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Old Jun 24, 2022 | 05:08 PM
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Default Dyno question.

Quick question guys when doing dyno should I remove halltech killer bee shroud on or off ? And I have 315/35/17 tires on 17s should I change them for 19s ?. 2006 Z.
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Old Jun 24, 2022 | 06:15 PM
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What tires you have on the car should not make any difference in dyno results ... As far as the a Halltech, I don't see that would make much difference either.
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 06:22 AM
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Run it on the dyno like you would run it on the street.
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 04:17 PM
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Number were 553/542 SAE before . Now just changed 102TB and ran on Nitto NT555RII 17s with 20psi and 546/531 STD. I was expecting the same numbers or + 2-3whp but they are lower. Totally forgot to air up the tires. Could be the low air for low numbers?
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 04:20 PM
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Different dyno? Different day/time of year? SAE vs STD conversion factors. Don't race dyno's dude, you'll end up chasing your tail. How does the car drive and does it make you happy? That's the only thing you should be asking. BTW, 2-3 rwhp is NOT something you'd even feel on the street, or see at the track.
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jayZo6
Number were 553/542 SAE before . Now just changed 102TB and ran on Nitto NT555RII 17s with 20psi and 546/531 STD. I was expecting the same numbers or + 2-3whp but they are lower. Totally forgot to air up the tires. Could be the low air for low numbers?
How tight/hard the straps holding the car to the dyno rollers can have a significant effect on dyno numbers.
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Pb82 Ronin
Different dyno? Different day/time of year? SAE vs STD conversion factors. Don't race dyno's dude, you'll end up chasing your tail. How does the car drive and does it make you happy? That's the only thing you should be asking. BTW, 2-3 rwhp is NOT something you'd even feel on the street, or see at the track.
Yes different dyno and last one was about 8-9 months ago . SAE will me more less. I gonna go to drag strip and test it out. I think power is same better response with TB.
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Spaceme1117
How tight/hard the straps holding the car to the dyno rollers can have a significant effect on dyno numbers.
The guy checked it twice they were pretty tight I would say .
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 07:34 PM
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Dyno's are not for bragging rights ... Dyno's are for tuning
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Old Jun 28, 2022 | 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jayZo6
Yes different dyno and last one was about 8-9 months ago . SAE will me more less. I gonna go to drag strip and test it out. I think power is same better response with TB.
Dyno operator nightmare to get consistent repeatable results, that's on the same dyno. Changing dyno's & your setup makes for meaningless numbers, being they are is close as they are is impressive. Set up on the dyno includes, same tires, air pressure & how it's tied down. Different days even with weather correction is a struggle, driveline temps, IAT's etc.

Improved throttle response making the same power should be a quicker car. I define it as HP/sec, two motors making the same power except one accelerates faster. Was doing a sweet little 53 pickup a couple of weeks back with a small cam 5.3L, headers, intake & a 6L80. The final few runs I was adding timing & leaning the AFR's a tad. It was really coming alive as in how it accelerated on the dyno with no real power improvement. Went for a ride with the owner just to data log & make sure the WOT shift points were correct....big smile from him.

The track is going to tell your story, the 102mm TB should be noticeable @ your power level. If you could see the data log of the best power runs on both dyno's you might compare manifold air pressure from the beginning of the run to the end. If the previous smaller TB was a restriction you may see it.

I did not see in your post any mention of baseline runs second dyno. That would have been your new starting point, I would expect an approx. 15rwhp if you were going from a stock TB.....assuming no restriction in front of the TB.

Last edited by CTD; Jun 28, 2022 at 01:54 AM.
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Old Jun 28, 2022 | 02:09 AM
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To drive a wet sump PCV system requires a pressure drop between the air filter and throttle body of approx 0.5" to 1.5" Hg at wide open throttle.

If the air filter is missing or too large that is when the engine will begin to blow oil into the intake manifold, and suddenly people think they need a catch can. When it was really the air filter causing the problem in natural aspiration applications.

Behind the throttle body is the MAP sensor, this is where your information is with respect to throttle body sizing. To properly size a throttle body you compare pre-throttle body with post throttle body MAP sensor pressure- they should nearly identical match. 99KPA in front 98KPA behind, for example.

Both of these issues, throttle body and air filter need adjustment using MAP sensor data. A map sensor between air filter and throttle body measures PCV pressure drop on the crankcase (and incidentally, blow-by and engine health in OEM PCV systems). The map sensor between throttle body and intake manifold (Or in the intake manifold somewhere) measures throttle body restriction when compared to pre-throttle body region.
Cars do not come with MAP sensors between air filter and throttle body so this must be added temporarily for the proper test.

I have a video available of the test if you'd like I will post here
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