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My power top isn't working properly. Sometimes it stops in the middle of cycling up or down for no apparent reason. Usually, re-pressing the button solves the problem; but last night, it got stuck in the down position. I took the car to my local dealer today, they examined the problem and ordered parts but tell me they won't arrive for some time. Meanwhile I'm afraid to put the top down for fear of not being able to put it back up. Would it be wise to have the dealer disconnect the hydrolics so that I can use the top as a manual until the parts arrive? I've heard rumors that the factory has put a restriction on power tops because of an unusual amount of problems with them. I have also heard that Chevy is considering a recall on them. Any of this true?
I feel sorry for you. You pay a premium price for what ought to be a drop-dead simple mechanism and here you are. Thats why I'm not a big fan of first year cars. Good luck to you.
I feel sorry for you. You pay a premium price for what ought to be a drop-dead simple mechanism and here you are. Thats why I'm not a big fan of first year cars. Good luck to you.
I feel sorry for you. You pay a premium price for what ought to be a drop-dead simple mechanism and here you are. Thats why I'm not a big fan of first year cars. Good luck to you.
It's far from being drop dead simple but at the $1995.00 option price it should work flawlessly without question year after year.
hey guys, just thought i would tell you about my p/t. i too had mine to quit working at 300 miles. got half way up and quit at our favorite resturant with everyone watching! took to dealer after getting it down, manually. dealer says the control module is bad., will be possably a month before can get a new one. so, here we are...... to work your top manually, start by tilting the pass. seat back forward, and feeling up under the top cover to find the manual release cable. pull cable and slowly lift cover up to full height. then look on the pass. side of the top area for a wingnut. remove nut and the carpet insert. there you will find the top pump. on the pump there is a velcro with a allen wrench attatched to it. remove the wrench and open the nut on the front of the pump. then you can raise/lower top a lot easier. it is easier with two people doing it. we leave it down most of the time, but this way if you get caught out in the rain you can put it back up. hope this helps, remember, we're all in this together. mike. bryant@iglou.com
hey guys, just thought i would tell you about my p/t. i too had mine to quit working at 300 miles. got half way up and quit at our favorite resturant with everyone watching! took to dealer after getting it down, manually. dealer says the control module is bad., will be possably a month before can get a new one. so, here we are...... to work your top manually, start by tilting the pass. seat back forward, and feeling up under the top cover to find the manual release cable. pull cable and slowly lift cover up to full height. then look on the pass. side of the top area for a wingnut. remove nut and the carpet insert. there you will find the top pump. on the pump there is a velcro with a allen wrench attatched to it. remove the wrench and open the nut on the front of the pump. then you can raise/lower top a lot easier. it is easier with two people doing it. we leave it down most of the time, but this way if you get caught out in the rain you can put it back up. hope this helps, remember, we're all in this together. mike. bryant@iglou.com
Despite the parts constraints, I'd say a MONTH WAIT to fix an operational issue like this is COMPLETELY UNACCEPTABLE. Someone's regional factory rep needs to make a call to BG and get you one of these overnite'd.
They'd have to drag me out in restraints if they told me I couldn't work my top for a month.
Then again, for the additional price of the vert, plus the additional road noise (top-up) at fast speeds, plus the loss of cargo capacity, I opted for the coupe anyway - so what do I know...
I had the exact same issue. In fact, I'm picking up my car today. The switch failed on mine ... and it took 3wks to get the part in so I used the manual operation.
Thats a shame....probably part of the reason why they were on constraint for so long...not available when I ordered mine. Hopefully the fix won't be long off.
hey guys, just thought i would tell you about my p/t. i too had mine to quit working at 300 miles. got half way up and quit at our favorite resturant with everyone watching! took to dealer after getting it down, manually. dealer says the control module is bad., will be possably a month before can get a new one. so, here we are...... to work your top manually, start by tilting the pass. seat back forward, and feeling up under the top cover to find the manual release cable. pull cable and slowly lift cover up to full height. then look on the pass. side of the top area for a wingnut. remove nut and the carpet insert. there you will find the top pump. on the pump there is a velcro with a allen wrench attatched to it. remove the wrench and open the nut on the front of the pump. then you can raise/lower top a lot easier. it is easier with two people doing it. we leave it down most of the time, but this way if you get caught out in the rain you can put it back up. hope this helps, remember, we're all in this together. mike. bryant@iglou.com
Your concern and good natured attitude are appreciated
Thats a shame....probably part of the reason why they were on constraint for so long...not available when I ordered mine. Hopefully the fix won't be long off.
The FIX? This should not even be a problem TO fix.
Power top on my wife's car jammed half open on the fourth day of ownership... I was able to lower it after much fooling around. Car in shop two days - parts(?) on order. Thanks to all for the information on manually operating the top. This is our third Corvette and the best of the bunch, other than the $2K option that doesn't work...
There is a little switch that the right side of the trunk partition depresses to complete the circuit for the power top.I have found on a few occasions that the partition does not apply enough pressure on the switch to complete the circuit.When lowering the top,the back of the top can contact the partition causing the switch to be in the "open" state The switch verifies that the partition is in the up position to prevent mashing objects from lowering the top.
There is a little switch that the right side of the trunk partition depresses to complete the circuit for the power top.I have found on a few occasions that the partition does not apply enough pressure on the switch to complete the circuit.When lowering the top,the back of the top can contact the partition causing the switch to be in the "open" state The switch verifies that the partition is in the up position to prevent mashing objects from lowering the top.
Interesting. Can this be bypassed? Not sure why I'd want to, just wondering. Maybe increase trunk space, allow room for an amp, etc.
There is a little switch that the right side of the trunk partition depresses to complete the circuit for the power top.I have found on a few occasions that the partition does not apply enough pressure on the switch to complete the circuit.When lowering the top,the back of the top can contact the partition causing the switch to be in the "open" state The switch verifies that the partition is in the up position to prevent mashing objects from lowering the top.
Interesting. Can this be bypassed? Not sure why I'd want to, just wondering. I'm thinking removing the partition might increase trunk space, allow room for an amp, etc.