Now that LG's are finally hitting the street which are better on the C6? Regardless of the cost difference and with cats.

 

Since LGs for the C6 are just now making it to the street, how would anyone know?

 

Andy has them and so many people have had orders for 6 months or more so I am quite sure most of them have already installed them.

 

Kooks

 

Both are a great product. LG's are a little more expensive, but worth it in my opinion, for all stainless steal. Also, at least on the C5, the torque curve is more useful with the LG's. I haven't seen a comparison for the C6, but it’s probably comparable, about the same peak numbers with LG providing more power down low.

 

I can't say anything negative about the LG'S because I don't own them. But my Kooks fit like a glove and the performance is outstanding.

 

Kooks raised the price with new cats to 1495 and LG lowered theirs to 1695. Cost is kinda negligable now. My kooks didn't come with o2 extentions an LG does.

Instructions with the Kooks sukd. I wouldn't get the Kooks again but they are here and they will stay.

LG was a bit too busy to return any e-mails to me and they kept a lot of people waiting. They both have issues.

 

Sorry you were unhappy what can we do to change the things you are not happy with

 

As I said on the phone with you, (after telling the story to successive people in the chain of command) you need to re-write the install instructions. I know you have had this complaint before as I read that on the forum but the learning curve is long and you learned from each sale. Still you send out a single sided, typed piece of paper with no pictures. Connect the O2 extensions and place the.....hey what extentions...

I did my install on the weekend overnight (with problems) and when I got through to you on the following monday you said tighten them down from the back to the front which is exactly opposite of what was on the paper in my hand....a few pictures would be nice too and since you know the O2 extentions are needed, include them instead of making people cut wires for 3 hours trying to figure out how long to make them.

I'm still not happy with how close things are near the transmission case but since I have a clutch mod going on again, I will have the pleasure of doing it all again anyway.

A simple line on the instructions saying 22 inches for extensions or whatever it was would have saved some time. and 75 bucks more for extentions??? for each the front and rear.....that should be noted that the kit is incomplete compared to your competition. I don't care about the money so much as the fact that I found out I needed (the not included) extentions AFTER the headers arrived.

I realize I got them early in the game but c'mon you released a better cat 5 days after I bought mine....thanks for the heads up.

I have installed headers before and my FLP's went into my C5 in less than 1/3 the time.

However, for the record: they sound great and there was a greater than expected performance improvement. Good build quality too. That I guess is the real reason to get headers.

There...full honest review.

I would be happy to assist you with input AND PICTURES to make the instructions better. To all forum members: feel free to PM me with any questions if I can help you with any DIY mod. I have even driven 150 miles (NO CHARGE) to help a guy with a clutch install issue.

Problems with installs don't bother me as much as unanticipated problems do. To date the FAST manifold install was the most problem laiden install but I expected it all to be as it was so I enjoyed doing it. I knew what had to be done before I started.

 

PM returned to you.

I sent Lou 2 PM's that to this day were never returned. Hence I bought Kooks. I had no preference but I was looking for availability.

One of the PM's began with a congrats to Lou for his win if you need a timetable. He was busy....no problem.

 

I'm about to order and tackle a cat-back project myself. Any chance you'll drive down to Boca? Free room and board!

Seriously, that's a very generous offer; I might just pm you! Btw, since you gave such a fair review, might I ask a few questions?
1. What type of cat-back do you have?
2. I've been hearing differing opinions about what the headers do for the sound. B&B rep told me their headers would make the car "race car loud", even with the Route 66s (which I plan on getting). Is this true of all headers, or is there something abou the B&B headers in particular that makes this the case? I want some volume, the sound of some muscle, but not "race car loud". That's why I'm going with Route 66s instead of Bullets. Bottom line; what kind of change in sound did you get with the Kooks?
3. Can headers be reasonably without a lift? I've just got a couple of jack stands, but could get ramps if it would make a big difference.
4. Do I need a torque wrench to do the headers? The cat backs?

Sorry to hijack...

 

1 - I've got a GHL

2 - I have no frame of reference, as I did the cat-back & headers at the same time. You hear me coming (as do the frikkin cops, who now follow me around, waiting for me to drop the hammer).

3 - They "can" be done with jackstands and ramps - but if you find a lift you can "borrow" for 3 hours, it will go MUCH EASIER. All the stuff comes out & goes in from the bottom - having the bottom 4 feet off the ground makes things MUCH EASIER. (emphasis on much easier). Having it up in the air, also makes routing the o2 extensions, and triple checking for nothing touching/too close to the exhaust. Plenty of folks here have done them on jackstands - I'm a "comfort mechanic", and would rather not have to crawl and curse in a limited space. Cat backs only can be done on jackstands, but you still have to loosen/drop the H pipe, as they come FORWARD to remove.

4 - Should have a torque wrench for the head bolts - those are the only thing that attaches that way. The exhaust system pipe clamps are "tighten to lock", except where the cats meet the headers, which is visually tightened in an even manner to compress but not crush the doughnut gasket (in the case of the SuperMaxx). No Torque wrench needed for cat back alone.

Corvettemag has a nice step-by-step installation article...

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005...corsa-lead.asp

Get the Elite tunnel plate, and throw that in while you've got everything out - the best $200-$300's you'll spend.

