HPTuners Talk SpinMonster
06-04-2008, 08:36 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '08
HPTuners Talk SpinMonster
Hey can anyone go over some basic adjustments for the 05,06,07
C6 LS2 in HPTunes??
Say adjusting temp settings for Tstat??
Say turning off rear O2s?
Or anything you think we need to learn as noobs.
So we can start learning some of the basic adjustments of HPTunes??
Removing TM?
Mike
For everyones benefit!!!
C6 LS2 in HPTunes??
Say adjusting temp settings for Tstat??
Say turning off rear O2s?
Or anything you think we need to learn as noobs.
So we can start learning some of the basic adjustments of HPTunes??
Removing TM?
Mike
For everyones benefit!!!
Last edited by Braciole; 06-04-2008 at 11:35 PM.
What's the hold up?
06-04-2008, 09:32 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Under DTCc, unchecking these should take care of the rear 02s:
P0137 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0138 HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0140 HO2S Circuit Insufficiency Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0141 HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0157 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0158 HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0160 HO2S Circuit Insufficiency Activity Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0161 HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency below threshold Bank 1
P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency below threshold Bank 2
With a 160 tstat the fan setting is a matter of preference but I like 20%@ 192*, 30% @ 196*, 50% @ 199*, 75% @ 203 and 90% @ 207* and up. Or if you like a little cooler 20% @ 192*, 50% @ 196*, 75* @ 199 and 90% @ 203 and up. I would not raise the percent more than 20-25 @ 192 or the fan may run continuously.
P0137 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0138 HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0140 HO2S Circuit Insufficiency Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0141 HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0157 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0158 HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0160 HO2S Circuit Insufficiency Activity Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0161 HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency below threshold Bank 1
P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency below threshold Bank 2
With a 160 tstat the fan setting is a matter of preference but I like 20%@ 192*, 30% @ 196*, 50% @ 199*, 75% @ 203 and 90% @ 207* and up. Or if you like a little cooler 20% @ 192*, 50% @ 196*, 75* @ 199 and 90% @ 203 and up. I would not raise the percent more than 20-25 @ 192 or the fan may run continuously.
06-04-2008, 10:37 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
You can turn on your fan at a percent via your VCM controls in your scanner at any temperature you like or even with the engine off.
06-04-2008, 11:26 PM
#6
Tech Contributor
I'm not sure why you single me out for this thread. I'm not the best for the job but thanks for the vote of confidence. When first starting out, this is how I proceeded:
Order of operations:
Scale Long term fuel trends to lock non-positive. They dont have to be negative all the time. They just need to lock non-positive or zero.
If you lock positive, it adds more fuel when you go WOT and its unpredictable so it has to be negative or zero.
Next with a wideband, set the PE to 1.13 across the board. If you properly adjsted the LTFT's then it should be close there. Adjust the rpm's where you see dips and peaks. The wideband is input to the HPtuners pro version on pins 1 and 5. Log with the scan tool set to scan for wideband A/f. The LS3's dont seem to show much additional power being a strict 13:1 over say 12.5:1. If you are way too rich, you are likely too far down on the LTFT's. If you lean them out and still lock positive it should be close. Some adjust the LTFT's with the MAF tables and some do it with the injector flow rate table. I would imagine the MAF tables would be better since they also affect air mass calculations.
Spark advance requires a bit of iteration. Add 4 degrees and pull timing after a long drive hitting as many cells under load as you can. Pull timing where you see KR. Add more to the rest by one degree at a time. At the low load cells dont run it much more than where it is stock.
Turn off the Cat overtemp portection since it dumps more fuel.
As for bypassing codes, I didnt bypass any codes for the rear O2's or any other for that matter on my car and a ton of others. I'm not sure why some do that if they dont have to. The rear O2's arent really critical, I just dont know why I dont bypass them and there arent any people running around with rear O2 codes.
Tq management is addressed on the last tab. Input max TQ values where it would allow no reduction.
Modded cars are much more complicated requiring air flow tables and timing changes for over and underspeed conditions to mention a few. Rev limiters shouldnt be messed with unless you have better springs/valve train. Cams hunting for an idle need to have the running airflow table modded as well as timing for speed corrections.
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/ has a forum for questions and answers. Most tuners do pretty much the same things on base cars. There is simply a right and a wrong way to do things. The wrong ways are obvious in that they violate safety in running your car. For example, asking it to run big timing and handicapping the PCM's ability to pull timing is a bad thing. Be careful with burst KR controls and decay. Dont limit the amount of timing the car is able to pull in a knock event.
Order of operations:
Scale Long term fuel trends to lock non-positive. They dont have to be negative all the time. They just need to lock non-positive or zero.
