you should be using Garlock style or other low friction bushings vs needle bearings. Needle bearings are not designed to accommodate fore/aft motion.
I understand your point but in this particular application it's working great. The original car I did this modification to was my C5, years before I started making boxes available for sale. Ive pulled that box to inspect it lots of times, the last time was probably about 60k miles on the box. It has no measurable wear on the bearings, shaft or any parts that would signify any negative effects. Everything inside these boxes is overkill really, it doesn't need bearings, theres not enough movement, friction, heat etc to warrant using them, it's just jve setup that works the best and requires the least maintenance.
If you buy one and it wears or stops functioning, starts rattling, gets sloppy or falls out on the ground and you run it over, I'll replace it for the life of your car, period.
My C6 has been in and out of the body shop for months. I finally got it back so I'll be able to wrap up the final details and make this next part available. I'll have it ready this upcoming week if all goes well.
I understand your point but in this particular application it's working great. The original car I did this modification to was my C5, years before I started making boxes available for sale. Ive pulled that box to inspect it lots of times, the last time was probably about 60k miles on the box. It has no measurable wear on the bearings, shaft or any parts that would signify any negative effects. Everything inside these boxes is overkill really, it doesn't need bearings, theres not enough movement, friction, heat etc to warrant using them, it's just jve setup that works the best and requires the least maintenance.
If you buy one and it wears or stops functioning, starts rattling, gets sloppy or falls out on the ground and you run it over, I'll replace it for the life of your car, period.
10-4. Sounds like it works really well and that's what counts.
This is a must do for the C5 6m - I had no idea just how sloppy my shifter was until I put this in. I went with the delrin bushings. NO regrets. My shifter is now tight and snappy, It probably feels better now than when it rolled out the factory - Tom makes a great product and communicates well.
I love hearing that, enjoy my friend!
It's funny you said that actually. I have been experimenting with some brand new boxes, they have never been installed. They are pretty damn tight, in a bad way. They take a lot of force to move, similar to the old shot out boxes that have gunk and dirt inside them, it's a very similar feel. This is one of the reasons I recommend silicone around the top of the box, where the shifter bolts up. Another reason why I use extra seals and do everything possible to keep it sealed up and debris out.
If you look at a brand new box the torque tube bushings are TERRIBLE. They are over sized because they are that crappy rubber, and they are made to be squeezed so hard that's one of the reasons they turn to crap so quickly. I've seen them out of 13k cars that are just totally shot. Delrin Poly or solid, that's the way to go for sure.
It's been hard for me to keep this to myself this long but the time has come. AVAILABLE TODAY, the new 5% Reduction Shifter, yes the top assembly for C5, C6 and C7's.
If your looking for an ultra tight, super smooth shifter that does not require more force than the factory shifter to use, this is it.
All aftermarket Corvette shifters are "short shifters" this means the throw is reduced, from 20-40%. Reducing the throw increases the force required equally, shorter equals harder to move.
Instead of shortening the shifter and making it harder to use, the focus of our 5% Reduction shifter is to create the smoothest, most precise shift action possible. Thru the use of a lifetime lubricated bearing and Teflon friction surfaces our 5% Reduction shifter is everything you want your shifter to be and nothing else.
Sold Separately or with our world renowned shifter box, your driving experience will be smoother and more precise than you ever thought was possible.
That's the pitch, I've been driving on this shifter and a 20% reduction version for just under ten thousand miles. If you want a super smooth shifter that is still short I also have a 20% reduction version. Both use the same design and components and are of course warrantied for life.
WARNING
Round or Symmetrical shift ***** must be used, factory ***** and other ***** such as T-handles are not recommended for use with this shifter. I designed this shifter to be as smooth as humanly possible. One thing I decided to leave out was internal retainers that would keep the shaft from being able to spin.(Like if you were trying to unscrew the shaft). The shaft does not "spin" freely or like a top for example, but it is able to rotate so if you were using a directional **** like a T-handle for example, it may not stay clocked correctly. For this reason only round or symmetrical ***** are recommended.
Shaft is 5\8in. diameter Stainless Steel with a 9/16-18 thread to accommodate most other aftermarket *****.
OPTIONS
With either shifter you can opt for two different heights: one or two inches lower than stock. If you have a custom height request let me know, I am pretty accommodating.
Shifter includes delrin **** of your choice.
PRICING
Shifter of your choice including Delrin **** is $150.00 Shipped in the US.
If you have previously purchased a shifter box or are also buying a shifter box you save $10.00, the price is $285.00 Shipped in the US.
Here are a couple pics, I have anodized the shaft on this prototype, shafts will not be anodized.
The 5% Shifter is great for everyone who does not like the increased force that results from shortening the shifter. All other aftermarket shifters are short , or reduced by 20 to 40%. This makes them that much harder to shift. By only reducing the shifter ratio by 5% it's just like the stock shifter but smooth and precise just like my lower boxes are.
09-04-2018, 10:03 AM