Rick

 

Since there are header questions in your post, it isn't a hi-jack. FL is a bit far so I would have to decline, however if you wish to ride up here, I will be more than happy to help with your project. You don't need a lift for anything with the exhaust.

The headers were done without a lift.

I have the stock catback on this car.

Headers changed tone...lower at idle and higher pitch at full rev. Somewhat louder but not much. I was very surprised at how quiet they were. Pull was awesome.

I will not likely get a catback at the 1300-1400 for the corsa touring. I want my car as quiet as it can be so i dont drop coin on noise without real power. If there is a gain after all my mods I will get one but the minimum would have to be 10rwhp. You never know.....a fully nmodded car may need the additional exhaust flow. For now, it all stealth and many C6's thought I was stock at the red light.

 

Thank You For The Input Spinmaster Call Me So We Can Discuss A Few Things Furhter 631 586 9002

 

Well I won the Sears Point race in July, and I don't get on line when we are out of town.

I check my PMs each time when I get back and even now, and I don't see a PM from you.

Is it possible that you sent it to my son,"Louis" who has a similar screen name, like Louis@LG Motorsports I think.

At any rate, I never got y ou PM. And it would not have expedited anything since we were waiting another 6 weeks for our C6 headers to come in from Borla. (they are in now)

Sorry for the mis-communication

Have fun with your car. you should have a good time with your package.

Thanks

Lou Gigliotti LGM

 

Cartek recommends Kook's, that's good enough for me.

 

Got one of the first sets from cartek back in january. They fit great, plenty of clearence. Instructions aren't necessary, you just use common sence during the install. The whole system was perfect, all the way back to the pipes going over the rear end. They do provide a bracket for the transmission lines running along the side of the block. It moves them away from one of the primary tubes. Other than that it's a straight forward install. I delt with Nick at Kooks, he was very helfull, one Greek to another. Remember every header Co. says there system is the best. They all do the same thing. Some just take a little different route to get there.

andreas g.

 

Greeks really do some things right. I just went to a Greek wedding up in NY....OMG that was unreal. As for straightforward, that is largely dependant on the level of skill of a DIY'er. I suspect you had some extentions supplied and a 2 1/2 inch system. Everything is straightforward if they don't touch your transmission then you do what? One Greek to another huh? I recall being bypassed for a promotion to detective due to that exact motto....eh retired now and I have the best frikin car a guy could want....go Chevy...

BTB

Even if LG's were largely better some vendors, I suspect, would still use Kooks.

I'm happy with the Kooks but I would also be happy with the new lower price of the LG's. As this willnever be a track car, the low TQ curve would benefit me.

If I should get a set of LG's, I would get some before and after DYNOs at, say East Coast Supercharging.....keep the better set and settle this debate once and for all...apples to apples on a modded C6....both with cats installed and no other changes.....2 baseline pulls with my current set-up KOOKS....I change the headers myself and 2 more pulls.....post BOTH dyno sheets and sell the suckie set? Same day dyno, same location (just cant be cartek or LG or any of their chronies). Could use Runnin with he Devil's new location with his brand new dynojet in Mobile Alabama since he is a stanless works only place.

Anyone game?.....loser takes back their headers (just a suggestion...I can do this and sell the losing set at my own loss). Or I will do the drive to another vendor if they want to supply the 4 dyno pulls in the name of entertainment.

I would like input on the concensus as to what a win is. In drag racing which is how 90% of the people judge these cars (not me) low-end TQ is irrelevant since the 1320 doesn't really get the car running low in RPM but for street use it is an issue.

Also, how much power is a win and where should it occur in the powerband? 2-3 inHP in my opinion is a waste of time.....not just peak power too.

This was just stirred up by that fine post that noted what one particular vendor (i have never used) said about which product they use. I have never bought anything from LG or Cartek.

Any input/ideas?

I have some predictions:

1-I will either not be welcome in TEXAS or the Northeast.
2-'My test is flawed' --- the losing party.
3-There will be no loser since both will not make it through the '2-3hp aint worth it' clause.
4-Would the loser take back their headers for a refund?

Whats in it for me:
I get the fater car and some dynos.
I get to tell the world the answer to the original question made for this thread.

 

I will do one better. My car has no mods in the engine department none. I would buy both headers hope I would get a deal George or Lou and if we can get a sponsor or the dyno pulls here in South Florida we can base dyno the car (Automatic Z-51) no tunes and try them both. Kooks or LG can make there own interpertation as well as members here. Low end top end whatever you want to claim victory own. We can do the same on Intakes Jim Hall and Lingenfelter if that is something people want as well I will buy both and losing one I will put up for sale. The debate will be with a tune or without for the intake.

Remember my car is complete stock so try baseline dyno, and before and afters. Maybe a Breathless or Mike Norris or anyone else down here with a dyno and do the labor because they will get a lot of looks with there name on the Dyno sheets.

 

That unfortunately, is not a good thing as the air-in and air -out requirements are different for a modded car and the loser will then say that their headers do more for a car that needs it....maybe both of us?

Another issue is the tune. The engine must be at least running the same A/F ratio as the addition of headers has in my experience richened things up. In both cases the fuel curves must be the same.

Just looking for input.