C6 MN6 not Z51 ,
what do i need.

Can anyone recomend a good set of sticky track tires.
sway bar
cross drilled rotors
and what else. i can't think of anything else.

Any one in ohio going to the track with their vetts, may be we can meet up.

 

Hey Shiv

You'll probably want to flush the stock brake fluid out of there with some quality stuff, I use Motul but there are many others. You'll also want to install and properly bed some good track pads-I've had success with the PF01s, and I've heard great things about the Carbotechs (trying them next weekend) and the Wilwood "H" setup.

Alex posted over in general about toyo releasing some tires in OEM sizes. I did 2 events on the much maligned run flats (which held up better than I expected). I now have some C5 Z06 rear wheels and have mounted some Hoosiers that I will be running at VIR next weekend.

Scroll down and read through the "Autocrossing and Roadracing" section. There is some excellent info and very helpful folks there.

Have fun!

 

All of the above.

I'd skip the crossdrilled rotors. If you really want to change the rotors I'd put the Z51 rotors on there or the non-crossdrilled replacements if they're readily available yet. Napa makes a very inexpensive C5 replacement rotor that works just fine, don't know if they have a C6 Z51 yet. But I'd burn up the ones you have on there first. Especially if it's your first time out anyway. I would consider a DOT 4 brake fluid flush mandatory. Secondary is a good set of performance pads. I've used the Carbotechs with great success.

Unless you're thinking about buying a separate set of wheels and tires for tracking, I'd just burn up what you already have on the car and not worry about tires till you get some track experience.

After you've done a few events, you can think about suspension mods with the Z51 parts.

Take some tape or something to put your number on your car and have fun!

Don't forget a Snell 95 approved helmet.

 

Your non-Z51 rotors are fine, better than the drilled Z51 parts, plus you have all the readily available C5 replacement rotors if you desire (anything from NAPA to the high-bucks stuff). And the NAPA are very good. Whatever you use, stick with solid rotors; drilled rotors are not for track use.

Flush the brake system and install some good, high temp fluid.

Depending on your driving style, the stock pads may be okay for you. Good track pads will make a noticeable difference in both the pedal feel and stopping performance. I have had good luck with the Carbotech XP8 pads. But, you will need to change them after the track event; too noisy for daily driving.

Good sway bars are always nice, if properly matched. You just need to be careful about upsetting the car's balance. I have never driven a non-Z51 C6, so I don't know how it's set up, or what is available. The Z51 parts might work fine, but with different spring rates and shocks, it's hard to say. You would just have to experiment some; see if it results in significant understeer or oversteer. Ask around; try to take advantage of someone else's experimentation before spending the money.

You didn't mention your track experience level, and a lot of this stuff depends on that. In my opinion, unless you have at least a couple of seasons' track experience, you do not want to go to sticky tires; and maybe never, depending on your specific goals. Good street tires communicate very differently than race tires, and the race tires also place different demands on brakes, suspension, driver, etc. I'm probably the contrarian on this topic, but, for a lot of reasons, I think race tires are for race cars. With a car as capable as yours, your driving competence level will mean more than all this stuff combined. If you're just getting started; change the brake fluid and go to the track.

 

I want to do a track day where I get to "drive fast" at one of the road courses around here when the vette club arranges it ...that will probably be the extent of my track time going forward.

I have a Z51 ...

That said - should I have the brake fluid changed out? If so, how do I do this or where can I get it done - any hints?

 

just curious - what are the temp ratings on the stock gm fluid?

 

It is not so much the temp rating of the GM fluid, it is that the GM fluid has been in the system for more than 3 months--sucking up water vapor the whole time. When a fluid is fresh it might not boil until 500dC (e.g. 512dC for ATE super Blue) but a month later it might boil at 450dC and a month after than at 375dC. This can be the difference between making the corner and eating weeds.

Road racers generally flush the whole system at least 4 times a year, and some flush the system every track weekend (some even bleed the brakes after each run).

 

I don't know what temp it's rated for but it isn't high enough. Even first-time-out novices will boil their fluid on some tracks.