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Here is why your hatch button quits (pics)

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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 06:35 PM
  #1  
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From: Bay Shore, NY 11706 MILD2WILD (M2W)
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Default Here is why your hatch button quits (pics)

One day last week the hatch button (the one located on the car just above the plate) quit working after a wash. I found the button was stuck pressed in. The FOB and dash switch still worked fine. After a few days it started working again. From the many threads it appears to be a big problem. Since it's a 5 min job I ordered a replacement from Gene for $15 as compared making 2 trips to the dealer to replace (1st for them to see / order it and the 2nd to replace it) that’s allot of my time and chances for damage.

Listed below is why the switch most likely fails and how you can fix the one you have if you want to save 2 trips to the dealer and are handy.

The switch is located just above the rear license plate and is accessed by removing the passenger side tail light closer to the emblem. The tail light simply removes with one screw (T 15 torx head).

Test
(If you want to test (have your FOB with you) to see if this will fix your non working button. Reach in and remove the harness (pull back retainer towards the rear and lift out harness) from the switch and press it back in. If the hatch opens when you reconnect the harness the switch is stuck in and the procedure below should correct it, if it does not open the hatch you have other issues. The button is a momentary contact switch)


With the harness removed, press the two clips in the picture and the switch drops down.



Remove the rubber cap from the switch by just pealing it back with your fingers. I found dust and sand in mine.



Attach a strong tape (electrical, duct or masking tape) to the button head only and pull out the button. Looking up inside you will see a rubber button that contains the contacts. There is no need to remove this since it’s the button that was stuck on mine most likely due to dust / dirt and water. Clean it well using a small paint brush and reassemble. I would not use any oils or grease since this will attract more dirt. Since the switch has no return spring it relies on the rubber inside button returning the removable button and any dirt offers enough resistance to make the button stick.



I ordered a replacement but could have just cleaned it and would have been fine.


Last edited by Pipedreams; Jun 22, 2005 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 06:40 PM
  #2  
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Good info...thanks for the post!
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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 09:20 PM
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Its amazing that people on this site seem to be smarter then the guys the dealership have.
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 12:20 AM
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It's surprising how much dirt collects in the area behind the tail lights. My frame rails were almost completely covered in dirt and sand and I've never driven on a dirt road. The rear facial must be acting like a dirt scoop.
I thought that maybe this switch problem wouldn't hit me but after looking at the photos of how it's assembled I'm certain it's just a matter of time. Thanks for the photos and tutorial, I think I'll pull it out now and clean/seal it before I have to.
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 10:38 AM
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Thanks for the update. I removed mine this morning and cleaned it. It took less than 15 minutes to complete and it now works fine.

I have read that the new switches are sealed better. Does anyone know if this is the case?
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 10:48 AM
  #6  
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From: Bay Shore, NY 11706 MILD2WILD (M2W)
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Originally Posted by Brett Hunter
Thanks for the update. I removed mine this morning and cleaned it. It took less than 15 minutes to complete and it now works fine.

I have read that the new switches are sealed better. Does anyone know if this is the case?
The replacement I got look the same
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 02:08 PM
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Yes, there is a new part that is better sealed. I installed this new part on mine, the dirt/grime enters right near the tabs that you press to get the part out. On the old part, they are open into the button cavity but on the new part hey are not, their is another plastic piece that seals the area out. If I remember right, it was clear or plastic. If you do replace it, make sure you get the new part or do something to block that path.
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by OttoNP
Yes, there is a new part that is better sealed. I installed this new part on mine....
Does the new (sealed) part have the same partnumber as the one in the photo above?
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 03:29 PM
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Het Guys
Does anyone know if this is the same switch the Vert uses to open the trunk????
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 06:23 PM
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Mine works intermittently-probably dirty like yours. Thanks for the post-I appreciate the detailed instructions! James
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 08:07 AM
  #11  
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Default vote for faq

i vote for this to be included in the faq. excellent info, very good details, explanations, and pics.

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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 08:27 AM
  #12  
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I'm not sure about the part number, maybe pipedreams can tell us if that new part had the inserts. Also, I don't know if the part number changed.
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dshaner1
Its amazing that people on this site seem to be smarter then the guys the dealership have.
Not so amazing to me. I have been to Chevy service too many times and I am amazed that some of them can find the coffee machine in the morning.....

PipeDreams,

Excellent info!! I am impressed with your ability to disassemble this thing.
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