If you lock positive, it adds more fuel when you go WOT and its unpredictable so it has to be negative or zero.
Next with a wideband, set the PE to 1.13 across the board. If you properly adjsted the LTFT's then it should be close there. Adjust the rpm's where you see dips and peaks. The wideband is input to the HPtuners pro version on pins 1 and 5. Log with the scan tool set to scan for wideband A/f. The LS3's dont seem to show much additional power being a strict 13:1 over say 12.5:1. If you are way too rich, you are likely too far down on the LTFT's. If you lean them out and still lock positive it should be close. Some adjust the LTFT's with the MAF tables and some do it with the injector flow rate table. I would imagine the MAF tables would be better since they also affect air mass calculations.
Spark advance requires a bit of iteration. Add 4 degrees and pull timing after a long drive hitting as many cells under load as you can. Pull timing where you see KR. Add more to the rest by one degree at a time. At the low load cells dont run it much more than where it is stock.
Turn off the Cat overtemp portection since it dumps more fuel.
As for bypassing codes, I didnt bypass any codes for the rear O2's or any other for that matter on my car and a ton of others. I'm not sure why some do that if they dont have to. The rear O2's arent really critical, I just dont know why I dont bypass them and there arent any people running around with rear O2 codes.
Tq management is addressed on the last tab. Input max TQ values where it would allow no reduction.
Modded cars are much more complicated requiring air flow tables and timing changes for over and underspeed conditions to mention a few. Rev limiters shouldnt be messed with unless you have better springs/valve train. Cams hunting for an idle need to have the running airflow table modded as well as timing for speed corrections.
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/ has a forum for questions and answers. Most tuners do pretty much the same things on base cars. There is simply a right and a wrong way to do things. The wrong ways are obvious in that they violate safety in running your car. For example, asking it to run big timing and handicapping the PCM's ability to pull timing is a bad thing. Be careful with burst KR controls and decay. Dont limit the amount of timing the car is able to pull in a knock event.
Last edited by SpinMonster; 06-04-2008 at 11:45 PM.
06-05-2008, 08:45 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
Good indepth look at tuning Spin. Might add too that an adjustment in the IAT table would be good particularly for track use where the inlet air temp rises pretty quickly pulling timing with the hood shut. GM has those tables so the guy that uses 87 octane in hot weather for example doesn't end up with engine damage. At 86* timing starts pulling. Doesn't take long to reach 86* even in cool weather with the engine idling in the staging lanes.
I think the reason for bypassing the rear 02s is to eliminate codes for those running no cats. You will get a CEL is you don't address this problem.
I think the reason for bypassing the rear 02s is to eliminate codes for those running no cats. You will get a CEL is you don't address this problem.
06-05-2008, 10:24 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '08
Good indepth look at tuning Spin. Might add too that an adjustment in the IAT table would be good particularly for track use where the inlet air temp rises pretty quickly pulling timing with the hood shut. GM has those tables so the guy that uses 87 octane in hot weather for example doesn't end up with engine damage. At 86* timing starts pulling. Doesn't take long to reach 86* even in cool weather with the engine idling in the staging lanes.
I think the reason for bypassing the rear 02s is to eliminate codes for those running no cats. You will get a CEL is you don't address this problem.
I think the reason for bypassing the rear 02s is to eliminate codes for those running no cats. You will get a CEL is you don't address this problem.
Thanks
Mike
06-05-2008, 11:00 AM
#9
Race Director
Check Engine Light
Spin, is there any trick to distinguish false knock from real knock? I always get KR on launch. I've reduced it but can't eliminate it. I admit I've shortened the decay because on the track it was taking the entire 1/4 mile to get 6 degrees back, that's a loss of a 1/10 over 12 seconds. Thanks
Spin, is there any trick to distinguish false knock from real knock? I always get KR on launch. I've reduced it but can't eliminate it. I admit I've shortened the decay because on the track it was taking the entire 1/4 mile to get 6 degrees back, that's a loss of a 1/10 over 12 seconds. Thanks
06-05-2008, 11:27 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '08
Check Engine Light
Spin, is there any trick to distinguish false knock from real knock? I always get KR on launch. I've reduced it but can't eliminate it. I admit I've shortened the decay because on the track it was taking the entire 1/4 mile to get 6 degrees back, that's a loss of a 1/10 over 12 seconds. Thanks
Spin, is there any trick to distinguish false knock from real knock? I always get KR on launch. I've reduced it but can't eliminate it. I admit I've shortened the decay because on the track it was taking the entire 1/4 mile to get 6 degrees back, that's a loss of a 1/10 over 12 seconds. Thanks
Mike
