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I guess I'll stick with the 180 since its a daily driver.
Good idea. You'll get quicker warm up from a start, and give the engine less scope for wild temperature swings. The engine is going to run the temperture it wants to run even if you put a cold thermostat in it. In other words, temperature is a function of how much heat the engine is making, how much water flow there is to transfer it to the radiator, and how much heat the radiator is rejecting. All a cold thermostat will do is surrender any semblence of control over how much water flows, and lets the temperature vary over a wider range as engine load changes. That isn't a good thing.
I run a 160 also anything that helps lower temps for anti-detonation with my high compression C6 11.5:1.....
I was quoting (article on camshaft life and running temperature - water vapor in the oil contributes to cam and lifter failure---so they say) crane cam's position on it but they don't know anything. Water in the oil....lol....scuff marks on pistons...lol. What happens with running as high as 230 degrees when the coolant will not allow a boilover below 270? I don't know. From an honest standpoint if the dyno shows more power with the 160....I'm sold.
also...The crankcase is vented to the atmosphere at all times through the intake...the valvecover vent goes in front of the TB.
Jeeze guys relax, its a discussion and some get a little upset when the opinion differs from what they were sold....relax....both work. Sorry to **** some off with a different opinion.
Last edited by SpinMonster; Jun 4, 2005 at 04:17 AM.
This might be true if we were talking about a small block Chevy running back in the '70s but in this modern era of computer controls and EFI these fears are a bit antiquated to say the least.
I think the biggest misconception about a properly functioning 160 degree t-stat is that it actually holds the motor at 160 degrees, no offense but if there are people in the LS1/LS6/LS2 community that still believe this I think they might be better off skipping the mods and just sticking to the car show circuit.
Actually the opposite was true of the old school....the oil couldn't handle being up in temps for that long and until sythetics ..you had to run at 160-180 for any type of durability.
At idle I think I am at 184 and as low as 172 with the car moving...160 degree.
Actually the opposite was true of the old school....the oil couldn't handle being up in temps for that long and until sythetics ..you had to run at 160-180 for any type of durability.
At idle I think I am at 184 and as low as 172 with the car moving...160 degree.
Unless they've radically changed the way engines are designed - the thermostat controls the temperature at which the coolant in the block is allowed to flow into the radiator. So by that logic, a 180 would allow the coolant in the engine to get to 180 degrees before opening the circuit to the radiator for cooling.
Average operating temps here in Ft. Lauderdale (from my observations) have my coolant temps at a steady 192 degrees. I don't see how having a lower rated thermostat is going to change that, since a 180 is already open (and staying open) at that temp. The coolant gets to 192 (or so) within a couple of minutes of operation. My OIL TEMPS average 225 or so, and take a little longer to get up there than the
The purpose of changing to a lower thermostat in this case would be???
The purpose of changing to a lower thermostat in this case would be???
Rick
See shopdog's post above. The engine is going to run
at the temp it wants and that'll usually be higher
than the thermostat temp. You're right on the money.
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