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Clutch Pedal Does Not Return to Up Position During Shifts at High Engine RPMs (Inspect Date Code and Replace Clutch Kit) #05-07-31-001 - (Apr 8, 2005)
Clutch Pedal Does Not Return to Up Position During Shifts at High Engine RPMs (Inspect Date Code and Replace Clutch Kit)
2005 Cadillac CTS-V
2005 Chevrolet Corvette, SSR
with Tremec T56 6-Speed Manual Transmission (RPOs M10, M12, MM6)
Condition
Some customers may comment that while shifting at engine speeds greater then 6000 RPMs, the clutch pedal does not return to the up position. As the engine speed decreases, the clutch pedal will return to the up position.
Cause
It is possible that when the engine speed is greater than 6000 RPM and the clutch pedal is depressed, centrifugal loads on the clutch diaphragm spring may be greater than the clutch return load from the diaphragm spring. This force created by RPM would be directionally opposite to the clutch bearing force, causing a near net zero or less than zero return force. As a consequence, the clutch pedal may be stuck at the bottom of travel at the floor. Once the engine speed reduces to less than 6000 RPM, spring return load dominates and the clutch pedal returns to normal function.
Correction
Inspect the clutch date code and replace the clutch kit if built PRIOR to the following date code:
• 4M21A/B/C for CTS-V and SSR
• 4M13A/B/C for Corvette
Remove the transmission to inspect the date code on the clutch pressure plate (4). Refer to the applicable procedure below:
- Corvette -- Clutch Assembly Replacement (SI Document ID #1399532)
- CTS-V -- Clutch Assembly Replacement (CTS-V) (Document ID #1453054)
- SSR -- Clutch Assembly Replacement (SI Document ID #1581481)
Important:
The suspect clutches were built PRIOR to the following date codes:
• 4M21A/B/C for CTS-V and SSR
• 4M13A/B/C for Corvette
The date code is located on the pressure plate cover as shown above.
Replace the clutch kit (see part list below) if the date code on the pressure plate is PRIOR to the following date code:
- 4M21A/B/C for CTS-V and SSR
- 4M13A/B/C for Corvette
The date codes are interpreted as follows:
- The first character is the year.
• 4 = 2004
• 5 = 2005
- The second character is the build month.
Important: The letter J is not used in the month code.
• January = A
• February = B
• March = C
• April = D
• May = E
• June = F
• July = G
• August = H
• September = I
• October = K
• November = L
• December =M
- The third character is the day of the month.
- Important: It is possible that the fourth digit, the shift code, may not be present on the date code. The shift code does not pay a critical part in determining a suspect clutch kit.
The fourth, and final, character is the shift code = A/B/C.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
12581713
Plate Asm, CLU Press & DRVN (W/CVR)
(CTS-V and SSR)
1
24233084
Plate Asm, CLU Press & DRVN (W/CVR)
(Corvette)
1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
We have a few people here saying " no problems", but how many have had their C6 at 6000+ rpm's? It seems that this is a high rpm problem. So, when people respond,it might be helpful to know whether or not you habitually hit the 6000+ rpm mark.
I have not had a problem, but I don't expect to hit high rpm's until I get the car on the track in a few months.
Imagine that, a similar problem on the c5 is carried over to the c6. You'd think they would learn their lesson after a bazillion complaints happened on the 5th gens. This is why I won't buy a six speed.
We have a few people here saying " no problems", but how many have had their C6 at 6000+ rpm's? It seems that this is a high rpm problem. So, when people respond,it might be helpful to know whether or not you habitually hit the 6000+ rpm mark.
I have not had a problem, but I don't expect to hit high rpm's until I get the car on the track in a few months.
So far I have had no problems with the clutch and it has seen over 6000 RPM quite a few times. Last night was the first time I really tested the clutch by power shifting and it performed flawlessly. However it is severely traction limited when power shifting the 1-2 shift.
I have a 12/9 build date.
I wonder if I should mess with it, if it only happened twice in 6 months, and not at all the last few months?
jack up the rear of the car,put it in gear and while you slowly push in the clutch have someone trying to turn the back wheels by hand. as soon as the wheels can be turned see where the clutch petal is and install a stop to prevent the clutch from going any farther towards the floor and over centering the pressure plate. this works with mechanical clutches and should work with a hydraulic one also. give it a try and post what you see.
jack up the rear of the car,put it in gear and while you slowly push in the clutch have someone trying to turn the back wheels by hand. as soon as the wheels can be turned see where the clutch petal is and install a stop to prevent the clutch from going any farther towards the floor and over centering the pressure plate. this works with mechanical clutches and should work with a hydraulic one also. give it a try and post what you see.
I like the idea, in fact, Hoonose and I have both come up with a clutch stop that reduces clutch throw. It not only makes the C6 stick shift more delightful to drive, but as I contend, will probably also cure the "sticking cllutch" problem. I wish some of these sticking clutch people would try it, to see if it works. It is a simple mod to make, a 10 minute solution.
jack up the rear of the car,put it in gear and while you slowly push in the clutch have someone trying to turn the back wheels by hand. as soon as the wheels can be turned see where the clutch petal is and install a stop to prevent the clutch from going any farther towards the floor and over centering the pressure plate. this works with mechanical clutches and should work with a hydraulic one also. give it a try and post what you see.
I've basically done this, and no clutch trouble since. However, it's only been a few weeks. You can see my mod/adjuster on my forum picture page.
this sticking to the floor has been around since the diaphram clutch came out and the over center has been the problem. i see you took my idea how to fix the C-6 door alignment problem. i am taking my fix to the the C-5/C-6 bash and have a meeting with the C-6 engineers to show them the problem and my fix. they need to put a adjustable rubber stop there like they have on the deck lids
Last edited by clem zahrobsky; Apr 18, 2005 at 01:22 AM.
this sticking to the floor has been around since the diaphram clutch came out and the over center has been the problem. i see you took my idea how to fix the C-6 door alignment problem. i am take my fix to the the C-5/C-6 bash and have a meeting with the C-6 engineers to show them the problem and my fix. they need to put a adjustable rubber stop there like they have on the deck lids
Good idea. An adjustable bumper would do the trick.
I am having the problems decribed in your post here. I first got my car in Nov. 2004. I took it out to Raceway Park at English town NJ and ran the car to see what she would do, anyway as I was doing a burn-out I noticed the clutch go down to the floor when my revs were over 6 grand. Some people made comments that this sometimes happens so I though it was normal. This year when the season started I took the car out and again the clutch pedal goes to the floor while doing my burn out. While going down the track I can't say that it went down on me on high RPMs. Should I take this car to the dealer and have them do the clutch? Does my vin fall into the replacement category?